What spine?

[Stick'n'String]

Got an opportunity to stack up on some arrows at a good price, but I don't know what spine I need for my setup. I'm still pretty new to traditional so I appreciate any suggestions. I have a 55# Cabela's Sabrehawk recurve. After nocking an arrow and marking it, I've found that I can cut my arrows down to 27.5" and still be comfortable with the amount of BH clearance. If I'm wanting to put 200-225 grains up front, what spine should I go with.
I'm slow to respond to these posts sometimes, but I appreciate any advice and will answer any questions y'all may have about my setup if I forgot to mention something.

[SwampRabbit]

Need to know your actual draw length and the weight of the bow at your draw length in order to provide a ballpark recommendation. you mentioned it is a 55# recurve, but at what draw length? You say you can cut your arrows down to 27.5", but what is your actual draw-length? 26"?

[Featherflinger]

My draw length is around 26.5"-27". My longbows are 52@28 and I use Carbon Express Heritage 150s cut to 28.5" with 175 up front and GT Traditional 3555s cut to 28.25" with 225 up front. Sounds like your DL and setup may be similar to mine. Hopefully this gets you close.

[Stick'n'String]

My DL for a a compound is 29", but I have no idea how to figure out my DL for a recurve. The bow is 55# at 28". How would I go about figuring out my DL for a recurve, and the actual draw weight at that length?

[Junkers88]

The best way I've found to determine draw length is to come to full draw, anchor and have someone use s sharpie to mark the arrow where it sticks out past the front of the bow. Then measure that. If your draw length is less than 28" you'll be shooting less than 55lbs of draw weight. If you draw farther than 28" you'll be shooting more than 55lbs of draw weight. The difference is 2-3lbs +/- per inch.

Richard.

[Featherflinger]

Get someone to watch you shoot and mark where you draw to. Don't just draw and let down because people tend to draw further when they aren't actually shooting.

[Stick'n'String]

The best way I've found to determine draw length is to come to full draw, anchor and have someone use s sharpie to mark the arrow where it sticks out past the front of the bow. Then measure that. If your draw length is less than 28" you'll be shooting less than 55lbs of draw weight. If you draw farther than 28" you'll be shooting more than 55lbs of draw weight. The difference is 2-3lbs +/- per inch.

Richard.

Get someone to watch you shoot and mark where you draw to. Don't just draw and let down because people tend to draw further when they aren't actually shooting.

This is how I determined my maximum arrow length. When I was at full draw, and my buddy marked the arrow, 27" was flush with the riser. I could cut an arrow down to 27.5" if need be to get the correct spine when I start bareshaft tuning. But when it's all said and done, I want at least 200 grains up front. I'll be getting the Easton axis traditional arrows when I'm ready to purchase them. I'm thinking I'll need some 400s

[SwampRabbit]

Don't take this the wrong way, but how long have you been shooting trad? 55# is a lot of weight to try and reach a proper anchor and brace when you are first starting out. Most folks tend to hunch and collapse when trying out those measurements in the very beginning. You say your Compound draw length was 29"... do you know where the nock of the arrow was in relationship to your face... was it near your mouth or along your cheek? Where was your hand.. at the back of your head, or closer to your jaw?

It seems most folks go through either 2 or 3 sets of arrows... or 2 or 3 bows before they figure it out. That is, folks who buy heavy bows tend to have to tweak their arrows and may go through a few setups. Whereas folks who start at light bows and increase the bow weight, typically have their arrow config lined out by the time they buy their "heavy" weight bow.

I think you are somewhat on the bubble between 400 and 500. I'd tend to lean more to the 500 side since you are drawing on the lower 50s, but if you are really a longer draw, then with that bow, you are likely to want a longer shaft, your DW would be higher, and you'd be in the 400 spine range.

If you can, measure your draw length on a lower weight bow. Length is always valley of the nock to the back of the riser (the back being the side furthest from you.)

[Briar Friar]

Dont get set on a particular length. Tune at full length prior to cutting...then work your way shorter. The calculator might be spot on for you though.

3Rivers doesnt sell arrow stretchers.

[Stick'n'String]

Thanks for the responses, I got some good tips and the info I needed