A few arrow building questions

[TXbowman]

Which do you recommend, fletching tape or glue?

I'm thinking of getting a cut-off saw since arrow saws are so expensive. Is there a certain blade I should get to cut carbon?

If I am right handed, do I go with right or left wing feathers?

Can I use fine grit sand paper to square arrows after cutting instead of an expensive squaring tool?

[Fergeris]

Following

[trad"Doc"53]

Can't help much about the saw, I bought one due to having done arrow work on the side for an archery shop. The old saying goes if your right handed shoot left helical feathers and right hand helical for left handers. I'm right handed and always shot right helical with no problems.

[Blood Trail]

Can't help much about the saw, I bought one due to having done arrow work on the side for an archery shop. The old saying goes if your right handed shoot left helical feathers and right hand helical for left handers. I'm right handed and always shot right helical with no problems.

huh? I thought it was the opposite? Right handed, right heli???

[Gunnyart]

Related observation.
Tried to re-fletch some arrows yesterday with an old tube of Bohning glue. It didn't cure correctly. Use fresh glue.

[Caddo]

I like Fletch tape for Carbons with arrow wraps. I use DUCO for everything that I paint a Cap on. Fletch tite for aluminums.

Most arrow saws come with a cutting disc vs. a blade. Will cut anything.

As far as right wing vs. left wing, I've found no discernable difference as long as all of them on the same shaft are the same.

With a good cut off saw, I've never found the need to square up a shaft.

Hope this helps.

LD

[loco cacahuate]

If you use tape, be sure to store it in the fridge, it'll go bad left out.
Clean all surfaces that have glue with acetone or denatured acohol, especially inserts and inside of shaft where they go.

[jerp]

I use carbon arrows with wraps and switched from glue to fletch tape a couple years ago. Once you get the hang of it it's easy. One reason I like the tape is that there is no waiting for glue to dry - just push the clamp against the shaft, release it and flip to the next one. I still put a drop of glue on the leading edge of each feather. I have never had one come off. If you are talking about using a small chop saw to cut your shafts, use a fiber disc blade similar the cut-off wheels that are made for a Dremel.

[LeanMachine]

Right wing or left wing does not matter in relation to you being right or left handed. All that matters is that your clamp matches your feathers; right wing feathers with right wing clamp. You will also have to match single bevel heads to the fletching.

[chackworth3]

Right wing or left wing does not matter in relation to you being right or left handed. All that matters is that your clamp matches your feathers; right wing feathers with right wing clamp. You will also have to match single bevel heads to the fletching.

This. The fletch tape is much easier and a lot faster than glue. I put a drop of glue on both ends of the feather still though.

[TXMark]

If you use tape, be sure to store it in the fridge, it'll go bad left out.
Clean all surfaces that have glue with acetone or denatured acohol, especially inserts and inside of shaft where they go.

Yes the tape will go bad if left in the heat. I found that out this year and now have some new tape. Didn't think about the fridge but it will go in there now.

[equin]

As everyone else said, the fletch tape loses its adhesiveness if left out in Texas' summer time heat, whether on the fletch tape roll or after having fletched an arrow. Best to keep the tape in the fridge and the fletch-taped arrows indoors in a/c, even with a drop of glue at both ends.

I can't help you with carbons since I make and shoot aluminums, but with aluminum shafts, I use a small tubing cutter I got at home depot and a small knife to chamfer the insides once the cut is made. With the tubing cutter, I start off slow and then slowly and gently continue to tighten the knob as I'm making the cut. Otherwise, if I tighten it too quickly, it tends to crush the shaft. I practiced first on some bent, unusable aluminum shafts to get the hang of it.

[Bisch]

Can't help much about the saw, I bought one due to having done arrow work on the side for an archery shop. The old saying goes if your right handed shoot left helical feathers and right hand helical for left handers. I'm right handed and always shot right helical with no problems.

huh? I thought it was the opposite? Right handed, right heli???:confused:

No need to be confused, Leon!

It does not make a bit of difference! As stated above, you just need to make sure you use right wing feathers with right clamps and left wing feathers with left clamps!

Bisch

[trad"Doc"53]

huh? I thought it was the opposite? Right handed, right heli???

Left helical was suppose to rotate your shaft away from the riser for a right hand shooter, giving less arrow to bow contact as the arrow passed the shelf/riser area. Same for left haned shooter to shoot right helical.

[Fuzzy Dog]

Which do you recommend, fletching tape or glue?

Tape. It won't glue your fingers to the clamp, the fletching or each other, nor will it glue the clamp together. I keep mine in the freezer between uses.

I'm thinking of getting a cut-off saw since arrow saws are so expensive. Is there a certain blade I should get to cut carbon?

A diamond edged masonry blade works great of carbon.

If I am right handed, do I go with right or left wing feathers?

Makes no difference as long as you don't mix them; They're clear of the bow before they begin to turn. There is, as always, one exception if you use a single bevel broadhead, then use fletching that matches the broadhead.

Can I use fine grit sand paper to square arrows after cutting instead of an expensive squaring tool?

If you clamp them well when cutting you shouldn't need to square them, for cleaning them out before test fitting the insert a rat tail file works quite nicely.