Are your broadheads. Really? I know we want them as sharp as possible, and I can get mine to cut some hair but they don't really shave like a super sharp knife will. I start with a file then use an accusharp. I'm kicking around getting a KME but I don't know that it's really necessary or that it would be that much better than what I'm using now.
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Like a really sharp knife. And two blade, double bevel heads are easier for me to get that way.
Shaving "a few hairs" sharp can be deceiving. If it's not basically wiping them off ypr arm/leg it could be basically just sawing or breaking through the few you see come off. But really even that sharp will kill if you put it through the boiler room. But the blood trail and wound opening can be lessened.
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I'm having good luck with the KME knife sharpener. The only suggestion I have is buy the extra course 100 diamond stone .The sharpener comes with a 140 and the 100 will save you time getting the initial bevel. Ounce you get the bevel set and the edge rolled over everything goes pretty quick. Putting the arrow in the right place is more important than being able to shave with the broadhead. I've never had a broadhead that will still shave after it has passed through an animal , so I've always wondered just how sharp is the broadhead after it makes the initial pass through the hide and ribs . It has to do that before it gets to the vitals.Comment
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If it doesn’t shave with ease it doesn’t go in my quiver.
My broadheads will shave after passing through an animal almost every time.
The quality of steel varies from bh to bhComment
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Steel quality or even aluminum ferrel quality varies. But a head that is too hard is too difficult for many to sharpen well. Too soft the same. The head I shot the doe with Sunday will still shave. I touched it up after it killed the one the Tuesday before and will touch it up and let it eat again.
GaryComment
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For two blade heads like Zwickey’s I start with a file at an angle of about 20 degrees. After I have the angle honed, I go back at a slightly steeper angle on just the tip edge of about 22-24 degrees using light pressure from one side to another. Once I have a fine edge, I use a leather strip and take the burr off. It should at that time shave with no resistance. If they t doesn’t shave easily, it doesn’t go into my quiver.Comment
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How sharp?
Mine shave easily! I am the worlds worst at sharpening anything. For a loooong time, I shot Thunderhead 125 broadheads because I figured a sharp T-Head was better than a not so sharp cut-on-contact head that I had tried to sharpen.
I then found the KME Knife sharpener, and used it for years to get my broadheads very, very sharp. I detested sharpening broadheads, and would put it off till I was down to my last one. It takes me about 30 minutes per head using the KME (that is not a knock on that great product; it is evidence of how bad I suck at sharpening things).
Then I bought a Chef’s Choice EdgeSelect 120 electric knife sharpener off the TBH classifieds for my kitchen knives. It worked so well, I decided to try it for my 2-blade broadheads.
WOWSER!!!
I can get my heads shaving sharp in about 5min per head now, and I actually enjoy the process!!
This sharpener will only do 2-blade heads, and only heads that you can remove the blade from the ferrule. I have done Magnus Stinger, German Kinetic, and Eclipse blades with it, all with great results.
Bisch
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProLast edited by Bisch; 01-10-2019, 10:14 AM.Comment
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Mine have always been just as a new razor blade. However, when I was short on those and had an afternoon to bolt out and hunt a few years ago...
the rusted 100gr Thunderhead went straight through the deer at 37 yds and into the earth just like a new blade.
I don't stress over it as much as I once did.Comment
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I too used to think I was handicapped when it came to sharpening broadheads, but then I realized the hair on my arms is just REALLY tough!
Seriously, I struggle to get my heads "razor" sharp. I have a KME and almost every other sharpener on the market. I have great killing success with my set up, but feel the blood trails would be a lot better with sharper heads. DRT was right, if you put it through the boiler room, they will die! You just may not have the greatest blood trail to follow.Comment
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Here is the system I use in case anyone is interested..only tricky part is maintaining a consistent angle. But once you get used to it it is super easy!Comment
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Is out of the box sharp not sufficient? Or do you like to tinker with things? If it is a reused broadhead, I only use on hogs and such.Comment
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I check and touch up even out of the box heads. If they are good I will put them straight in the quiver. But not all are. Even out of the same package. Some heads, like Woodsman Elites, dont even come close to sharp from the package and seem proud of it. I've killed multiple deer with the same heads multiple times. My last two die were shot with the same head. Cleaned it up, touched up and back in the quiver. Right now it's still on the bench on the end of the bloody, broken shaft waiting to be touched up for another kill.Originally posted by lanceodom View Post
GaryLast edited by DRT; 01-10-2019, 12:19 PM.Comment
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Same system I use.Originally posted by Randy Madden View Post
The #1 problem folks have when using this system is to much pressure.
Learn to use lite strokes, and you can sharpen any edge, that you can safely apply to the wheels.
RickComment
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How sharp is an envelope? You bleed like a stuck pig with a paper cut.Comment
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