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    #31
    Originally posted by Zen Archery View Post
    It's pretty simple. Wouldn't worry about the math until you get the build. Pick a quality bullet or two to work with, develop a solid load (if loading) then borrow a chrony. Spend time with those 1 or 2 bullets then send us your speed data. It doesn't take long to develop a close "dial up" that will get you in the ball park. But get the gun first.
    Once I get the mv I'll definitely post it here so I can get schooled.. Haha

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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      #32
      Originally posted by AndyRealtree View Post
      Once I get the mv I'll definitely post it here so I can get schooled.. Haha

      Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
      Only schooling is you in the field pulling the trigger, making adjustments and taking notes.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Zen Archery View Post
        Only schooling is you in the field pulling the trigger, making adjustments and taking notes.


        Solid advice

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          #34
          Originally posted by Zen Archery View Post
          Only schooling is you in the field pulling the trigger, making adjustments and taking notes.
          Of course. I just meant getting schooled on how everything works once I can come back with actual numbers as opposed to speculations and general "how to" questions like I am right now. There will be mucho range time. Haha

          Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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            #35
            Originally posted by Zen Archery View Post
            It's pretty simple. Wouldn't worry about the math until you get the build. Pick a quality bullet or two to work with, develop a solid load (if loading) then borrow a chrony. Spend time with those 1 or 2 bullets then send us your speed data. It doesn't take long to develop a close "dial up" that will get you in the ball park. But get the gun first.
            I'm at the point of developing the load now. Hopefully over the Christmas break the wind will lay and let me get to the range. Seems like every chance I've had recently the wind has been howling. My regular range is only 100 yards. Plan is to get good velocity numbers with the load, then bum some guest time at a local members only range with steel to 800 yards or so. Then I will simply shoot and dial in the given yardages and mark the tape.

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              #36
              Originally posted by bearintex View Post
              I'm at the point of developing the load now. Hopefully over the Christmas break the wind will lay and let me get to the range. Seems like every chance I've had recently the wind has been howling. My regular range is only 100 yards. Plan is to get good velocity numbers with the load, then bum some guest time at a local members only range with steel to 800 yards or so. Then I will simply shoot and dial in the given yardages and mark the tape.
              Please don't let the wind stop you from going to a range. Shooting in the wind is great practice even at 100 yards. It's part of the learning curve and nesessary to get hands on. Wind calls are probably the hardest thing to do in shooting distance, it will humble the best of them. Investing in kestrel wind meter is a good idea.

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                #37
                Originally posted by sendit View Post
                Please don't let the wind stop you from going to a range. Shooting in the wind is great practice even at 100 yards. It's part of the learning curve and nesessary to get hands on. Wind calls are probably the hardest thing to do in shooting distance, it will humble the best of them. Investing in kestrel wind meter is a good idea.
                Normally I wouldn't, but I want to take all the guesswork out of the initial workup.

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                  #38
                  Welcome

                  Even though you are not usaing a Nikon scope you can still go to Nikon's Spot On Program and enter your shooting data to get the click adjustments you will need in the field. Once you get your load dialed in, Chronographed and are sure that's all you will shoot you can get your CDS turret made. Nikon offer's the same thing in a Custom Turret. If you plan on switching back and forth between loads that kind of defeats the purpose of your CDS turret. Spot On can also tell you what distance to zero for hunting when you want your impact to be within a certain number of inches. Ryan's Shooting book is excellent too.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by bman940 View Post
                    Even though you are not usaing a Nikon scope you can still go to Nikon's Spot On Program and enter your shooting data to get the click adjustments you will need in the field. Once you get your load dialed in, Chronographed and are sure that's all you will shoot you can get your CDS turret made. Nikon offer's the same thing in a Custom Turret. If you plan on switching back and forth between loads that kind of defeats the purpose of your CDS turret. Spot On can also tell you what distance to zero for hunting when you want your impact to be within a certain number of inches. Ryan's Shooting book is excellent too.
                    Good info. Thank ya sir. The CDS sounds like I can get a lot of use out of it and make my life a lot easier. Just gonna need some trigger time to get the round set up right

                    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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                      #40
                      Trophy 8, Cajun Blake, Sendit's advice is all spot on.

                      A chronograph is a must unless you just want to burn a LOT of ammo trying to figure your drops.

                      Leupold custom shop can change that reticle to a TMOA reticle pretty inexpensively if you just insist on holds for your drop. CDS dial is a good secondary option for dialing, but you are gonna need a chronograph to be accurate.

                      Spend the coin on a good ballistic app and chronograph and go from there. I use iSnipe and as long as I put in the correct info, my dial ups or holds have been dead on.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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