setting up for the first time

[cooksomerice]

Hello

I made the trip to Archery Country today to get outfitted to start shooting at home. I draw 50#@29" and was told to use the 2117 shafts cut at 30 and one half inches. I am shooting splitfingers and need to work on my release, but find that my bow is very loud, even after I had them put some beaver balls on the string. I was also told that 4 inch feathers are OK and that is what they sold me. I was thinking that I needed 5 inch feathers. But, not being an expert, I bought what they recommended. Also, they placed the nock point on the string without using a square. It was "eyeballed" by the guy behind the counter. I asked about that and was told that he does that all the time. The same was said about setting the brace height. It was "eyeballed" also. Is this how it is done? I also bought a shooting glove and a bow stringer since I was there. I drove the hour home with my family and felt like I got screwed. Did I??? This just does not seem right... What is the next thing I need to do??? Thanks.

[cooksomerice]

Also forgot to metion that my draw length was not measured, it was also estimated based on my height and what I draw with my compound.

[EDDAKA]

what bow is it? May i ask?

[broken arrow]

I don't think you got screwed, however, I don't think they spent ample time helping you get started. Some of these bow shops are so use to setting up compounds they hardly mess with trad bows. I have found some shops know very little. Lets start with the arrows. The 2117's will work, but thye might be a tad over spined. i would have bet that a 2016 or a 2018 would have been a much better fit. 4" feathers will certainly work, I sometimes shoot them out of my recurve, but a 5" will help steer the arrow a little better if your release isn't perfect. As far as nock point, I usually start at 5/8" over and go from there. But 5/8" seems to be where most of my bows like to be. Your bow may be loud because the brace height may be to low. Depending on what kind of bow you have will determine where you should start. I'd start around 8" and go from there. Keep adjusting either up or down until you get a good quiet bow that shoots true. One thing about trad bows are that they are easy to play with and tune. I'd get the brace height close, set the nock height at 5/8 -3/4" and go from there and start tuning. Good luck!

[Brute Killer]

The noise can possibly be reduced by changing the brace height; you'll have to experiment with that.

If you have a big target/backstop, you can set your nock height by shooting and watching the flight of the arrow (you may or may not be able to perceive the "porposing") and see if the back end of the arrow wags up and down (porposing). One again correct this flaw by experimentation and moving the nock set up or down.

Do the brace height FIRST.

Be sure you draw the same length every time (you won't have a "wall" like a compound) and anchor in the same place EVERY time.

When you get the porposing (up and down) corrected, see if you can see any side to side wagging of the back end of the arrow.

If you have a clean release and your arrow wags side to side, then the spine of the arrow isn't just right.

This can be corrected fairly easily by changing point weight up or down.
Once again, experiment and always make sure you draw and anchor the same every time and get as smooth a release as you possibly can.


For the release, I like to "pull through" the draw. I anchor with my middle finger tip at the corner of my mouth. Many say to use one of your teeth as a reference to anchor to as a tooth won't move and the soft tissue of your mouth will.

OK, when you reach your anchor point (with consistant reference point) think as if the tip of your finger is now stuck to that point and continue pulling back along the same line of your draw. Your fingers will open up and the string will slip from them. Your draw hand should continue moving straight back. You could practice by touching your thumb to the top of your shoulder as your draw hand comes back aand you complete the draw/release/follow-through cycle.

Also don't shoot until you become sore or tired as this can lead to bad habits suchas short drawing and snap shooting.

If you can, get the "Masters of the Barebow, vol 2" as a training aid.
It helped me a lot.

[loco cacahuate]

broken and brute covered it.

[Brute Killer]

Another recommendation from me would be to spend as much time with the bow in you hands as you can.

Once you develop your form and release, do what is referred to as stump shooting. Walk around out in the woods/pasture or whatever and just pick small targets to shoot at. DO NOT use field tips, as you will lose your arrows. Use a point like Ace Hex blunts or Judo points, just make/buy them in the same weight as the points you tuned your arrows with.

Shoot at clumps of grass or cow turds (dry ) or anthing small that you will have to concentrate on.

HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!

[loco cacahuate]

the wet ones score more.

[Brute Killer]

[cooksomerice]

Well the bow is a Red Wing Hunter... and I brought in a half dozen 2016 shafts with me from home and the guy I talked to said they were not spined correctly per the Easton chart. Everyone I spoke with prior to this said that they should be OK but I ended up with another arrow. Since then, I have noticed that they fly very poorly and the bow is loud. I can get another arrow this weekend from Double G if needed, howevere, I realize that the poor arrow flight is likey due to a poor release. I want to learn with good equipment so as not to be discouraged by mis-information and need confidence in my equipment. Thanks again.

[Ol Man]

Just a quick one... if you are getting wag in your arrows left to right then it can be as simple as altering your side plate - if they continually hit nock left (right hand shooter) then you need move it out if the other way move it in. Adjustments of this kind can be made by using stick on velcro and putting a match stick to move it out... most times using the piece (velcro) on it's own will solve numerous flight problems. If the arrow hits right of were you are aiming then the arrow is underspined and vice versa if it hits to the left. (Assuming you shoot right hand) Not porpoising which is up and down movement in the arrow flight - this is corrected by adjusting the nocking point. Also where are the beaver balls located if too close to the limb tip they are ineffective. They should be about 1/3 of the limb length in from the tips. This works very well 99% of the time. I honestly think the 2117's are going to be a problem as well. Try the 2016's and check flight against the 2117's after you get the bow somewhat set up. Where are you located?

[broken arrow]

The 2016's should work better than the 2117's. A 2018 would probably be the best. A 2016 @ 30" spines at around 61#, a 2018 @ 30" around 67# and a 2117 at 30" around 81#. The spine chart I used shows the 2018 to be the best at 50# and a 30.5" arrow

[moon]

"Masters of the Barebow, vol 2" as a training aid.
It helped me a lot.
This is a must!! You are just spinning your wheels with out this dvd!! you will get more out of this dvd You will be glad you did. It is worth ten times what they sell it for I promise you that...

[cooksomerice]

I am going to give this a shot. I have the brace height at 8 inches now. I noticed that whenever an arrow is nocked, the feathers touch the edge of the shelf. Is this OK or should I increase the brace height? I am also going to have some other arrows made with a lighter spine. I guess I should have demanded them for the beginning. I know that I will have more questions and will post as they come up. Thanks for all of your replies.

[LostHawg]

Contact John Preston at www.bobleearchery.com. See what he recommends. He's been shooting Bob Lees a long time.