Finer Points of Reloading Questions

[jstanton]

I would say I'm a fairly novice reloader. Been doing it for a couple years now strictly for hunting loads and recreational target shooting. Last night I was pulling some bullets with a Hornady bullet puller, posted about this in another thread. I noticed that some of the bullets pulled much easier than others so that got me thinking are there more advanced things I should be doing for consistency and brass life? I've never had any issues so to speak with my handloads but always looking to improve. Here is my typical process.

1. Tumble & Clean
2. Full Length Resize
3. Trim Necks
4. Debur Inside/Outside Necks
5. Uniform Flash Hole
6. Clean Primer Pocket
7. Seat Primers
8. Throw, Weigh, & Pour Charge
9. Seat Bullet

I'm using a single stage RCBS press with Hornady Custom Grade Dies for my 6.5CM and 300WM. Using RCBS Competition Grade Dies for my 7mm RM. Lapua brass on the 6.5CM and ADG brass on the 300WM and 7mm RM. Berger VLD and Hornady ELD-X bullets.

I set my dies up following manufacturer recommendations.

As I've been researching and reading online I have a few questions.

1. Neck sizing only, is that better than FL sizing?
2. Bumping the shoulder back .002"? Does the FL die do that or is that an additional step?
3. Neck tension, how do I make that more consistent?
4. Any other recommendations?

Thanks in advance.


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[Stick1]

Neck tension is everything. Keep your resizing method and shoulder bump in play. However, I’d suggest removing the expander ball from your die(throw it in the trash, actually). Use expander mandrels(K&M makes some good ones) to set neck tension. Get several sizes from .001”-.004” to test. One of them will stand above the others, just have to find it. If you aren’t annealing yet, start. However you choose to do it, do it consistently. Also, a very overlooked factor is primer seating depth. It actually does make a difference. Use a quality seater that allows for .001” adjustments. Test it, to find your sweet spot. All this is assuming you are using good quality brass. Also, turning necks just enough to clean up the high spots can yield big results when trying to control neck tension.

[howabouttheiris]

My process is similar, but I trim and chamfer once after 3 reloads or so, based on a caliper measurement.

My answers to the questions...

1. Probably produces most uniform case capacity. I dislike the tight bolt closing, so I personally do not do it.

2. This is what I do, you start with a fully expanded case and set the depth of your FL sizing die to get this push. This is where a shoulder bump gauge and calipers are important. I have had a case head separation in the past when I reloaded a fairly hot load one time too many with a "do what the manufacturer said" setting on my FL die..... just overworked the brass.

3. You can anneal your brass to keep it fresh and get it more consistent. This is a again a step that I do not normally do, but I dispose of my brass after ~6-7 reloads.

4. Focus on what matters for your rifle. My rifle is fairly insensitive to bullet jump, so I stay well away from the lands. There may be a better group in there, but it does not make enough of a difference for the shooting I do (long range steel onto 1-2 MOA targets) I have a node at 40.2gn for my 6.5, which is relatively slow at 2700fps. There is a higher one, but it is harder on brass and, for me, not worth the velocity gain.

[jstanton]

Neck tension is everything. Keep your resizing method and shoulder bump in play. However, I’d suggest removing the expander ball from your die(throw it in the trash, actually). Use expander mandrels(K&M makes some good ones) to set neck tension. Get several sizes from .001”-.004” to test. One of them will stand above the others, just have to find it. If you aren’t annealing yet, start. However you choose to do it, do it consistently. Also, a very overlooked factor is primer seating depth. It actually does make a difference. Use a quality seater that allows for .001” adjustments. Test it, to find your sweet spot. All this is assuming you are using good quality brass. Also, turning necks just enough to clean up the high spots can yield big results when trying to control neck tension.

Robert, does the expander mandrel replace the expander ball in the die?

On the shoulder bump, can I control that with my FL die? If so how?

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[jstanton]

I do not anneal, yet.

I'm using Lapua and ADG brass.

Primer seating tool I'm using the basic one that came with my RCBS kit. Recommendations for a good one?

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[Dspivey]

Following.

[Stick1]

Typed an entire response and lost it!!! Will try again when I’m in a better area

[jstanton]

Typed an entire response and lost it!!! Will try again when I’m in a better area

Well dang! Standing by patiently!

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[Mike D]

I would say I'm a fairly novice reloader. Been doing it for a couple years now strictly for hunting loads and recreational target shooting. Last night I was pulling some bullets with a Hornady bullet puller, posted about this in another thread. I noticed that some of the bullets pulled much easier than others so that got me thinking are there more advanced things I should be doing for consistency and brass life? I've never had any issues so to speak with my handloads but always looking to improve. Here is my typical process.

1. Tumble & Clean
2. Full Length Resize
3. Trim Necks
4. Debur Inside/Outside Necks
5. Uniform Flash Hole
6. Clean Primer Pocket
7. Seat Primers
8. Throw, Weigh, & Pour Charge
9. Seat Bullet

I'm using a single stage RCBS press with Hornady Custom Grade Dies for my 6.5CM and 300WM. Using RCBS Competition Grade Dies for my 7mm RM. Lapua brass on the 6.5CM and ADG brass on the 300WM and 7mm RM. Berger VLD and Hornady ELD-X bullets.

I set my dies up following manufacturer recommendations.

As I've been researching and reading online I have a few questions.

1. Neck sizing only, is that better than FL sizing?
2. Bumping the shoulder back .002"? Does the FL die do that or is that an additional step?
3. Neck tension, how do I make that more consistent?
4. Any other recommendations?

Thanks in advance.


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1). No do not neck size only. It induces more runout on your case necks. As Robert said remove the expander ball from your sizing die completely. Get you an expander mandrel die (I use Wilson and 21st century) and get you mandrels that measure .002-.003 under the diameter of the bullets you are loading.

2). Yes you use your sizing die to bump your shoulders. Most does if set up per instructions bump the shoulder too much, some as much as .007 which isn’t good. In order to measure shoulder bump
You will need a good set of calipers and set of shoulder bump gauges. For a hunting rifle I usually bump .003.

3). Consistent neck tension will come from annealing and the expander mandrel. For the ultimate in consistency inside neck turning will be the most consistent but not worth the hassle on a hunting rig.

4). Quality consistent dies will help help. I’m considering selling my regular thread in seating does in favor of Wilson chamber style does and an arbor press.


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[M16]

Throw the directions that came with those dies in the trash along with the expander ball. Buy the tools to be able to measure shoulder bump.

[Hotrodd]

Some good info here!

[MLAH]

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[muzzlebrake]

Lots of good info here.
I don't know how uniform the ADG necks are but if anything like Lapua I would certainly turn the necks for consistent wall thickness. I've only found one brass mfg (Alpha Munnitions) that does not required neck turning to get them concentric. Having perfect concentric neck tension is a big factor in uniform velocity spreads which increases consistent accuracy results.
Get the neck turning tools and you will see how out of round some of this stuff is.
Some of the Hornady brass made by JAG is very good also but may be hard to find. Hornady factory ammo in JAG brass will most likely be very accurate factory ammo if the gun likes the bullet weight.

[jstanton]

1). No do not neck size only. It induces more runout on your case necks. As Robert said remove the expander ball from your sizing die completely. Get you an expander mandrel die (I use Wilson and 21st century) and get you mandrels that measure .002-.003 under the diameter of the bullets you are loading.

2). Yes you use your sizing die to bump your shoulders. Most does if set up per instructions bump the shoulder too much, some as much as .007 which isn’t good. In order to measure shoulder bump
You will need a good set of calipers and set of shoulder bump gauges. For a hunting rifle I usually bump .003.

3). Consistent neck tension will come from annealing and the expander mandrel. For the ultimate in consistency inside neck turning will be the most consistent but not worth the hassle on a hunting rig.

4). Quality consistent dies will help help. I’m considering selling my regular thread in seating does in favor of Wilson chamber style does and an arbor press.


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Thanks Mike D! What shoulder bump gauges do you recommend?

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[Leverhunter]

Run them through a factory crimp die. Lot of discussion for and against this but it's an easy way to help standardize tension and start pressures. Makes an noticeable difference in my 7-30 Waters.