What arrow setup do you recommend for target+hunting?

[rockmesteady]

I have been shooting for about 6 months or so and only own one type of arrow, it's the setup the guy at the shop shoots and recommend to me. I've tried a couple other people's arrows that are lighter or shorter and can definitely tell a speed difference (though I know in traditional that's not always the best option for hunting). The arrows I shoot are tuned really well for me and fly straight and consistent, nothing wrong with them. Just wanted to see what else might work well, or even better.

I know I'm opening up a crazy can of worms, but I thought I'd see if someone had a specific recommendation for my bow and situation since it's so common. I am open to trying out something different to see if it's better since I have nothing to compare it to.

I want to use the same arrows for target and hunting so that things are consistent. (obviously swapping out tips) I would like an arrow setup that would be good for hunting east Texas whitetail.

My current set up:

#40 Samick Sage (LH)
27.5" draw length
7 5/8 brace height
Fast Flight string w/cat whiskers
3 under (if that matters)

30" GT Expedition Hunter - 5575/400
125gr field tips
5" shield feathers, right helical twist
standard GT knocks and screw in inserts


Any other recommendations for arrow setup, specifically for the shaft? And why/how would it better or different?

And if you have any recommendation for hunting broad heads, feel free to throw those in as well, although that could be a whole other thread in itself. Also, include the why/what/how of your choices.

Thanks so much!

[Bisch]

Those 55/75's are likely way too stiff if you are shooting 40# at your draw length, esp cut down to 30" and if you are using a standard aluminum insert!

I shoot GT XT Hunter black 55/75's, 32" von to end of shaft, with 250gr up front (100gr insert and 150gr point/broadhead), from my 50# bows, and they are still just a hair stiff.

I do not have a "target" setup. Everything I do is for hunting, and I practice and shoot 3D with that same hunting setup!

Bisch

[rockmesteady]

Actually now that you mention it, I just remembered the guy at the shop originally recommended/made up some with 500 spine, but he said when he tested them with the bow he was surprised they didn't fly as well. So he bumped them up to 400's and said they flew better but was surprised by having to go stiffer.

It doesn't porpoise or fishtail (which the latter is what it would do if the spine was off, right?) How could I tell if it is too stiff or not if it flies straight? And what would be the disadvantage if it was?

[rockmesteady]

And i don't want a "target setup" either. I want to practice with what I'm going to hunt with.

What broadhead to you like to use, by the way? Or do you have a few you prefer for different reasons/scenarios?

[Bisch]

The only way you can tell if your arrow is too stiff (or weak) is through some fashion of tuning. Either barshaft or paper tuning. I mainly paper tune. I only bareshaft after I have got my paper tune correct to verify that everything is correct. I would bet if you were to strip the feathers off one of your arrows, and shoot it bareshaft, it would darn near turn sideways going to the target!

As far as broadheads go, there are a gazillion great heads out there. Just about any cut on contact broadhead that is razor sharp will work just fine.

Just about all of this (equipment-wise) is all personal preference, and it is up to the individual to decide which things they like the best.

Bisch

[rockmesteady]

Tell me about paper and bareshaft tuning... I'd love to try both just to see what happens. (or to try out new arrows)

And what kind of broadhead isn't a 'cut on contact'? Are you meaning the mechanical expanding ones? Like I said, I'm new to this whole thing, but I want to learn.

[Bisch]

Bareshafting and paper tuning are methods to verify that your arrows are spined correctly for your bow, and for telling that your nocking point is at the correct location. It is too complcated to try to explain much farther over the internet. Your best bet is to find other trad guys in your area who can explain this, and other things to you in person.

With bareshafting, you shoot shafts with no feathers, and how they fly and impact a target helps tell you what needs to be done to make the arrow perfect.

With paper tuning, you shoot fletched arrows through a piece of paper, and the rip in the paper tells you what needs to be done to make the arrow perfect.

If you have not developed somewhat consistent form, neither of these methods will tell you much, and both will likely be a source of great frustration!

Bisch

[Bisch]

Sorry, I guess I missed your question about the cut on contact broadheads.

If the broadhead blade goes all the way to the tip, like this one:



then it is cut on contact.



If the blades do not go all the way to the tip, like this:



It is not cut on contact.

Bisch

[bucknuts]

I had hell when i first started . I had no clue about traditional archery in general. Looking back at all the stupid mistakes and different arrows i bought. Nothing beats trial and error, if you can afford it. Arrow flight is pretty obvious if you pay attention. Part of the fun is getting that perfect setup... Blackwidow pma autumn oak 64" 56# @ 28" carbon express heritage 350 with 170 grain zwickey two blade broadhead. My go 2 setup

[SwampRabbit]

I shot pretty much the exact same setup. Same bow, string, DL and dw. I needed 600 spine arrows at 29 inches with a 100gr up front. For 50lbs I went 500 spine with 175 up front.

This is to give you an indication of spine ballpark.

[strigif0rm3s]

For you I would try 29.5" arrows. I like the Easton axis arrows personally. 600 spine, 75 grain brass inserts, 145 grain tips. 5 inch parabolic feathers. Rightwing, offset or helical.

[rockmesteady]

thanks for all the advice everyone...i'll have to try that out when i have the funds to get new arrows (which who knows when that will happen)

i wish i could just try out all those arrows you guys talked about and see what worked best and then spend money in that direction.

[rockmesteady]

also two other questions:

where do you find tips that heavy (i'll i've found is 125 grain) or weighted inserts?

and another question for the tread:

what do you think about GRAINS PER INCH too? what is a good weight for that setup (regardless of spine) i wanna say right now the arrows i have are 8.2. any good go to weights?

[Phillip Fields]

also two other questions:

where do you find tips that heavy (i'll i've found is 125 grain) or weighted inserts?

and another question for the tread:

what do you think about GRAINS PER INCH too? what is a good weight for that setup (regardless of spine) i wanna say right now the arrows i have are 8.2. any good go to weights?

Heavy tips can be found at 3Rivers Archery.

Don't worry about GPI, what you want to look at is GPP (grains per pound). A good hunting setup, as a general rule, is 9 to 12 gpp. At 40 pounds this would be 360 to 480 grains. Personally, for a 40 lb bow I would go even heavier, probably 500 -500 grains. Most of my hunting set ups run 11 to 13 gpp.

[little john]

thanks for all the advice everyone...i'll have to try that out when i have the funds to get new arrows (which who knows when that will happen)

i wish i could just try out all those arrows you guys talked about and see what worked best and then spend money in that direction.

Where do you live?