you may give up them widows when you start shooting this one. looking good so far
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Todd - I'm gonna be completely honest here - I've never shot any other recurve, that shot as well as the Martin bows, and I've shot a bunch of the TopOfTheLine stuff.Originally posted by huntinpool View Post
The Wida didn't even come close at first, but it is a nice smooth draw (Martins are usually stacky), but like I said in an earlier post - I use the stack as a draw check.
Back to the Wida - It shoots darn good now, but it took some modifications to get it that way. 8^)
I've only shot one ILF rig, and I didn't like it, but I don't think it was setup properly, because the guy had just got it, and knew nothing about what to do with it, nor did I.
This riser is gonna be a real good looker when I'm finish, so like I said - if the ILF don't work out, I'll just stick a set of Martin limbs on it, and go from there with confidence.
RickComment
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OK guys.
Just measured it, and this riser has a 20 degree angle on both limb pockets.
A 1/8" shim takes the angle down to 17 degrees.
What in your opinion is the optimal angle for ILF limbs?
RickComment
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Rick, hard to say about the angle. 20" is not bad overall, 17" I am thinking would be better for your 28" draw and also easier to find ILF limbs to get you to 60#s draw. Very interested to see what you end up with.
RonnyComment
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I didn't want to panic anyone with the prospect of doing this, so I decided to just do it first, and then post the results.
I did not like the look, nor the feel of this riser since it had all of the extra width back to belly on the shelf, and the extra width side to side in the sight window for the detachable overdraw receiver/pad.
I performed some cosmetic surgery performing both liposuction & some nip/tuck to get a sleeker look, and a better feel. I've always liked a narrow shelf back to belly, and may reduce this one even more.
This bow will be customized for shooting off the shelf to be TBoT legal, but will still be capable of utilizing and elevated rest if desired.
The first three pictures show the riser as it was originally. The rest show it after the surgery was performed.
RickAttached FilesComment
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Thanks r2h.Originally posted by r2h View Post
I'm thinking the 20 degree angle may actually wind up being somewhat forgiving to the long riser with short limbs, and since I am going to temporarily attach the adapter plates to be adjustable, I'm pretty sure I will be able to find the optimal angle to make the bow accommodate my draw length nicely, and still have all the stored energy & performance it is capable of.
Time will tell. 8^)
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Wow, great to follow along. I would really like to attempt this one day.Comment
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I'm not quite finished with this step yet, but here are some pictures showing the modification I am doing to the shelf to help maximize fletch clearance & forgiveness at the pivot point.
RickAttached FilesComment
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Looking good. I like the riser reductions I'm with you, the increased angle may benefit your draw but not give you much gain in limb weight.Comment
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I'm not to worried about limb weight gain. Gonna try to get as close to what I want as I can get at the max with a half turn off bottom. All I really am interested in is tiller adjustment.Originally posted by huntinpool View Post
If I can hit 64 - 65 lbs draw weight at my draw with this thing, I'll be a happy camper, and if it all works out as expected it'll be a great all around (hunting & target) bow to use.
Of course with one of my hot rod strings on it, it's gonna be a screamin fast shooter too.
RickComment
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I have the modification to the shelf pretty much done now as shown in the first picture.
The black outline you see in the second picture is where I will be placing a wood scale, that will be set at 3/16" past center to it's surface, and will match the wood inlays at other areas of the riser.
The black box you see will be a cut out in the wood scale. It will be filled with a matching wood block, and also set to 3/16" past center at it's surface. This wood block will have a set screw embedded in it, which will be threaded to the opposite side of the riser. The screw will be hidden inside the riser, and a second set screw (also hidden in the riser) will be used as a locking device. This will be used to adjust the center shot & tuning for whatever diameter arrow is being used.
RickAttached FilesComment
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Dang, pulling out all the stops. I like the bump. And with adjustable side plate it should be a shooter for sure.
I used a stick-on for my bear WARF. It is a 23" and no gain. Sweet shooter and very stable.
I think you are really going to like yours when your done. Even if you end up at 66" your gonna have a shooter. BTW. My target bow is 66" and I shoot it out of my popup this is 72" tallComment
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Todd, this thing is cut a full 1/2" past center, so I'm left with very little choice but to build it back out some. I want it to look nice, so that is why I decided to do it with a wood scale, and have the counter sunk adjustable strike plate hidden within.
I'm probably going to wind up having to go with the medium length limbs, which will make the bow a 66"er. If so it'll be OK. I shot 66" & 68" for close to 20 years until I got the BW at 64". I got used to the 64", and like it, but I'll fall back in a groove with a 66" if I have to.
RickComment
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I have a few sets of medium limbs , LB and RC when you get ready for testing. They will also give you an idea of the gain you can expect. They are all rated lower 40's on 25" but give me low 50# on my 17 " risers.Comment
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Much appreciated Todd. I'll let you know when I'm ready.
You saw the adapter plates I am using. What other hardware do I need to complete the limb connection?
RickComment
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