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If you were building custom turrets how would you do it?

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    If you were building custom turrets how would you do it?

    Going to be sending my coupon to Leupold for my free CDS turrets when I get my load developed for my 300 WBY. Lufkin is 300' elevation, but within the next couple years I could easily be using it at higher elevation say 6,000 - 7,000 ft.

    My conundrum is do I build 1 for 300' and then later on order one for 6,000' or split the difference and say only order 1 for a 3500' elevation and use it in both areas? Just curious...

    #2
    Originally posted by canny View Post
    Going to be sending my coupon to Leupold for my free CDS turrets when I get my load developed for my 300 WBY. Lufkin is 300' elevation, but within the next couple years I could easily be using it at higher elevation say 6,000 - 7,000 ft.

    My conundrum is do I build 1 for 300' and then later on order one for 6,000' or split the difference and say only order 1 for a 3500' elevation and use it in both areas? Just curious...
    I had two built for my 300wby. One for Texas and one for Durango, Colorado. From what I can tell they are just alike so I use a ballistic calculator to find my adjustments.

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      #3
      I was playing with my ballistic calculator and it gave me the following values.

      450' elevation @ 400 yds = 18.56" of drop with 180g Barnes TTSX
      6000' elevation @ 400 yds = 18.25" of drop with 180g Barnes TTSX

      I would have thought that elevation would have played a larger role. I assumed zero temperature would be the same and reduced the humidity to 0 for the 6,000' load data. If these values are true then I don't see the need for separate turrets.

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        #4
        In

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          #5
          Originally posted by canny View Post
          I was playing with my ballistic calculator and it gave me the following values.



          450' elevation @ 400 yds = 18.56" of drop with 180g Barnes TTSX

          6000' elevation @ 400 yds = 18.25" of drop with 180g Barnes TTSX



          I would have thought that elevation would have played a larger role. I assumed zero temperature would be the same and reduced the humidity to 0 for the 6,000' load data. If these values are true then I don't see the need for separate turrets.


          Before you have a turret made, I'd suggest you get out and verify what your app is telling you. I'd make all the corrections in the app so that you're shooting DEAD ON at all your realistic hunting distances. Don't trust your app to give you the right solution based on one set of values you've input - not if you're going to have a dial built. JMO


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Now you see why most don't use them lol. Just learn to use the MOA or Mils part and use them anywhere anytime.

            The real solution is having multiple turrets.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Horitexan View Post
              Before you have a turret made, I'd suggest you get out and verify what your app is telling you. I'd make all the corrections in the app so that you're shooting DEAD ON at all your realistic hunting distances. Don't trust your app to give you the right solution based on one set of values you've input - not if you're going to have a dial built. JMO


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


              X2. Calculators are often off on first go.

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                #8
                I would recommend just sticking with MOA or Mil turrets and make up dope cards for your different situations.

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                  #9
                  I'd get mil turrets

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                    #10
                    How far do you honestly expect to shoot it? Being a 300Wby, I assume a long way, but how far? I've found that, for hunting, with most calibers and especially the fast magnums, you can shoot pretty dang far without dialing the turrets.... How far depends on your zero distance, reticle, velocity etc, but with your rifle, you can shoot a long way. For Anything past the MPBR, I'd want to actually calculate the drop for the specific range, verify several adjustments in practice to make sure my calculator was working correctly (meaning I put in all the data right) then when hunting, is want to calculate the drop for the individual shot of I could. If it takes 12 minutes to hit a 500, and 18 minutes to hit at 600, die that mean that 15 will hit at 550? Actually probably not depending on the size of the target. I never have trusted those premarked knobs though, that's just me. What if I give them the BC was advertised by the manufacturer, but the manufacturer overstated the BC (think Nosler ABLR)? Then there's your dilemma.... What of I'm hunting at 6000 feet one day and 500 the next? As you saw in your example, at least to 400 yards, it really doesn't change much... Like .3" at 400 yards.....I don't know you, but I doubt you or the rifle can shoot well enough to notice that difference, in fact, you can't even adjust the scope for the difference..... but what difference does elevation make at 800-1000 yards? I'm betting it's significant they're.

                    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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