YES, you should !!!!!
If you think it is unnecessary to wax your strings, then you are under informed.
Now lets get this straight right up front. I'm not calling anyone who thinks string waxing is unnecessary dumb, or stupid. Simply under informed.
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Yes, it is true that most of today's string materials are resistant to both moisture & abrasion, but that does not mean they are impervious to it.
```````````````````
Lets start with examining moisture:
Most of the new materials are made from fibers that will not absorb moisture, BUT if your string is not well waxed moisture can still become trapped between the strands, and stay there until it is ejected through the force of shooting, or it evaporates.
Moisture trapped in the string will make it heavier, and can/will effect how the bow shoots. That effect may not be much, and for many will be a non issue, but it is there none the less.
Those who hunt in very wet environments will likely wipe down their bows & dry/clean them when they finish their hunt, but unlikely to ever think about drying the string. Those who might put their bow up for long periods of time after them being wet, and have a wax neglected string on them are running the risk of the string molding internally. Mold will deteriorate even the best of materials & it will become weak & brittle eventually.
Waxing the string keeps the moisture out.
```````````````````
Now let's look at abrasion:
The strands & fibers of the strands in the main body/working area of the strings are violently vibrated, and hammered together during the process of shooting. THEY WILL suffer the effect of abrasion, and the integrity of the string will suffer & degrade with time. This includes even the best most abrasion resistant materials. Like I said - resistant does not equate to impervious.
A simple example of this is to look at both acrylic yarn & wool yarn silencers. Both are extremely moisture & abrasion resistant, yet will puff up & become puffier with time spent shooting. That puffiness comes from both internal & external friction/abrasion which occurs during the violent vibration. The loose ends, and looseness of the fibers allow this to happen, but wax those silencers up & see how long it takes them to puff up. 8^)
Waxing the string helps cut down on the abrasion, and will indeed help maintain the integrity & life of any string made from any material.
```````````````````
Now let's look at the proper way to wax a string:
Many folks will rub wax on the exterior of of their string while it is braced on the bow under tension. While this does coat the string with wax it does not address the interior of the string, thus it does not address internal abrasion, and quite frankly wax jobs like this will not stay on the string for very long.
You should instead wax your string while it is relaxed. Work the wax into the string throughout the main body (don't worry about the loops or loop splices). Once you have the relaxed string well waxed through & through, then string it up & wipe away the excess wax. This way you have the string well waxed both internally & externally. The internal wax will slowly wick/bleed from the inside to the outside keeping the outside sealed from moisture.
It is completely unnecessary to rigorously burnish an already shot in string. Once you have it waxed & strung back up, simply rub it with your fingers to warm it up & allow the strands & fibers to evenly settle into the wax. Again, once you done this just wipe away any excess there may be.
```````````````````
How often you wax your string is directly related to how much you shoot. Just keep an eye on it. If it starts to look dull, and especially if it starts to look fuzzy it is time for a wax job.
```````````````````
Construction waxing:
For flemish strings you should use a harder wax such as pure beeswax for your loop construction. This harder wax works as a resin to insure the structural integrity of the loops & loop splices, and will normally stay there for the life of the string. The hard wax is to heavy & stiff for use in the main body/working area of the string.
For the main body/working area of the string you should use a softer, more limber, lighter weight wax. This is also the maintenance wax you should use for the waxing process described above.
Most waxes on the market today are just fine for use on any string. Just pick a soft one & run with it for your maintenance waxing, or mix up your own.
```````````````````
Submitted with respect
Rick
If you think it is unnecessary to wax your strings, then you are under informed.
Now lets get this straight right up front. I'm not calling anyone who thinks string waxing is unnecessary dumb, or stupid. Simply under informed.
```````````````````
Yes, it is true that most of today's string materials are resistant to both moisture & abrasion, but that does not mean they are impervious to it.
```````````````````
Lets start with examining moisture:
Most of the new materials are made from fibers that will not absorb moisture, BUT if your string is not well waxed moisture can still become trapped between the strands, and stay there until it is ejected through the force of shooting, or it evaporates.
Moisture trapped in the string will make it heavier, and can/will effect how the bow shoots. That effect may not be much, and for many will be a non issue, but it is there none the less.
Those who hunt in very wet environments will likely wipe down their bows & dry/clean them when they finish their hunt, but unlikely to ever think about drying the string. Those who might put their bow up for long periods of time after them being wet, and have a wax neglected string on them are running the risk of the string molding internally. Mold will deteriorate even the best of materials & it will become weak & brittle eventually.
Waxing the string keeps the moisture out.
```````````````````
Now let's look at abrasion:
The strands & fibers of the strands in the main body/working area of the strings are violently vibrated, and hammered together during the process of shooting. THEY WILL suffer the effect of abrasion, and the integrity of the string will suffer & degrade with time. This includes even the best most abrasion resistant materials. Like I said - resistant does not equate to impervious.
A simple example of this is to look at both acrylic yarn & wool yarn silencers. Both are extremely moisture & abrasion resistant, yet will puff up & become puffier with time spent shooting. That puffiness comes from both internal & external friction/abrasion which occurs during the violent vibration. The loose ends, and looseness of the fibers allow this to happen, but wax those silencers up & see how long it takes them to puff up. 8^)
Waxing the string helps cut down on the abrasion, and will indeed help maintain the integrity & life of any string made from any material.
```````````````````
Now let's look at the proper way to wax a string:
Many folks will rub wax on the exterior of of their string while it is braced on the bow under tension. While this does coat the string with wax it does not address the interior of the string, thus it does not address internal abrasion, and quite frankly wax jobs like this will not stay on the string for very long.
You should instead wax your string while it is relaxed. Work the wax into the string throughout the main body (don't worry about the loops or loop splices). Once you have the relaxed string well waxed through & through, then string it up & wipe away the excess wax. This way you have the string well waxed both internally & externally. The internal wax will slowly wick/bleed from the inside to the outside keeping the outside sealed from moisture.
It is completely unnecessary to rigorously burnish an already shot in string. Once you have it waxed & strung back up, simply rub it with your fingers to warm it up & allow the strands & fibers to evenly settle into the wax. Again, once you done this just wipe away any excess there may be.
```````````````````
How often you wax your string is directly related to how much you shoot. Just keep an eye on it. If it starts to look dull, and especially if it starts to look fuzzy it is time for a wax job.
```````````````````
Construction waxing:
For flemish strings you should use a harder wax such as pure beeswax for your loop construction. This harder wax works as a resin to insure the structural integrity of the loops & loop splices, and will normally stay there for the life of the string. The hard wax is to heavy & stiff for use in the main body/working area of the string.
For the main body/working area of the string you should use a softer, more limber, lighter weight wax. This is also the maintenance wax you should use for the waxing process described above.
Most waxes on the market today are just fine for use on any string. Just pick a soft one & run with it for your maintenance waxing, or mix up your own.
```````````````````
Submitted with respect
Rick
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