Reloading Tips

[kck]

Have you had to turn necks on Lapua cartridges? I've never had to turn a neck on one. I'd be interested in learning more about it.

You don't really HAVE TO turn your necks on any cases. However, even Lapua will have slight variations in thicknesses (I usually see around .0005-.001 in Lapua brass) so if a person is chasing the best neck tension across the board then it's best to expand and then turn to a constant measurement. But hey, that's just an opinion.

[muzzlebrake]

If you are loading virgin brass it is best to not load it to max loads on the first firing in autos that generally have looser chambers than bolt guns. The reason being that it can cause premature loosening of primer pockets from higher pressure. Once the brass has been fire formed to the guns chamber the next loading will have lower chamber pressures even though you full length resize as long as you don't bump the shoulder back to below SAAMI spec. Lowering the chamber pressure just a tad can save your primer pockets for several more reloadings.

[geezer56]

I started loading when I was 20. I just turned 70. I still have all my fingers and eyes. Tips I give a new reloader or as follow. First, do one task at a time. Do not start with a progressive reloader. Second, keep records. Write everything down. Notebook is good, computers better. Third, use published data. The internet can get you hurt. Fourthly, only have one can of powder open at a time. Pistol powder instead of rifle powder will destroy a gun, fingers, eyes, and lives. Last thing is don't do anything else while loading. Don't fight with your wife, don't watch television, don't mess with your phone. And always check everything twice or three times.

[muzzlebrake]

I started loading when I was 20. I just turned 70. I still have all my fingers and eyes. Tips I give a new reloader or as follow. First, do one task at a time. Do not start with a progressive reloader. Second, keep records. Write everything down. Notebook is good, computers better. Third, use published data. The internet can get you hurt. Fourthly, only have one can of powder open at a time. Pistol powder instead of rifle powder will destroy a gun, fingers, eyes, and lives. Last thing is don't do anything else while loading. Don't fight with your wife, don't watch television, don't mess with your phone. And always check everything twice or three times.

[muzzlebrake]

Geezer, you and me about the same boat. I bought my first reloader a texan FW in 1969 and my second , a Lee hand loader in 1970. I'll be 75 in June if I don’t blow myself up.

[geezer56]

Another good tip I left out. Find an old guy like me that's been doing it for years. Ask for help. He will most likely tell you more than you want to know. Listen and learn grasshopper.

[Kong]

Always have 2 scales to double check powder charge consistency before loading the batch. I prefer a beam scale to check the first load after it’s dropped and I do this periodically if I’m loading a large quantity just to be certain nothings changed.

[Mike D]

Always have 2 scales to double check powder charge consistency before loading the batch. I prefer a beam scale to check the first load after it’s dropped and I do this periodically if I’m loading a large quantity just to be certain nothings changed.

I’m not that **** but I do want one of these:

https://autotrickler.com/pages/autotrickler

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[Kong]

I’m not that **** but I do want one of these:

https://autotrickler.com/pages/autotrickler

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’m running the V3 right now and their a nice addition to anyone’s reloading set up. I’m very OCD with my reloading steps so I still check my drops, I’ve never had one come out wrong with one but it’s an old habit for me to double check, you can’t be to safe.

[muzzlebrake]

Old Lyman beam scale and RCBS Chargemaster are my tools. Both are accurate enough for my use if I'm trying for more precision and doing single stage reloading. I use both to check and double check my Hornady AP powder thrower every few rounds when I'm cranking out a bunch of pistol boolits.

[muzzlebrake]

I’m not that **** but I do want one of these:

https://autotrickler.com/pages/autotrickler

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Pretty snazzy tool. Looks like it does the exact same thing as my old chargemaster at about the same speed.

[SabreKiller]

Always have 2 scales to double check powder charge consistency before loading the batch. I prefer a beam scale to check the first load after it’s dropped and I do this periodically if I’m loading a large quantity just to be certain nothings changed.

I use a beam scale for the first drop as well. Then I pour it into a digital scale to verify.

I use the same load process every time I load. Whether it's a large number of rounds or just a few.

I've got load data in an old college spiral notebook dating back to 1979 listed by caliber and rifle. I don't have some of those rifles any more, but I wish I did. That old spiral notebook is falling apart so I need to transfer all that data over to my computer. I've started keeping new data in a 3 ring binder with the target and listing load data and any comments on the target.

[muzzlebrake]

Sometimes I save my targets and write down the load data right by the group and later transfer it to my notebook if the group shows to be good.

[Mike D]

Pretty snazzy tool. Looks like it does the exact same thing as my old chargemaster at about the same speed.

The resolution on the scale is much higher as is the accuracy. That scale is considered to be the gold standard. And it apparently doesn’t overthrow charges either.


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[bearintex]

Consistency is key in reloading. I use a marker and put a small dot on each case. Whenever I resize, trim, or seat a bullet, I turn the mark the same way.

I used to do something similar when I reloaded and shot a 7TCU Contender in IHMSA competitions. Made a decent difference on the crack barrels.


Best advice I can give someone is to buddy up with someone who has been doing it for a while. I'd be glad to show someone the ropes, been reloading for near 30 years now.