If you are yang quality parts torque to spec most bases will be some 25inlb ring cross screws will usually be 35inlb and ring cap screws normally 20inlb
If you are yang quality parts torque to spec most bases will be some 25inlb ring cross screws will usually be 35inlb and ring cap screws normally 20inlb
This blanket statement will have you snapping some and undertightening others. Find the specs either on the package or the website.. if you're just guessing you might as well not even torque.
There is an advantage to using (the correct) Loctite that many do not realize. Torquing without lubrication can cause galling of the threads.
I learned this long ago with large stainless bolts attaching outboards to boats. Without anti-seize, those stainless bolts / nuts would often gall. Once they are "friction welded", your option is to destroy the nut and bolt to get them off. Not fun, especially with a huge outboard hanging there on the hoist. I've seen it done on rings as well - although I will admit, they were cheap rings that I saw it done on. Basically, it galled first, and then broke free as more pressure was applied trying to unscrew them. That in turn stripped the threads and made the rings useless.
Loctite, and similar products, offer a lubrication to the threaded surfaces when torquing to spec.
HOWEVER.... many use the wrong type of Loctite for the job they are performing, and that is generally when they have bad experiences with it. On a firearm, I seldom ever use anything stronger than Blue. Most of the time, I'm reaching for Purple. I seldom ever use Red on anything firearm related on my workbench. I recently learned about Green to be used as a sleeve retainer to hold barrel liners in place, but I've never used it as I haven't done that gunsmith job yet.
I'm not saying anyone is wrong by not using it. Just explaining why I use it.
So why no locktite on the rings? Does it give a false reading on the torque due to less resistance and possibly over tighten?
Either way I don't anything moving later and have always used something.
You put it on the base because there is a metal to metal fit. It's actually a good idea to epoxy and pin the base to the receiver. When a gun gets bumped most people think that it's the scope that's knocked off but it is usually due to the slight amount of slop between the base and the receiver. With the leverage supplied by the scope and a hard fall the bases can move ever so slightly. It doesn't take much.
On the rings there is a space (with tension) between the upper and lower halves. That is if you do them correctly.
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