I have a Tippmann Arms 22 AR with a trigger that’s not resetting. It’s a really good shooting gun. It shoots 3/4 at 50yds off the back corner of the truck. Its actually nice that it doesn’t look or feel like a toy like a lot of 22LR ARs. Today was the first time I’ve ever shot it. It shot 20 or so rounds just fine and then started having issues. After firing a round, you can dial to safety and here the click of the trigger resetting. Without dialing to safety, it won’t reset at all. What’s the problem and solution? Thanks.
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AR Trigger not Resetting
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Hard to say without seeing it in person, but sounds like the hammer may be over traveling and getting hung up. I was going to say either a sear is not catching the hammer or the bolt is not traveling back far enough for the sear to catch the hammer. But when you say that you can put the safety on and the trigger resets, that makes me think the hammer may be over traveling and hanging up.
You might clean and lubricate the trigger and hammer assembly.
Have you tried to pull the bolt back, with the mag out and empty chamber, then release the bolt and see if the trigger reset? If it does the same thing when you fire the gun. I would cycle the bolt, then open the gun up and look at the hammer and trigger to see what is going on. Make sure the gun is empty.
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Temporary solution when it does this is to stick your finger behind the trigger and push it forward, you can do this with it still against your shoulder. 22lr is extremely dirty and the triggers on AR15's are open to the bolt area. You can try spraying it out but ultimately the trigger will need to be removed for a good cleaning. If you don't know how it fairly easy, just look it up on youtube. I have a dedicated upper with a 4.5" barrel and a suppressor, I usually have to pull the trigger every few hundred .22lr rounds to clean it.
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Originally posted by Maddox View PostTry a different ammo. Current ammo may not have enough powder to set trigger.
I tried Remington Thunderbolt high velocity and Norma 1100fps ammo. Both had the same problem. With the gun empty, I can pull the trigger, pull the charging handle back and “fire” again with no issue. I’m certainly not even remotely close to a gunsmith so I’m pretty much clueless about this one.
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Clean it. Bolt is short stroking it sounds like. 22 caliber ARs can be very finicky. Lots of lubrication is needed till it’s broke in.
Cant explain the safety issue. My idea maybe not work but worth a try.
I have a 4.5” 22 SBR built like a standard AR. It’s a blast but it’ll let you know when it needs a bath.
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Originally posted by justletmein View PostIf the trigger is like a normal AR your trigger spring might be upside down or not set in correctly.
This...I have seen it in home built AR's but never factory built.
But anything is possible.
Trigger upgrades are always good. If it takes standard AR's triggers.
Look at the LaRue MBT.
LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger by Larue - Details, specs, manuals, images & videos, read the latest reviews or write your own
I think, 22lr AR's are straight blowback...right? No active buffer and tube with spring...Right? The bolt could be short stroking. Are you using high velocity ammo?
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so , from all the previous replies , some seem to be off base from what you actually said .. so let me try to clarify ... let me repeat to see if this is exactly what you said.. you fire the gun , trigger is dead like it is locked, put it on safety, you hear a click, then you can fire again with no need to cycle it ... if this is the case , the secondary sear is staying engaged most likely because the entire lower trigger body is not resetting .. the safety pushes down on the trigger body tab force resetting it. this type of failure is actually fairly common on an ar platform when you shoot reloads with loose primers and a primer pops out , falls into the trigger group and lodges under the trigger housing, in those cases you can't even put it on safety... since you have a 22 and assuming the trigger parts are ar15 trigger parts , the first question would be , did you take it apart ? if you did , you might have not put it back together correctly .. these is a spring under the secondary sear, and the main trigger spring in play.. the hammer spring should be irrelevant since it eventually goes bang .. that one is probably correct ... the lower spring could be in backwards, but that would make your trigger feel weird all the time ... bottom line is we need more info to narrow it down , but at least we know pushing the main body back down resets it to where it can fire , if the trigger is factory and was never taken apart at all,and you have no trash under it, you have a burr on the secondary sear to hammer that is bad enough that the trigger housing spring is not strong enough to pull the secondary sear off the hammer ...
... if you're going to replace the entire trigger anyways and again if the cavity is the same as a standard ar , a drop in trigger that is a one piece system with an entire drop in block trigger will be your best bet as it guaranties that the geometry stays good in case your lower receiver pins are not quite right..(like a timney) ... as opposed to a geissele which uses just internal separate guts that rely on the lower pin geometry. before you do all this , I would separate the lower from the upper and cycle the trigger by hand and see what you can see .. make sure you catch the hammer fall as it's not good for any lower to let it slam forward ... if you're lucky there may just be some machining trash under the trigger body since i believe the lower is polymer ...
my 2c.
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