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    tuning recurve....

    well i have only tuned several longbows and recurves but have recently started tunning my 49Lb limbs and am getting myself all confused.

    im shooting 3555 trads at 30" with 5" shield cuts and 230gr up front and this setup was shooting like darts out of the same bow with 43lb limbs

    anyways i swtiched limbs and figured some tunning would follow but it seems my thoughts are conflicting.

    43lb limbs and this arrow shot right were i looked but with the 49lb limbs poi is like 5" left and 5"high at 10yards but pretty close to point of aiming at 20yards.

    i would guess that the original arrow build would be under spined for the heavier limbs but i see a high left fishtail when i shoot and the poi has changed at 10yards wouldnt that mean over spined?

    some help would be greatly appreciated oh and dropping point weight by 25grs moved point of impact at 10yards 8 " low and 3" right


    thanks

    #2
    It's my understanding that left fishtail means weak spined for a right handed shooter. Maybe someone more experienced can confirm?
    Also, when I bare shaft tune, hitting left of my fletched shafts means stiff.

    Another thing is, shouldn't spine problems be worse at 20 yards then 10? At least when considering point of impact. Hopefully someone will post something helpful
    Last edited by bduran; 07-21-2009, 09:48 PM.

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      #3

      I use this method and when done my bow shoots just as good with 2" as it does with 4" or 5". There are several good tuning sites but they are basically like this one.

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        #4
        John - it is fishtailing and not porpoising right? If it is fishtail - Is your nock up or down of the point when it strikes the target?

        Is it the same riser and heavier limbs? Need more info to help! Provide all you can - also is there more noise from the bow than before?

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          #5
          You may need to twist your string a little to raise your fistmele. If an arrow stays on the string a little to long it will shoot left, giving you a false stiff spine shot.

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            #6
            sorry ive been gone for a bit but here i am.... when useing the bare shaft method do i need to hold the bow vertically to read the results right or can i cant like i normally shoot

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              #7
              Shoot you normal form.Being right handed the shaft being to stiff will go left and to weak will go right nock point to higharrow will go low and a low nockpoint to low the arrow will go high.

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                #8
                Going a little stiffer with a tad more tip weight worked for me... I moved to a 5575 and had good results... Like you I was shooting in the low 40's and I shoot a little over 50# @ 30.5 now ... Good luck

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                  #9
                  tradman-okc on the 49lb limbs im thinking i might have to bump to the 5575's but would like to stay with the arrows i have and just adjust tip weight for the different limbs but dont know.... i havent been able to make it out where i can shoot so ive been shooting in my apartment at like 8 yards.... so i cant really get a good idea bare shafting like at say 20 yards.

                  let me explain what i have tried so far... like i said i would like to keep the 3555's but after this am going to tune the 56lb limbs so i think i have to get the 5575's for them anyways. so, i went from full length trad 3555's with a total of 230gr tip weight to 160gr tip weight and at 8 yards there tight but the bareshaft has a slight highright nock at target... can you tell whether is over or underspined or nock high/low by the nock in relation to the point of impact?

                  also is anyone out there shooting a 3555 with only 160gr tip weight? ive never shot this low of tip weight and the bow while a small bit louder is shooting good just feels different... just trying to get what i can done here at the apt

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                    #10
                    The 3555' should shoot great I can use them out of my 60# ACS-CX and they fly great - 125, 145, 200 or 250 grain points it doesn't seem to matter.

                    Just some other info you can use.. ( From Bob Morrison's website)

                    Nock height is a very personal issue relating to your release, shaft size and type(carbons, cedars, etc). We recommend that you start at 9/16“ and move up or down ( min. 1/4 ”max 1”) if necessary to get consistent arrow flight. You need to find the spot that is right for you. Nock height can cause “ porpoising ” as the arrow slaps off the shelf from the nock height being too high or too low. Point of impact can also be adjusted slightly up or down with nock height changes.
                    To start with there are several different ways to get your bow shooting properly. This is the way I prefer. Make sure your bare shaft is setup the same as your broadheads, as far as field tip and broadhead weighing the same. I like to shot a bare shaft into a foam target at 10 to 20 yards. You need a straight shaft with a field point, spin it to make sure it is straight, if it isn’t pick another shaft. This is important. You will probably need several shafts because you will probably bend or break some if your spine is way off. You should be using the same weight field point as your broadhead
                    Starting at 10 yards shoot a fletched shaft at your target; this will give you a reference. Now shoot your bare shaft. Check the entry of the bare shaft compared to your fletched shaft.
                    1. If the point is high and nock is low you need to raise the nock point on you string
                    2. If the point is low and nock is high you need to lower the nock point on you string.
                    3. It is possible to have #2 if nock point is way to low, causing it to bounce off shelf.
                    4. At this point get it as close as possible, don’t worry at this point if it isn’t perfect as spine with effect it also.

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                      #11
                      ol man thanks for the help but i have a question because i shoot with a 2oclock cant would nock high mean that it would be strait up or in relation to my cant so nock high would mean it would be nock aiming at 2 oclock...

                      does that make since

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                        #12
                        like at 20 yards my broadheads fly strait but hit 12" low of field points... i have played with brace and nock point and am confident this is the best it can do so im turning to the arrows. if its hitting 12" low then its showing nock to high but this is the closest i can get going up or down... because i cant at about 2 2:30 does this mean i have a weak arrow? im confused because the 43lb limbs shot the same arrows with 60 gr. more up front perfectly but the 49lb limbs are showing weak still with a 60gr drop..... does this make since to anyone

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                          #13
                          Now I'm confused on the bareshaft tuning cause what I read just yesterday is that I should ingnore the nock position on the bare shaft but just get them to group with the fletch shafts.

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