Traditional Gugus, insight please...

[Tubby]

I've been shooting for a couple of months. Getting more and more comfortable. Still not enough practice under my belt to feel 100% confident but here's how I was set up. Let me know if this looks right.

Bow specs: Sammick Sage 62" T/D Recurve, rated @ 50# @ 28". Actual draw weight is 54# @ 28". I do pull a little more than 28", probably 28 1/2" Shooting with an 8" brace height

Arrow specs: Carbon Express Heritage 150 @ 30" (measuring arrow only, no insert or nock). Weighted insert: 115 gr.(what I was told), 125 gr. f/t. 4" Shield Tru-Flight feathers.

Shooting with a glove, 3 fingers under & off the shelf.

I'm shooting what I think looks to be good, not noticing any tail whip, wobble or porpoising. With all the variables with traditional archery (not that I have any complaints) could any of this set-up configuration cause any problems down the road? I may be over-analizing this way too much, just want to get going down the "right" path. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks...

Clint

[Bullrdr82]

I am by no means a guru, but I would think those arrows are a little stiff.

My brother shoots a Spirit II (sister to the Sage) and he uses Beaman ICS 500s. These would equate more to a Heritage 90 than a 150.

The arrows wont be able to be shortened, cause then they will really be too stiff.

Others will chime in, but that is what I see as a possible problem down the road.

On the flip side, if things are not wrong, then dont mess with them.

[Longbow99]

According to Stu Miller's Dynamic Spine Calculator that setup should be under spined. according to your specs the bow should shoot 54.7# spine and your specs are at 39#. Are you noticing if your arrows tend to hit right ?(For a right hander).

The best way to test them is bare shaft testing. Do a Google search to see how it's done.

[Nitro1970]

I'm shooting easton axis 500's cut 28 1/4" with 200gr up front and they fly good for me. Bow is 50#@28"

[Night Wing]

Put a broadhead on that matches the field point weight and you'll know if your setup is right. If not, the broadhead will fishtail or do other things in flight.

[meangene1969]

If it hits where you are looking with good arrow flight it's right! Charts are only a place to start. I shoot 150s also out of my 55# recurve. So many issues change spine, like brace height, release, type and size of string. I would suggest bare shaft tuning your bow at 5 yards and then making your decision on the perfect arrow.

[Ol Man]

OK guys - thinks I am gonna add my 1 1/2 cents to the pile.

First off - I don't and never have bareshaft tested any of my arrows. One thing I do though is make sure that all my arrows upon impact are parallel to each other and have no change in the nock position from each arrow. This means they are flying true with no deviation in path.

As far as charts go - hooey! I have tried using everyones chart out there and they don't work for me at all. I get great flight out of 3555's and Axis 500's on every bow I own. Also use 300 grains up front on some of them, but usually 250. Now my bows range from 44 lbs. up to 65 lbs. and according to the charts I should be using 400's and on one 340's. Hmmm seems to be a wide range to cover. If they fly good and the nock is not left or right, up or down between arrows then your flight is great and don't mess with it.
Great arrow flight with some will forever be a fight to achieve...others get great flight no matter what. Me I fought for mine.

OK let the war of words begin!!!

[Feederwatcher]

yep.....what doug said !

[01milburnsc]

Ol Man,
What do you me by no change in nock position? Are you talking about the nock turning inside the shaft?

[RickBarbee]

I am an advocate of bare shaft tuning, but I also know that no single means of tuning is the end all be all in getting things right - except what Night Wing said.

You put a broadhead on there of the same weight as your field points, and if your arrows are right for the bow, the broadhead will shoot. If not, it'll be all over the place.
Get the broadheads shooting, and the field point will fall in line.

[Longbow99]

I don't disagree with Ol Man. The final test for any arrow is how it shoots off of my bow and particularly with the broadhead that I plan to hunt with. I've shot bows long enough to know by sight what's wrong with my setup, and I have enough spare arrows around of varying spines lengths and weights that within a few arrow I can find one that flies well.

I can also dig through a Gold Tip chart (for example), and knowing how my bow performs pick an appropriate shaft that will work on my bow.

But when your a novice and you don't have that background knowledge or the spare arrows laying around, The calculators are a good tool to get you in the ballpark.

As far as bare shaft testing, sure I could do without it, but when I'm working up a whole new recipe of different shaft materials weights and lengths that I'm not familiar with. it gives me the warm fuzzies to see 3 fletched and 3 unfletched shafts drop in a 4" circle at 20 yards. At a 3-D shoot several weeks back, I was shooting in the rain. I had complete confidence that my totally soaked fletching wouldn't bother my shot. Because I knew they would fly without them.