Originally posted by Wall_Hanger
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It’s a fast 6mm. It will perform awesome at distance if the twist is fast enough to run the heavies. We’ve taken much slower 6mms to 1818 in good conditions. The 240 should handle most anything you can stumble across. -
Man I really want to order a gun but I'm racking my brain on what caliber. I really want an 100ish grain bullet and want to run suppressed but I already have a nice .243.Comment
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Got my 7mm-08 on order today... just waiting on Jimmy to get me a few scope options and I'll be itching to pull the trigger.Comment
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I'm not nearly the expert you guys are but I think I got a Grayboe Terrain Tan/Black Web/Ratchet Fluted 20'' Threaded Barrel with radial break on order.Comment
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I looked on the website and couldn’t find anything on it. So what’s the break-in process for these rifles.
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interested in this. I think I have "broke in" exactly one rifle. Maybe 2 and I sold one of those.Originally posted by savin yours View Post
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Most quality barrel manufacturers say just go shoot it.
If you just want to take it slow you can shoot a group (3-5 shots) then clean the bore out. Shoot another group and repeat for as long as makes you happy. I generally don’t clean between groups after 20 shots (5 round groups).
I know guys that do less and I know guys that do more. YMMV
Most importantly enjoy your new tack driver. I’m sure Robert will chime in shortly
Sierracharlie out…Comment
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That is a good question. And one with a lot of answers, some may even be rightOriginally posted by savin yours View Post
There are a lot of opinions out there on this topic, and they are just that....opinions. I'll give you mine based on what I have observed.
There is a difference between breaking in and settling in. A good barrel will have a nice bore finish that was lapped in before your builder ever received the blank(most times). The only area that will be disturbed by the chambering process that will actually be contacted by the bullet is the leade in the throat. A very short, but very critical area of the bore. If it is not concentric, accuracy will suffer. If it is not smooth, it will set up a copper fouling issue that can be seen over the entire length of the barrel. There will be micro tooling marks left in this area no matter how good or sharp the reamer was that was used. The smaller these marks are, the better off you'll be. The "break in" process is supposed to take care of this issue by gradually "smoothing out" this area prior to bringing the barrel into it's service life.
I'm not sure I buy into this theory any more based on what I have seen, but I won't discount it either. The obvious issue is that copper is MUCH softer than steel, especially the copper on bullet jackets. It would take way more bullets down the tube than most break in procedures call for to see ANY appreciable "smoothing" or wear of the barrel steel. What DOES move barrel steel is fire and pressure. You can see the results of this through a good borescope after just 10-15 rounds. The thing is, it does not make things smoother. It actually makes them a little rougher. But it probably does bring the throat into a condition that allows it to load with just enough copper to "settle in" which most folks will perceive as "broken in".
I don't believe you can ever "break in" or smooth a throat with conventional methods if it has really heavy tooling marks to begin with. You will have quick and heavy copper fouling that will continue to build all the way out to the crown. I believe it "might" get better or begin to normalize with some throat erosion depending on how bad it was to begin with. No common "break in" procedure will really fix this situation.
It probably IS a good idea to shoot/clean for 2-3 rounds. There will be a micro wire edge left on the trailing edge of the lands from the reamer, and it will be cleaned up quickly in those first few rounds. In my mind, it's "broken in" at that point. Now it's time to "settle in", which can't happen if you keep cleaning it while trying to "break it in". Cut rifled barrels tend to "settle in" a little faster than button rifled barrels in the beginning.
Bottom line for me personally is that I no longer run a break in procedure on my own barrels. I'll clean them each time after the first couple outings, then only when they need it or are going to be stored for awhile. Each barrel is different and will tell you when it needs attention. Whether you decide to do a break in or not, be sure to get a GOOD fitted bore guide before running a cleaning rod down your new barrel. Improper cleaning techniques during the break in process cause far more barrel damage than most folks were trying to correct by doing the procedure in the first place.Comment
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Originally posted by Stick1 View PostThat is a good question. And one with a lot of answers, some may even be right There are a lot of opinions out there on this topic, and they are just that....opinions. I'll give you mine based on what I have observed.
There is a difference between breaking in and settling in. A good barrel will have a nice bore finish that was lapped in before your builder ever received the blank(most times). The only area that will be disturbed by the chambering process that will actually be contacted by the bullet is the leade in the throat. A very short, but very critical area of the bore. If it is not concentric, accuracy will suffer. If it is not smooth, it will set up a copper fouling issue that can be seen over the entire length of the barrel. There will be micro tooling marks left in this area no matter how good or sharp the reamer was that was used. The smaller these marks are, the better off you'll be. The "break in" process is supposed to take care of this issue by gradually "smoothing out" this area prior to bringing the barrel into it's service life.
I'm not sure I buy into this theory any more based on what I have seen, but I won't discount it either. The obvious issue is that copper is MUCH softer than steel, especially the copper on bullet jackets. It would take way more bullets down the tube than most break in procedures call for to see ANY appreciable "smoothing" or wear of the barrel steel. What DOES move barrel steel is fire and pressure. You can see the results of this through a good borescope after just 10-15 rounds. The thing is, it does not make things smoother. It actually makes them a little rougher. But it probably does bring the throat into a condition that allows it to load with just enough copper to "settle in" which most folks will perceive as "broken in".
I don't believe you can ever "break in" or smooth a throat with conventional methods if it has really heavy tooling marks to begin with. You will have quick and heavy copper fouling that will continue to build all the way out to the crown. I believe it "might" get better or begin to normalize with some throat erosion depending on how bad it was to begin with. No common "break in" procedure will really fix this situation.
It probably IS a good idea to shoot/clean for 2-3 rounds. There will be a micro wire edge left on the trailing edge of the lands from the reamer, and it will be cleaned up quickly in those first few rounds. In my mind, it's "broken in" at that point. Now it's time to "settle in", which can't happen if you keep cleaning it while trying to "break it in". Cut rifled barrels tend to "settle in" a little faster than button rifled barrels in the beginning.
Bottom line for me personally is that I no longer run a break in procedure on my own barrels. I'll clean them each time after the first couple outings, then only when they need it or are going to be stored for awhile. Each barrel is different and will tell you when it needs attention. Whether you decide to do a break in or not, be sure to get a GOOD fitted bore guide before running a cleaning rod down your new barrel. Improper cleaning techniques during the break in process cause far more barrel damage than most folks were trying to correct by doing the procedure in the first place.
Great answer, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
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Ohhhhh i didn't need to see this.....
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I've always wanted a custom rifle and I think reading through this thread has me highly considering getting on board with one of these.
Right now I have a 7 wsm that's a tack driver and I absolutely love the round. I want caliber that will be close to my 7wsm, but I would prefer a round I can buy fairly easily. Also, would like to at some point (hopefully sooner vs later) add a suppressor to my rig. What would be a good round??
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Seems most are getting a 6.5 creedmoor, 260, 25-06, or 280.Originally posted by MedicineMan7 View Post
Whatever you do don't miss out. The deal ends this week.Last edited by captainsling; 02-04-2018, 09:43 PM.Comment
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Originally posted by MedicineMan7 View Post
If your looking for readily available quality factory Ammo including long range options then the 6.5 CM is hard to beat.Comment
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