Restoring a classic - 1930s Ben Pearson Longbow

[JonBoy]

I picked this little beauty up from one of my wife's friends. His Mom apparently shot bows when she was younger and he held onto this 1930's vintage Ben Pearson longbow she bought new and shot for several years. It has been closet kept and hasn't been strung in decades and he finally decided it need a home with another archer. After some how-to advice and some internet sleuthing I'm going to attempt to resurrect this old bow and get it back into shooting form. No visible cracks and the finish on it is still superb.

Who should I contact about getting another string made for it?

[SwampRabbit]

That is a great find!!!!

As far as string goes, any string maker should be able to make up a B-50 Flemish twist for you. Just need to know the length of the bow (nock to nock) and go from there.

Any idea of what the draw weight is?

Again, congrats on the cool pickup.

[Restless]

be careful those old bows tend to be pretty dry

[Dkincaid]

Looks like lemon wood. I personally wouldn't shoot it but if you decide to be sure and research how rehab a old wood bow

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[JonBoy]

That is a great find!!!!

As far as string goes, any string maker should be able to make up a B-50 Flemish twist for you. Just need to know the length of the bow (nock to nock) and go from there.

Any idea of what the draw weight is?

Again, congrats on the cool pickup.

Awesome thanks for the info! Not sure on the draw weight yet and tip-to-tip it measures 67"...I'll have to remeasure nock-to-nock.

As far as revitalizing the old bow I was told to apply a liberal coat of lemon oil to it and let it soak in and rest for about a week. Repeat several times over several weeks before attempting to string it. When stringing and eventually drawing I was told to work slow and listen for creaking/cracking as I go. If no audible sounds, proceed a little further until I finally work the bow back into full draw. If it creaks/cracks its probably better served as a wall hanger. Thoughts?

[Dkincaid]

It depends on how intact the original finish is and how it was stored. If it's been climate controlled for the most part it should be fine for moisture I would think. A long string like a tiller string would allow you to slowly excersise the bow. I don't think the oil would help because the finish looks like shellac. I'm by far not an expert and only know what I've learned from trial and error. I think it would be a cool project the more I think about it.

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[JonBoy]

It depends on how intact the original finish is and how it was stored. If it's been climate controlled for the most part it should be fine for moisture I would think. A long string like a tiller string would allow you to slowly excersise the bow. I don't think the oil would help because the finish looks like shellac. I'm by far not an expert and only know what I've learned from trial and error. I think it would be a cool project the more I think about it.

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The original finish is practically unblemished so I also had the thought of how useful the lemon oil would be since it appears "sealed". The gentleman said it was kept in a closet and "hasn't seen the light of day for decades"...I imagine it was in a cool, dark, temperature controlled environment. Definitely a fun little project and I'll post up pics if/when I get it strung.

[60 Deluxe]

I read a thread on Tradgang about this very thing a few weeks ago. You might have been the person asking the question. What I remember is slowly bring it up to brace height using an adjustable string. Brace it first at quarter brace and leave it for a few days and so on.

If the finish is as good as you say, I doubt that oiling the bow will have any value.

I have several of the old lemonwood bows and personally have no desire to risk breaking them so I will never string them. They look pretty darn good on the rack and are quite a contrast to the bows from the 1960s with the exotic woods and fancy layups in the risers.

[JonBoy]

I read a thread on Tradgang about this very thing a few weeks ago. You might have been the person asking the question. What I remember is slowly bring it up to brace height using an adjustable string. Brace it first at quarter brace and leave it for a few days and so on.

If the finish is as good as you say, I doubt that oiling the bow will have any value.

I have several of the old lemonwood bows and personally have no desire to risk breaking them so I will never string them. They look pretty darn good on the rack and are quite a contrast to the bows from the 1960s with the exotic woods and fancy layups in the risers.

Wasn't me but I'll definitely have to go look I looked it over last night very carefully and have to agree that oiling it won't do much if any good b/c the varnish is completely intact. I rigged up an adjustable string last night and very carefully strung it to about a quarter brace height and let it sit over night with no issues. I unstrung it this morning and I'll repeat this evening with a little more brace height and so on.

[Dkincaid]

I wouldn't leave it strung all night just excersise it it for awhile every day a little more each time

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[Puggy625]

Cool old bow. My dad used to work at the Ben Pearson plant when he and my mom first moved to Pine Bluff back around 1969 or 70.

[60 Deluxe]

How is the old bow coming along?

[JonBoy]

How is the old bow coming along?

Great! I've progressively strung it so far to about an 8" brace and have been giving it about 50-100 light tugs (probably about 4-6" with an arrow in it just in case) each stringing cycle and letting it sit for a while. I'd like to keep stringing it with an increasing brace to simulate the draw cycle. Thoughts?

[SwampRabbit]

Great! I've progressively strung it so far to about an 8" brace and have been giving it about 50-100 light tugs (probably about 4-6" with an arrow in it just in case) each stringing cycle and letting it sit for a while. I'd like to keep stringing it with an increasing brace to simulate the draw cycle. Thoughts?

Brace and draw impart 2 different forces. I would bot go past 8" brace. Only draw from there.

[JonBoy]

Brace and draw impart 2 different forces. I would bot go past 8" brace. Only draw from there.

Understood. Thanks for the heads up!