Ok guys and gals here is my question on a recurve. I recently purchased a samick recurve 40# at 28 that I have just now set up to bow fish with. Of course when it's not on the boat I would like to start shooting it in order to become proficient with it. The question is what arrows to use? I was thinking gold tip 35/55. I imaging they must be feather fletched as I would think plastic vanes would contact the bow and would throw of arrow flight. I hope what I am asking makes sense to you guys and gals. No trad shops near me so no one to ask local that I know of. Thanks in advance for your input.
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It is hard to tell you over the internet but.....if you are actually drawing 40# at you draw length you may be able to get the 35/55's to work but would probably be better off with a 15/35. There is so much that goes into setting up and tuning that it is hard to say. If you are just starting out with trad then you really should just find an arrow that appears to fly well and start with that. Things will change as you develop your form and tuning is fairly difficult unless you have a fair amount of consistency.
Yes, you do want feathers on your arrows.
Bisch -
I figured it was going to be hard for me try to figure out what arrow the bow would like. Not having a trad. Shop near by makes things extremely hard. I have not even checked on line but would you know of any good trad shop near San Antonio? Thanks for the response and for any future info you might provide.Originally posted by Bisch View PostComment
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TttComment
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Pedernal, The link I have posted is a very good bow tuning instruction that was done by O.L. Adcock that might help. It is time consuming to do, but do not try to take any shortcuts. If you do what he says, your bow will tell you exactly what you need to do to make the arrows fly correctly. It is a step by step approach to tuning your bow. Do not skip over anything.
There are a couple of things you need to do to make this work:
1. You need to be sure you have a solid, consistent, repeatable anchor point.
2. You have to shoot several groups of arrows and look at the averages before you start making changes to your set up. Just shooting one group and making changes can get you frustrated in a hurry. This takes time, lots of time, but will pay off in the long run.
3. You do NOT have to be a great shot for this to work, but you do have to be able to keep the arrows in some sort of a group. If you are, at this point, still having trouble hitting the bag, move up close enough that you can.
4. The bare shaft tuning is the essential part of finding the correct arrows
You will find that once your bow is tuned to the arrows correctly, hitting the target consistently becomes much easier.
I am also betting that there are also stick bow guys willing to help you a lot closer to you than you think.
Good Luck!
WayneComment
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Here's the rub. Bowfishing arrows are heavy, solid fiberglass arrows with vanes. These are mostly shot off an elevated rest of some kind. So whatever arrows you decide to shoot for targets you'll be shooting off an elevated rest. Not a bad thing but something you should be aware of. FrankComment
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I've been bowfishing with stickbows for years and I have never used an arrow with any sort of fletching or shot off an elevated rest!Originally posted by Seldon slider View Post
BischComment
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Uh this is false.Originally posted by Seldon slider View Post
Shoot off the shelf with a reg graphite shaft.
Follow the bow tuning advice above and find a mentor.Comment
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I would stick with the solid fiberglass arrows for bowfishing but you do not need fletching or an elevated rest.Originally posted by SMOOTHboar View Post
BischComment
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Pedernal, I am shooting the same bow setup as you and curriently in the process of tuning my bow. I have been using the link that Wayne posted earlier and it is getting my arrows to group alot better. I now need to switch to broadhead tuning.
As for bow shops in SA, I recommend Mesquite Archery. Not really sure if they are big into Trad but they can certainly help you get going in the right direction.Comment
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DO NOT bare shaft broadheads! That might get UGLEEEEE!
WayneComment
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