Need some bare shaft tuning input

[jerp]

For the last couple days I've been trying to find the right arrow combo for my new bow. When I ran these through the Stu Miller Dynhamic Spine Calculator it is very close - the two numbers are within 1/2# of each other. I know the calculator is not perfect so I'm down to the fine tuning. Pictured below are the results I'm getting.
This is from 18 yards:

As you can see, the bare shaft group is to the right - showing a little weak. I was going to shorten the shafts by 1/4" but then I think I remember reading that the fletches and wraps stiffen the shaft a bit, so bare shafts hitting a little right is OK. What do you think? Bare shafts low mean I need to lower the nocking point too, right?

[Phillip Fields]

You're probably in the ballpark. I copied this from A&H Archery site. It is from O.L. Adcock's directions for bare shaft tuning:

The most forgiving arrow to shoot will actually show a slightly weak/slightly high nock point indication. In other words, at 20 yds or more, bare shafts grouping a little low and right is perfect because fletching makes a shaft react slightly stiffer.

[live2hunt65]

Nice

[jerp]

You're probably in the ballpark. I copied this from A&H Archery site. It is from O.L. Adcock's directions for bare shaft tuning:

The most forgiving arrow to shoot will actually show a slightly weak/slightly high nock point indication. In other words, at 20 yds or more, bare shafts grouping a little low and right is perfect because fletching makes a shaft react slightly stiffer.

Thanks Phillip, that's what I was looking for. I can understand why the bare shafts hitting slightly right is OK, but I'm not getting why "slightly high nocking point indication" is OK with the bare shafts. Why do bare and fletched shafts fly different - up and down wise - from the same nocking point?

[TxAg]

Maybe lower your nock point a 1/16" to 1/8"?

If the fletching doesn't stiffen it enough, you can play with your brace height a bit. I think you're real close so I wouldn't want to go through the trouble of cutting your arrows.

[Phillip Fields]

Thanks Phillip, that's what I was looking for. I can understand why the bare shafts hitting slightly right is OK, but I'm not getting why "slightly high nocking point indication" is OK with the bare shafts. Why do bare and fletched shafts fly different - up and down wise - from the same nocking point?

Has to do with the cant of the bow. For a right hand shooter with the bow canted to right the slightly weak shaft will move right and down. I shoot without a lot of cant so I don't tune with my arrows quite as low as in your picture.

[ra61hunting]

Just raise your brace ht. an 1/8" and see how those arrows react before changing your nocking pt. or shortening your arrows.

[Mike Javi Cooper]

Screw your nock point down about two turns

[jerp]

I'm going to quit trying to adjust the nocking point until I shoot enough for the string to settle in. Brace height keeps moving on me. Hopefully a couple more shooting sessions will get me there.

[jerp]

I discovered something last night. Took some pics and discovered I'm short drawing just a bit, especially later in the shooting session. I guess I'm still getting used to the increased draw weight. Think I'd better just blank bail for a few days working on that before I make any arrow changes....

[caughtandhobble]

Yep, you answered your own question... Get that string broke in before fine tuning. You are definitely in the ballpark. Like said above brace height and nock adjustment will get you where you want to be

[Longbow99]

For a right hand shooter that is darn near perfect. Unfletched shafts should hit slightly low and to the right.