Thinking of getting into reloading

[Demilo78]

What all do I need to get into re loading? Will be for 308, 243, and 30-30

[gumbl3]

Loaded question. Most any of the starter kits will have everything you need to reload some decent ammo minus a set of dies and your ammo components. You can dive so much further with your brass prep, using competition dies for bullet seating, etc etc... First thing you should ask is what do you plan to reload for? $$ savings, hobby, accuracy, volume shooting? Then start researching the parts and pieces best setup for that process.

[WItoTX]

First thing you should ask is what do you plan to reload for? $$ savings, hobby, accuracy, volume shooting?

This.

[kmon]

Wrote this for another site but it does sometimes help with questions for getting started reloading.

Some information for those new to reloading or thinking about getting into reloading. While not complete it is a good start on our ideas of what is needed

Get at least 2 reloading manuals, Lee or lyman are both good for explaining reloading. I would say pick either of them and one from your favorite bullet manufacture.

Study the manuals on how to and what you will be doing. As far as data goes those with what is available online from various component manufactures should be enough to keep you out of trouble and finding good load information. If not post up questions when you have them.

If you can find a mentor that can show you the ropes for setup and loading even better. If not there are other sources. Lee, Sinclar, and others have some very good videos online showing the reloading process. If you are within driving distance of Cabelas in Fort Worth the Sunday reloading classes have been highly recommended.

As far as equipment there are many choices. You can get by with the cheapest equipment and darned little of it, but generally speaking you'll get what you pay for. With that in mind, if you're a hunter or plinker interested in reloading for hunting or plinking are *the focus* for you, buy the most economical equipment you think will suit you. If you think you might want to play around and experiment in search for the most accurate load you can build, spend more. There are many different perspectives on reloading, and each aspiring reloader's purposes and objectives justify an infinite number of approaches to the game and how much money should be invested in equipment.


Press - for someone starting out Single stage press is the way to go. The press is where you will find more disagreements than any other equipment on which is best. Lets just say some are better than others but all the presses on the market today can be used to reload some great ammo. Pick one you like and can afford, because if you take care of it the press will probably outlast you. Much like a good rifle if you wear a press out reloading then you will have had a lot of good times and spent a lot of time with it.

Dies - all the manufactures make some great ones. Any case with a shoulder or taper will have to use steel dies with lubricant. Straight wall pistol cases can be sized with carbide dies. Carbide eliminates the need to lubricate cases and really speeds up the job of processing brass.

Full Length sizing dies you will want a set for each caliber you plan to reload for. Always use a FL resizing die for automatic, pump or leveraction rifles, and if reloading brass shot in a different firearm.

Neck sizing dies are great for accuracy loads and extend case life by working the brass less than a FL resizing die. the Collete type dies for neck sizing are very good and work the brass even less. Bushing dies are very popular as well and are very often used by those chasing accuracy and consistency.

Bullet seating dies are used to seat the bullet and many have the ability to crimp or not depending on how you setup the die.

Crimp- Taper vs Roll

You will hear these terms thrown around, but it's important to understand the difference. A roll crimp is just what it sounds like- the mouth of the case is rolled into a crimping groove or cannelure in the projectile. It offers a very stable crimp but it works the mouth of your brass and can lead to splitting.

A taper crimp, on the other hand, squeezes the mouth of the case into the projectile evenly. It doesn't work the brass nearly as much and is the only crimp method that will work in most auto pistol calibers, since they headspace off the case mouth.

Crimping is necessary to keep the bullet from moving in the case during recoil.

factory crimp dies are great for crimping and easy to use.

CASE HOLDER - You will need one for your press to hold the shell in the press. If you use Lee dies the correct shell holder is included.

Case trimmers - are another necessary tool, as cartridges are fired and re-sized the brass will eventually stretch causing it to be too long which is not good as this can cause excessive pressures, cambering issues or both. Cases need to be trimmed to spec and if you are crimping the loads having them all the same length makes that a lot simpler.

When getting started, the Lee trimmer system works well and is inexpensive. It takes a little bit of time and elbow grease, but generally only trim every 3rd-4th loading.

PRIMING EQUIPMENT = the hand held ones are simple to use and do a great job. The Lee and RCBS versions are great.

POWDER SCALES - there are many good ones. Digital scales are very popular these days and a good one can speed up the loading process. The balance beam scale is still a good option, Learn how to use your scale and make sure it is calibrated before trusting it for weighing powder charges. Also air flow can make a difference so measuring powder is best done away from fans and AC vents.

When using a powder drop weigh every 4th or 5th charge. If you are loading for precision, you can drop your charge 1/2 grain light and finish it out with your powder tickler in the scale.

CALIPERS - either digital or dial are an necessity for measuring case length and loaded cartridge length. We are talking hundredths or even thousand of an inch to be accurate and safe.

POWDER FUNNEL - Have one. Have two. Have five. You can never have too many funnels!

LOADING BLOCKS - you will want these to hold your cases keeping things organized while you work.

CASE LUBE - the spray ones are good and easy to use but are only one of several options. Cases stuck in reloading dies are a pain to remove.

CASE PREP - you will need at least a camafer/reamer tool for cleaning up cases.

TUMBLER - for cleaning up the brass, another good route for that can be found in the hints sticky thread.

Bench Accessories-

Keep it clean and organized! A cluttered bench is a recipe for disaster! I keep two paper trays on my bench for processing brass, one for before, one for after. This cuts down on the confusion. A good set of blocks is a must, and it allows you to visually check your powder charges. When setting up your bench, be sure to leave plenty of room on the "weak" side of your press. This will give you a place to set your brass bins and ammo trays.

At some point you will most likely acquire other tools of the craft. Bullet pullers....


Mostly have fun and above all be safe. Do not exceed max published loads.

[crumrw]

A press, I have and like the Lee 4-hole. You'll need dies for each of those calibers. A good set of calipers. A scale. A tumbler or ultra sonic cleaner for brass. I tried the ultra sonic route, and didn't like it. Case lube. Powder funnel. Bullets, powder, primers, and brass obviously.

Then there are things that are nice... Powder dropper, trays for shell storage while loading, a lubrication tray, pocket reamer and neck deburring tool, case trimmer, plus about a million more things.

[mikebyrge]

I get laughed at every time I recommend this but the old Lee Classic "hammer" system is a good way to get into reloading.

I loaded maybe thousands of 38spl rounds with one and still use one for most of my 30-30 loading.

Minus the consumables (bullets/powder/primer/brass) you can be reloading for under $50.

[kmon]

Mike, one of those Lee classic "hammer" sets is what I started reloading with and learned a lot with it. Loaded lots of good 30-30 ammo with it.

[double bogey]

You are not going to save one penny. But you are going to be able to shoot a lot more, with ammo tailored to what ever you need.

[Demilo78]

I'll be loading for hunting and plinking, but when I figure out what I'm doing I want to work on some target rounds for the 243 and 308. Will the lee hammer loader work or will I end up needing to get a real press?

[Demilo78]

Also what are some load recommendations for a 308 with1-10 twist

[kmon]

The hammer style loaders are great to learn on but for volume loading they are slower than the press will be and they only neck size on bottle neck cartridges so with them in the long run you are better off with a press IMO unless you just don't shoot much.

Some don't like the Lee kits and their scale really needs to be replaced but I have loaded over 10,000 rounds on one and accuracy was just as good from it as a RCBS rockchucker that I traded a gun for (full setup with lots of cases and bullets).

[TacticalCowboy]

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLocation=%2F_%2FN-19590%2B4294967088%3FNp%3D2%26Nr%3DAND%2528p_visible%253A1%252Ccustomertypeid%253A1%2529%26Nrpp%3D24%26Ns%3Dp_metric_sales_velocity%257C1%26Ntpc%3D1%26Ntpr%3D1&userItemsPerPage=48&persistedItemsPerPage=0

I use(d) the hell out of Lee equipment, and the only thing I can say bad about them is don’t buy their progressive press, but you don’t need to worry about that right now. Pick up one of these kits, and dies for the calibers you need. You’ll be set for a quite a while.

I load on a Dillon mostly nowadays, but I still have a lee turret press mounted on the bench.

[Radar]

I get laughed at every time I recommend this but the old Lee Classic "hammer" system is a good way to get into reloading.

I loaded maybe thousands of 38spl rounds with one and still use one for most of my 30-30 loading.

Minus the consumables (bullets/powder/primer/brass) you can be reloading for under $50.

That was my first reloader too. Bought it in 1978 and sat on the floor in the kitchen and reloaded 38 specials. Wow , a flashback.

[LWD]

Also what are some load recommendations for a 308 with1-10 twist

Unless you're a bench rest shooter, disabuse yourself now of the notion that twist rate and accuracy have any correlation. They do not. Twist rate merely informs you of how heavy a bullet you can stabilize. In a .308, a 1:10" twist will stabilize up to and including a 220 grain bullet.

LWD

[crumrw]

I get laughed at every time I recommend this but the old Lee Classic "hammer" system is a good way to get into reloading.



I loaded maybe thousands of 38spl rounds with one and still use one for most of my 30-30 loading.



Minus the consumables (bullets/powder/primer/brass) you can be reloading for under $50.

The best part is you can take these with you to camp, and/or hang out in front of the tv while you load. Not a bad option.


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