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    #16
    Originally posted by Main Frame View Post
    168 gr Berger VLD's

    I appreciate all of the information and will give the Hornady tool a try.
    I tried those and the 180 VLDs and I couldn't get them to shoot in my savage. The 100 yard groups in testing were no better then 3 inches. No matter the seating depth. But at 400 yards they were still around 3-4 inches so long range was good but the close was not to my liking.

    I ended up switching to 140 barnes tipped TSX and get .50-.75 inch groups at 100 and it mostly stays MOA out to 500.

    Also I tell everyone who shoots VLDs to make sure they weigh the bullets and double check what they weigh. I bought a box of 168's that was full of 180's. Its not usually that big of a deal but when you are at a max load for 168 you are over on 180's.

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      #17
      Originally posted by egress81 View Post
      I tried those and the 180 VLDs and I couldn't get them to shoot in my savage. The 100 yard groups in testing were no better then 3 inches. No matter the seating depth. But at 400 yards they were still around 3-4 inches so long range was good but the close was not to my liking.

      I ended up switching to 140 barnes tipped TSX and get .50-.75 inch groups at 100 and it mostly stays MOA out to 500.

      Also I tell everyone who shoots VLDs to make sure they weigh the bullets and double check what they weigh. I bought a box of 168's that was full of 180's. Its not usually that big of a deal but when you are at a max load for 168 you are over on 180's.
      Good information. I shot the 168's with 70.5 grains of H1000 and was getting around .75"-1.25" groups @ 100 yards. Im hoping the seating depth with close up that grouping some.

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        #18
        I have been using Retumbo as it's supposed to be less temp sensitive. Not that i or the deer would have been able to tell.

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          #19
          VLDs will go a long way before they touch the lands.. maybe even longer than your magazine I've found

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            #20
            Originally posted by Texrock View Post
            You'll also need a bullet comparator and modified case with this gage.
            X2 - The Hornady OAL Gauge and the bullet comparator are one of, if not the best thing you can do for your accuracy in reloading. For less than $50 dollars you can get set up and be able to do precise measurements. That is the only accurate way to really start to compare distances off lands. Your bullet seating depths have more to do with accuracy in a load than anything else in the reloading process.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Gunnyart View Post
              ream out a case neck till you get slight tension on your chosen bullet load it long and carefully chamber it, then measure carefully and subtract your desired jump (maybe .015)
              That's basically what I do too. Seat a bullet pretty deep, then remove the bullet with a collet type remover. Then lube bullet with imperial sizing wax and reseat it, long. Chamber. Measure. Repeat a few times. That's your ogive length for all bullets.

              Use a bullet comparator like this from Sinclair, for measuring to the ogive + the amount of jump you want.

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