What is the correct orientation of the nock to the feathers? In other words, where should the feathers ideally pass the shelf? Is this a matter of personal preference? I have looked for a diagram or picture but have not found one.
-
-
most of it is personal but most shoot with a feather straight in or out compared to the riser. Some shoot four feathers which change that some. -
Is this for wood arrows? I'm by no means an expert, as I'm still learning how to make and fletch arrows, but from what I understand, the wood grain is fairly important in determining the arrow nock position for wood arrows. You want the nock to be perpendicular to the grain from what I've been told. Rubydog and Bountyhunter should be able to explain it better than me if we're talking wood arrows.
As far as fletching position, though, I don't know. Curious to hear what the arrow experts say, but while learning how to fletch, I messed up on a few and the cock feathers ended up on top, on the bottom or inward, and even with, I couldn't tell a difference in how they flew compared to those arrows where the cock feather ended up in the usual outward position.Comment
-
Is it right wing or left wing? I like my Left wing for my cock feather to be just above the index on my nock and spiral past it to where my index is in line with the middle of the feather. Hope thats clear as mudd.Comment
-
It really doesn't matter if the arrow is matched/tuned to the bow. Good luck...VanOriginally posted by TexaRican View PostComment
-
Personnally, I shot two downa and one up. Like an upside down "Y". That seems to work better for me with the broadhead parrallel to the ground.
Van is right. You can shoot no fletching unless you have larger broadheads.Comment
-
Off the shelf, Cock feather out.. hens up and down at 120 degrees...Comment
-
The classic way is for the bottom hen to be in line with the corner between the shelf and the side plate. Fletched this way the cock will barely miss the outer edge of the shelf. The only feather to hit the bow is the bottom hen and it will hit the least possible being as it is in the corner.
Most fletchers are set to fletch them this way already.Comment
-
Kinda what I do. It seems to work with minimal feather wear.
Comment
-
Me too.Originally posted by Wudstix View PostKinda what I do. It seems to work with minimal feather wear.Comment
-
This is true and yes most good fletching jigs are set for this on a 3 feather fletch. On a 4 feather fletch you have a little more contact with lowest feather closest to the shielf because the angles have changed. This isn't a problem as you can nock either way with a 4 fletch so you won't see too much more feather wear. Also with a 4 fletch on carbon arrows it is easy to just twist your nock and change which set of feathers hit.Originally posted by Draco View PostComment
-
Did not realize the jigs were already set up. Honestly, I have not bought one yet but I'm looking for one. Anyone have a used one you'd like to sell, pm me.
I had bought some cedar arrows that are fletched but inconsistently so that initially started my question. Then I got some easton aluminums that were fletched with vanes but the nocks and inserts were not installed so I had to do it. Just guessed at it based on what I saw on my other arrows. So far, I'm not liking the aluminums. The vanes are so long that they hit my shelf at brace. I'm going to strip the vanes and do feathers once I procure a jig.Comment
-
Vanes are tough to get to fly off the shelf. Since they are stiffer, and don't collapse like feathers, they'll definately have a greater impact on the arrow flight early on.Comment
-
Personally I stay away from vanes, but there are a few brands that work well enough and some folks here perfer them.
As far as a jig goes I would recommend you looking into a Blitzenburger. There are others that are cheaper, but you get what you pay for.Comment
-
Amen on the Bitz..Comment
Comment