Which arrows for my recurve?

[RS3]

Got a 40 year old recurve in excellent condition recently. Got a string for it last night and shot some old fiberglass arrows a few times. Guys at the shop suggested that I not shoot those, but go with aluminum or carbon's. I think I prefer carbons because they aren't going to bend. I've been shooting a compound for 15 years, but know the recurve is going to take alot more practice to master.

Of course, I'd like to keep the cost down as much as possible as I know losing arrows will probably be an issue. Just had my wife mark an arrow while I was at my anchor point. She marked the arrow at the front of the riser. I made a mark about 3/4 of an inch in front of that to give me a little more length for safety's sake and measured it out to 26.5 inches. The recurve is 48# draw weight. What brand and size arrows would everyone recommend? What weight field point? What should my total arrow weight be?

Also, I've got a EZ Fletch right helical,will I be able to fletch my own arrows with feathers? Any suggestions of feathers, i.e. brand, length, etc.?

Thanks!

[glen]

Big 8 I have some aluminums and carbons that are fletched that you are welcome to try and see if any fly good out of your bow- Im leaving in about an hour to hunt but get in touch with me by cell and see if we can get together.
512-947-3946

[Bill]

Another Red Wing Hunter comes back to life! I love it.

I shoot the CarbonVapor CarbonWood 3000 arrows in both my 54# and 41# Red Wing Hunters, plus have shot them out of my ~60# "custom" (San Jose guy who tried his hand as a bowyer for a couple years) takedown longbow. They fly great, are very durable (I have not broken one on the range, only broken with dying pigs fell on them) and with the wooden grain permanently in the shafts, look 'traditional'. With 100 grain points, they weigh-in at 410 grains. I know that is lighter than some folks like to shoot, but they fly great, and I get about 185 fps with them, and have had all 4 animals I've shot pass completely through the ribs and lungs (I aim a bit high to go for a pass-through and miss the opposite shoulder, which is debateable).

I put arrow wraps on from www.onestringer.com, Mindy made them to my design, and it's hard to see but they all say "Hunt Hard". 3 black feathers, full helical fletch. I use Fletchtite Platinum Plus glue.

Some guys in my archery club tried them out at the range, and bought some for themselves, they were impressed how well they flew and looked with the wood grain.

[edwardv]

Ask 10 different people about anything traditional and your likely to get 10 different answers. That's just how it is with us trad guys!! Get used to it.

Anyway, I like Carbon Express. It's all I shoot now-a-days. Jake, my employee at SureShot, only shoots Gold Tip. We work together, and we still shoot different stuff.

I'll give you my 2 cents and you can do with it what you like....

First, DO NOT CUT ANY ARROWS UNTIL YOU BARE SHAFT TUNE THEM. If you just buy arrows and cut them to your draw length like on a compound, you are probably going to end up with stiff arrows that are now worthless. There is nothing you can do for an arrow that is way too stiff. Point weight has some effect, but not nearly enough to compensate for arrows that are cut too short.

You need a fully assembled arrow (w point and fletching and nock) to weigh roughly between 9 and 10 gns per pound of draw weight, so for your 48#'s some where between 432 and 480 gns. You can go heavier if you like, but I would not recommend going lighter. A light arrow will go faster, but it will also make your bow louder and also it will not transfer enough energy from the bow to the arrow which will translate into shock into the bow. That shock over and over again with each shot can destroy a bow pretty quickly, espcially old bows.

Second, my recommendations for arrows. I'd go with at lease 125 gn points, but also consider a 145 gn. a 145 gn point can help you get your arrows a little shorter, by about 3/4" depending on arrow and draw length, etc. A 145 gn point will also give you a little more FOC which can give you a little better down range flight.

As far as shafts, depending on what your draw length finally comes out to be (with some practice you will probably get a little longer, but I'd have to see you shoot before I could help you with that) I'd go with one of the following: the CX Herritage 150, the CX Thunderstorm, or a long CX Terminator 4560 or CX Rebel 4560. You could also use the Gold Tip 3555 in the Traditional or the black shaft.

That's my 2 cents. Good luck to you. If you questions, feel free to email me.

Later,
Edward

[broken arrow]

edward hit the high points....

[tinman]

Great answer, Edward...a shop owner that actually knows his traditional tackle, what'll they think of next?

BTW, Carbon Express Heritage here too. I used to shoot GT-5575s but the CX-H shafts are tougher and seem more consistant in spine from one batch to the next.

[Rabidbowhunter]

He pretends like he knows but its just an act, he knows gold tips shoot better.
Naw like he said I shoot gold tips and he shoots cx and really I havent seen a whole lot of difference. I have just always had good luck with my GTs.