Brass Insert Glue

[RickBarbee]

Where can you get the Insert Iron?

I get almost all my archery stuff from here:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Glue+Adhesives+Point++Insert+Iron_c59_s64_p0_i4455_product.html

or

from here:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bohning+insert+iron&x=0&y=0

Rick

[BowBuddy]

I would forget about getting inserts out because you can damage carbons. if you want to tune set up 3 of them and cut down on the nock end

[RickBarbee]

I would forget about getting inserts out because you can damage carbons. if you want to tune set up 3 of them and cut down on the nock end

LOL,
I guess I'm a cheap-O, cuz I still have & use carbons from 10 years ago or longer. I remove, and reinstall inserts quite often.

Rick

[TxAg]

I'll just caution anyone from using Gorilla super glue. It dries almost instantly with carbons...to the point that I could only get my inserts half way in. The trick mentioned above using a field point and heat (stove top) worked like a charm and didn't damage the carbon at all.

2 part epoxy is all I use now

[brent.westbrook]

I would forget about getting inserts out because you can damage carbons. if you want to tune set up 3 of them and cut down on the nock end

this is where the hot melt first comes in

[smokin feathers]

i use goat tuff for everything but hit inserts here in the shop with no problems what so ever. but you have to be fast putting inserts in but they dont come out!! on hits i use the black hit glue, but have had inserts come out with it before. i use hotmelt on bh adapters and wood arrows and works great on aluminum but cant get it to hold on carbon especially out of c bows at high speed and hard targets.

have also had good luck with goldtip tip grip, gives you a little more insert time than goat tuff. i once used goat tuff to fix my busted radiator overflow bottle on my airboat on the water in minutes and its still holding!!

[Greywolf in Hawaii]

Shaft prep is the key, after cutting to length I then run a .270 brass wire brush inside the shaft which is mounted in a cordless drill to scar the inside for the hot melt to have something to get a hold of. Then clean with 95% denatured alcohol on a Q-Tip to remove all the carbon dust, I keep doing the swab till it comes out clean, Acetone ruins the integrity of the carbon fiber. Then I apply Eastons hot melt to the insert with a FP inserted, when I do this, I do it bare handed, if the insert is too hot to handle bare handed it's too hot for the carbon (Ed Ellison Easton manufacturing Instructor)

It's worked for me, so I keep with this method, but every one has there own way, take some ideas for one and use with another and do it.

[Bisch]

Scott, I use the two part five minute epoxy from home depot. I is kinda high ($15) but works very well. If it has not been mentioned above, you need to make sure you clean off the inserts before you use them. they have some kind of film on them when new that keeps them from sticking to the glue well.

Bisch

[BIG_B]

On the advice of the guy I asked at Three Rivers I used basic 2 part epoxy. That's on carbons - I think with aluminums a lot of people use hot melt glue so thay can be removed.

x2 also cures slow giving planty of time to tune broadheads

[AB3]

I use goat tuff.Doesnt get hard and crack.