MOA Shooting Standard Methods??

[Biggs]

I got to shoot a couple of my .223 yesterday and was doing inch groups at 168 yards with a bipod and shoulder. No san****s or props.

Got me thinking, when people state an MOA group, what are the standards?

Yardage? Rests? San****s? Etc...

[trophy8]

I use a front bipod and a rear sand bags. If I can't lay down consistent 1/2 Moa groups with no to minimal wind then something is wrong.

[meltingfeather]

If your goal is 1 MOA or some fraction, then the yardage doesn't matter... it just might be hard to measure at short yardages if you can do 1/2 MOA at 100.
that's all i got.

[Biggs]

Wait, it censors sand bags? Oh D-.bag... Lol

[Waterlogged]

1 MOA = 1 inch at 100 yds
1 MOA = 8 inches at 800 yds
MOA = 1/60 of a degree. Yardage determines the size so adjustment must be made to hit a target

[howabouttheiris]

To test the gun, I shoot with every convenience and score based on group size only. (bipod, san****s, levels, time for barrel cooling, no wind, etc) Typically POI set at least an inch off POA in order to preserve the POA.

To test myself, I shoot whatever setup I choose, but shoot for POI. For example, the following at 100 yards is a great test. A tight group is meaningless if you miss.

"Half MOA Dot Drill". 1 box (20 rnds) to start. 100 yards. 4 warmup/zero/etc, then 16 rounds only on 8.5"x11" paper at the following target. Break inner black solid circle for a pt. X for breaking the white dot bull.

[txsteele]

MOA Shooting Standard Methods??

1 MOA = 1 inch at 100 yds
1 MOA = 8 inches at 800 yds
MOA = 1/60 of a degree. Yardage determines the size so adjustment must be made to hit a target

Didn't know that. Thanks. Thought it was 1 MOA=1 inch at all distances.

[sir shovelhands]

1 MOA = 1 inch at 100 yds
1 MOA = 8 inches at 800 yds
MOA = 1/60 of a degree. Yardage determines the size so adjustment must be made to hit a target

Just an FYI, the first two are estimates, the last one is exact.

1 MOA = 1.047 inches at 100 yards
1 MOA = 8.376 inches at 800 yards

Now many might say, we'll heck, it's only .047 inches, might as well round up! Fine for short distances (<400) but say you're at 800 yards with a 308 and your drop is 220 inches. Well if you adjust your scope based upon the MOA = (1" for every hundred yards) estimate, then 220/8=27.5 MOA, but now you're actually shooting 10 inches high, because 27.5 MOA @ 800 yards is actually 230.34 inches. The farther out you shoot, the more this error stacks.

[Biggs]

So anything goes for assistance with being stable and consistent?

[Slick8]

IMO, yes. If you're talking competition, then they have different rest restrictions depending on the class you're shooting.

If you're testing loads the more you can stabilize the rifle the better.

A front bi-pod and a good rear V bag is a great set up, such as Matt spoke about.

I've started using a front rest and rear bag and while I like the additional adjustments, the front bi-post is just as stable, IMO.

[trophy8]

IMO, yes. If you're talking competition, then they have different rest restrictions depending on the class you're shooting.

If you're testing loads the more you can stabilize the rifle the better.

A front bi-pod and a good rear V bag is a great set up, such as Matt spoke about.

I've started using a front rest and rear bag and while I like the additional adjustments, the front bi-post is just as stable, IMO.

Agreed. I still use a front bag from time to time. I need a new one though as mine is getting worn out and I have to "fluff" it after a few shots haha.

As far as what is allowed? Whatever the rules are for competition but to me, whatever helps a shooter make the most accurate shots possible is what I would say to use. Just know that shooting in a vice all the time isnt going to improve anything except trigger discipline. I havent found one that was very comfortable anyway. I use a rear bag as you can slide it forward and back on most stocks to control elevation and when you need to make a very slight change you just squeeze it a bit. Helps stabilize everything for me. I dont use fancy bags either. I bought a pre packed pair from academy made by caldwell for like $30 or so. I have shot alot of rounds off of them and they do just fine. Far from the best but I needed something that day and never upgraded haha

[txfireguy2003]

I run either a bipod up front and sand bag in rear, or sand bags front and rear. Keep in mind, your point of impact and group size may change slightly from one method to another. I feel I'm slightly more stable on a Harris bipod than a front bag, but the recoil impulse causes a different dynamic going from a rigid bipod to a bag that allows the rifle to slide and recoil straight back. This is why the high end bipods like Atlas have some play or slop in them. The idea is that you "load the bipod" by applying slight forward pressure on the rifle to take the play out, then when you fire, the recoil pushes straight back and the rifle has room to move straight back against your shoulder. With rigid bipods like a Harris, I always end up with the rifle hopping a bit, which means that the barrel is shifting up under recoil instead of straight back like it should. On a front and rear bag, my 308 is a one hole gun at 100 yards, meaning I can barely tell the difference between one shot and five shots (I got super lucky when I bought it, must have been the first rifle they cut with new tools or something). If I put a Harris bipod up front, it's a 1/2-3/4 moa rifle and my impact shifts up and to the left ever so slightly. I just bought an Atlas bipod and haven't had a chance to test it, but I'm hoping it fixes my bipod problem.

[Biggs]

Good information. Thanks guys