nocking point

[texscot]

why do we place the nocking point 1/2" above the level position of the arrow? Doesn't this automatically place the arrow off center?

[GILBERT]

Yes it does but for a reason. texscot, Ok, lets use the 1/2" off square you mention. This is due to the limb tiller, and design of the bow. For some people it is a little as 1/4" off square. For others it can be as much as 3/4" all depending on what bow, and how much tiller that bottom limb on that bow has, AND YOUR SHOOTING TECHNIQUE. By design of the bow i mean the placement of the arrow shelf. It is placed where it works the best, as determined many years ago. If you were to shoot off your knuckle then the pull of the arrow would be much more in line with the push of the bow resulting with less off square of the nock set required.....usually. It would still be depending on how much tiller the bottom limb has, and your shooting technique.

Usually the closer to the knuckle that you are the better.

Proper nock offset is a tuning effort towards getting both limbs to recover at the same time, as much as the tiller on the bottom limb is, and your shooting technique that will result in your arrow not kicking up or down.

There is alot more, this is just a basic explanation.

What have i missed guys?

GILBERT

[Deb]

Because Bob said so.

[widdler]

Because Bob said so now that is funny. I start at 1/2" if the arrow flys true I leave it there.

[huntinpool]

I set mine by bare shaft tuning. I don't have a clue what the measurement is. Looks around 3/8"

[texscot]

Really helpful explanation but I need to think to understand. Thinking is definitely a problem but I have been doing it way too long to stop now.

[texscot]

Bob Sarrells is great and I trust him totally BUT I still need to understand before I can do. Love you Deb but..... BTW I am trying this new technique of doing what you taught me and it is making the arrows hit the target. Isn't that amazing?

[Deb]

Truly amazing, Henry. You trying new things is why I told you "Because Bob Said So". We have fun, don't we? See ya Wed. or before that if ya want.

[Deb]

Yes, Friday is fine. Lets let it warm up a bit. Does 11 work for you? Please, please Henry, tell me you are not expirmenting with your noch.

[texscot]

Actually Debra I am using a metal take down bow with a balance plus some 60# arrows while I sit in a recliner chair and use ski gloves but otherwise no, I am not experimenting that much other than moving the nock down about 1". 11 am is fine. (experimenting with my 'noch' sounds kind of perverted.)

[Deb]

Ok, Henry, see ya on Friday. I'm gonna take some asprin and lie down now.....

[RickBarbee]

Nope Gilbert - you pretty much covered it.

The nocking point is a real personal/individual thing, because it is dictated by both the bow (the tiller of), and how the archer grips the bow. That is why it is very important to find a grip that is both comfortable, and is easily repeatable for every shot.

By the way Todd, I'm the same way - I never know what my nock point measurement is until after I have completed my tuning process which includes bare shaft shooting. I never really worry about where it winds up, but only that it works where it winds up.

Once I find the sweet spot on a particular bow, I mark it on a square, and I never have to go through the tuning process again unless I change arrows, or go to a different type of string.

Rick

[texscot]

Went back and found an old Sarrell comment on which he said:
"You gotta realize that the shelf is not the center of the bow in most cases. My shelves are cut 1 1/4 " above the center line, so this makes the top limb shorter than the bottom. This is the case in almost all bows. So you gotta make the bottom limb just a bit stiffer so they reach the same spot at full draw and close into the static position at the same time." Think I got my answer from that comment.

[Night Wing]

The nocking point on both of my bows is 5/8".

[texscot]

was told by 3Rivers that for split finger nock should be 1/2" higher and for three under should be 3/4". Thanks to Gilbert (and Bob) for a detailed explanation and the others who tried to help, particularly those who pointed out that not only is it technical but personal in the way we hold the bow. TBH is a great lace to learn because everybody tries to help