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Ben pearson colt 7070 recurve

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    Ben pearson colt 7070 recurve

    What is this bow worth? Found it on ebay and curious if it would be a good starter bow. Any info is appreciated. I am actively looking so if anyone comes across a deal you aren't willing to take yourself please pass it on.....Hope you guys don't mind but trying to become associated with the stic side of things I am going to have lots of questions.
    Last edited by bdavid1020; 04-24-2011, 09:50 PM.

    #2
    I this Fred Bear Grizzly on craigslist today:

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      #3
      Originally posted by RemMan700 View Post
      I this Fred Bear Grizzly on craigslist today:

      http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/spo/2343734816.html
      Thanks is that a good bow for that price?

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        #4
        Yes if it does not have twisted limbs or any kind of cracks or delamination going on. I just got into traditional archery and bought a Samick Sage. I think it is a really nice bow for the money. It is a take down and you can buy different weight limbs for it for like 70 bucks if you ever want to move up in weight. I bought mine from Smithfield Archery in Ft. Worth. You can go in there and Stan or Rhonda will let you try one out(ask to shoot a 40 or 45 pound bow).

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          #5
          The Bear Grizzly is a very good bow and at 75$, it's a steal. However, since it's 58" long, I don't think it would be a good bow for someone with a 30" or longer draw length.

          In my opinion, longer trad bows are smoother to draw and easier to shoot accurately. If the Colt is 60" or longer and in comparable draw weight to the 58" Grizzly, I'd go with the Pearson Colt.
          Last edited by Night Wing; 04-25-2011, 06:05 AM.

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            #6
            RemMan, you did good. those Samic Sage bows are really nice starter + bows. You can't beat the price. bdavid1020, you should look at these as well.

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              #7
              I have a near pristine condition 62" Ben Pearson Colt that is 40# and it is a really good shooting bow. It draws smooth, shoots very quiet, and is just generally a good all around bow. I had shoulder surgery and had to go to a lighter bow while I was recovering, and this bow filled the bill for that very well.
              You asked the value, I paid $60 + $12 shipping off Ebay for this one which was probably a pretty good deal considering the bows condition, but I had to make a string and I had to polish a BUNCH of latex paint splatters off of it, so it did not look very good in the pics on Ebay.

              Wayne

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                #8
                Originally posted by RemMan700 View Post
                I this Fred Bear Grizzly on craigslist today:

                http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/spo/2343734816.html

                Bow has been sold


                Originally posted by trad"Doc"53 View Post
                RemMan, you did good. those Samic Sage bows are really nice starter + bows. You can't beat the price. bdavid1020, you should look at these as well.
                I have sent Ron an email on his

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                  #9
                  I bought several lighter weight bows off E-Bay when my kids were younger so their friends would have bows they could shoot when they came over. For the most part, the bows I bought were in decent shape; I did get burned a couple times, though, with bows that had damage which made them unshootable that could not be seen in the pic's. Twisted limbs are the most common issue with buying a bow you can't check out in person before you buy it. Twisted limbs, though, can sometimes be corrected, especially on lighter weight bows.
                  Just advising that I think it's best to buy bows you can handle before you buy then you know exactly what you're getting.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Texas5o View Post
                    I bought several lighter weight bows off E-Bay when my kids were younger so their friends would have bows they could shoot when they came over. For the most part, the bows I bought were in decent shape; I did get burned a couple times, though, with bows that had damage which made them unshootable that could not be seen in the pic's. Twisted limbs are the most common issue with buying a bow you can't check out in person before you buy it. Twisted limbs, though, can sometimes be corrected, especially on lighter weight bows.
                    Just advising that I think it's best to buy bows you can handle before you buy then you know exactly what you're getting.
                    Thanks for the info, how would I know if it would have twisted limbs? What should I look for, what would it look like? Escpecially if I get to see a bow in person.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by wayne meuir View Post
                      i have a near pristine condition 62" ben pearson colt that is 40# and it is a really good shooting bow. It draws smooth, shoots very quiet, and is just generally a good all around bow. I had shoulder surgery and had to go to a lighter bow while i was recovering, and this bow filled the bill for that very well.
                      You asked the value, i paid $60 + $12 shipping off ebay for this one which was probably a pretty good deal considering the bows condition, but i had to make a string and i had to polish a bunch of latex paint splatters off of it, so it did not look very good in the pics on ebay.

                      Wayne
                      pm sent

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                        #12
                        David, you can string up the bow and then look down the string at the limbs to see if they appear to be straight in line with each other. Look to see that the string lays in the string groove on each end and that the flat part of the limbs do not look like they are twisted to the side on either limb. Also check the fiberglass lamination for cracks. I have seen bows with lateral stress cracks or crazing that does not hurt the way they shoot at all, but if there are cracks running up and down the limbs, usually on the belly side(side closest to you when you are shooting) then that can spell trouble and I would pass on the bow.

                        Wayne

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                          #13
                          I'm fortunate to have a trad shop nearby, and they typically carry a bunch of old bears. I just got one as a bowfishing bow actually. Probably paid more than I would have on ebay, but being able to shoot a couple different ones really made a difference for me. Most of the bears are too short for me - a lot are in the 56" range - they are tough to shoot - esp. @ 30" draw, I got a 58" and it's a bit borderline, but will work fine for the purpose.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Wayne Meuir View Post
                            David, you can string up the bow and then look down the string at the limbs to see if they appear to be straight in line with each other. Look to see that the string lays in the string groove on each end and that the flat part of the limbs do not look like they are twisted to the side on either limb. Also check the fiberglass lamination for cracks. I have seen bows with lateral stress cracks or crazing that does not hurt the way they shoot at all, but if there are cracks running up and down the limbs, usually on the belly side(side closest to you when you are shooting) then that can spell trouble and I would pass on the bow.

                            Wayne
                            That is very informative. If I get to see a bow in person I will have somewhat of idea to look for. Thanks any tips are appreciated for this stics newby!!!

                            Originally posted by Txnrog View Post
                            I'm fortunate to have a trad shop nearby, and they typically carry a bunch of old bears. I just got one as a bowfishing bow actually. Probably paid more than I would have on ebay, but being able to shoot a couple different ones really made a difference for me. Most of the bears are too short for me - a lot are in the 56" range - they are tough to shoot - esp. @ 30" draw, I got a 58" and it's a bit borderline, but will work fine for the purpose.

                            With my comound I have a 27" draw and I pull 63#. From reading an listening, i know it is better to start off at a lower draw weight but what about length of bow, is that just from shooting?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by bdavid1020 View Post
                              With my comound I have a 27" draw and I pull 63#. From reading an listening, i know it is better to start off at a lower draw weight but what about length of bow, is that just from shooting?
                              I would not go shorter than 60". Shorter bows can be quite contanquerous!
                              62" or 64" would be great . The longer bows seem to "easier" to shoot and for a newbie that is important.

                              Bisch

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