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First Factory Barrel Removal

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    #16
    I think if I had to do another one I could get it without the releif, I learned a good bit. I did not use resin when the barrel spun so that was mistake one. Then I had underestimated my oppenent, mistake two. I have all the tools shown so far in this thread just did not setup and use properly. Once the barrel was marked/f'ed up, I just ground it and held with the vise. I did not want to ruin my barrel vice in the process as it is what I use on my custom barrels.

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      #17
      Blake, to drill and tap the base holes to 8×40 do I need a fixture or just be really careful?

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        #18
        Originally posted by -HIC- View Post
        Blake, to drill and tap the base holes to 8×40 do I need a fixture or just be really careful?
        buy the action block fixture ... sold by Brownells, PTG, Tannel, Holland, and other places that sell high end GS tools/equipment. 8-40 D&T needs to be done precisely set up in a fixture, secured in the vice, then done with a mill. If your holes are off centered, then your scope base if off, resulting in poor groups . Like all other gunsmithing, do it right the first time !

        my advice, call Darrell Holland on Monday and see if he has any more of the Rem 700 action fixtures FS

        https://rifleshooter.com/2014/10/rem...se-conversion/

        http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/remin...n-v-block.html

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          #19
          I don'nt have a mill, but it could be time to take the plunge on a lathe and mill if I can find something decent. Or, I will just leave these as is and bed the base for now. The only issue is that the reciever face and lugs do not look great and I have told myself a few times that I was not sending out 700's anymore! I will likely put it together and see how it shoots and go from there.

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            #20
            Originally posted by -HIC- View Post
            I have a Grizzly barrel vise, did not hold in this case. The barrel was not going to be reused anyway so I made it hold in a regular vise. I have a 16" barrel that will go on this receiver, just checked headspace and it is good. I am going to polish a few areas and bed it in a Houge stock. Wanted a short barrel for the deer stand. I hate a long barrel with the suppressor in a deer stand.

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            Any chance you’d send the old barrel if I pay shipping? Got a buddy with a lathe wanting to practice chop and threads without sacrificing a good barrel.

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              #21
              Yup, PM me.

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                #22
                A few have asked about my barrel vise. I use this one with cut toilet paper tube between barrel and tool, add some pine rosin if something is tough. This did not work with the factory barrel. I have a 2x2 reciever hitch setup that I can mount this to for changes at the range or lease.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by -HIC- View Post
                  A few have asked about my barrel vise. I use this one with cut toilet paper tube between barrel and tool, add some pine rosin if something is tough. This did not work with the factory barrel. I have a 2x2 reciever hitch setup that I can mount this to for changes at the range or lease.

                  Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
                  My barrel vise is like yours and set up to mount in a receiver hitch. I prefer that setup as opposed to a bench vise since it’s rock solid. You need a lathe so you can make aluminum inserts to grip the barrel in the barrel vise. I have an Enco 12x36 I may be selling. Very lightly used. Never in a production shop. Plus it’s single phase.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by -HIC- View Post
                    A few have asked about my barrel vise. I use this one with cut toilet paper tube between barrel and tool, add some pine rosin if something is tough. This did not work with the factory barrel. I have a 2x2 reciever hitch setup that I can mount this to for changes at the range or lease.

                    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
                    Couple tips for next time....... you can use powdered sugar if you don’t have any rosin.....and you may have done this anyway, but use an outside action wrench instead of an inside wrench when removing factory barrels. You can/will damage the action with too much torque with an inside wrench. Big green means it when the stick a barrel on a receiver if they could only get them straight....

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Stick1 View Post
                      Couple tips for next time....... you can use powdered sugar if you don’t have any rosin.....and you may have done this anyway, but use an outside action wrench instead of an inside wrench when removing factory barrels. You can/will damage the action with too much torque with an inside wrench. Big green means it when the stick a barrel on a receiver if they could only get them straight....
                      heh, that would help! I do have both kinds of wrenches. I had to use the external, I thought the internal would shear off.

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                        #26
                        Powdered sugar helps. I used it when I took off a factory barrel. I was also using aluminum bushings that I taper cut on a lathe to fit the barrel though.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by kmitchl View Post
                          My barrel vise is like yours and set up to mount in a receiver hitch. I prefer that setup as opposed to a bench vise since it’s rock solid. You need a lathe so you can make aluminum inserts to grip the barrel in the barrel vise. I have an Enco 12x36 I may be selling. Very lightly used. Never in a production shop. Plus it’s single phase.
                          How much are you looking to get for your lathe with any tooling, etc. ?

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