Reloading question

[bowhntrmatt]

I just picked up a 264 win mag. It came with around 60 fired brass and a few loaded rounds. I wanted to figure out my max coal for this gun, so I used one of the fired cases.

What I found was that none of the fired brass, or any of the ammo it came with will chamber in the rifle.

The distance from the base of the case to the start of the shoulder is about 40 thousandths longer than the Saami specs.
I now assume that this brass was fired from a different rifle. (I've not yet spoken to the seller).

Is there a way to set up a sizing die to bump back the shoulder that far or do I need to find new brass?

[bowhntrmatt]

Spoke with seller. All this brass has been in this rifle. Any ideas?

[dawgkllr]

Sounds like he didn't resize the cases (previous owner) before he reloaded them last time. Congratulations on the 264! I've got my fathers pre 64 model 70 in 264 Win Mag. Great gun!

[TxNurse]

Have you sized one of the fired cases and tried it in your gun?

[Cajun Blake]

thread FL sizing die into press , you will need to adjust the die until brass can be chambered

if you have a comparator nut, you can take precise measurements before/after sizing brass

based on feel, FL size the brass in small steps 1/8" turn of die . Chamber brass and take measurements. Re-peat multiple times until brass will chamber , and bolt closes w/out resistance.

Use a pencil, or sharpie and mark your die for future reference. Basically "set it, and forget it" . I will only FL size when my brass no longer chambers and bolt handle will no longer close

one of the most important things for reloading is to take accurate and detailed notes. I keep a spiral bound notebook next to my press at all times. Dividers are used for each specific cartridge

[coldgas]

If it was fired through that rifle then it should chamber fired or not.
The unfired brass only needs to be run through a sizing die. You can get a bullet puller to remove the bullet and powder for the loaded rounds before running them through a sizing die. Be sure to remove the de-priming pin from the die.

[Cajun Blake]

forgot to add, I highly recommend using some Imperial die sizing wax

a little goes a long way ,


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRXiI5TDUb0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRXiI5TDUb0[/ame]


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDm_nNkk1KU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDm_nNkk1KU[/ame]

[bowhntrmatt]

The die is set down to where it touches the shell holder. Doesn't seem to even be touching the shoulder.

[bowhntrmatt]

I checked it all individually. One brand of brass works just fine. Another brand won't chamber. Good thing is, I got almost 50 that work.

[dustoffer]

Check the brass for a bright ring or tiny, tiny evidence of a crack that goes around the cartridge case maybe 1/8" - 1/4" or so ahead of the belt which would be evidence of the case stretching due to an overly long chamber. Eventually you could have a case head separation and have the front portion of the brass stuck in the chamber and the short rear portion in your hand.

Any brass that has the bright ring--goes in the scrap bucket.

And, Cajun Blake is right--there is no better reloading lube than the Imperial Sizing Die wax--period.

[bowhntrmatt]

These are the ones that won't chamber. There is a ring directly in front of the belt. Is this what you mean?

[dustoffer]

That's it. If you split the case down the middle length-wise you'll find the thin spot in the brass on the inside. You can also sometimes feel it with a straightened paper clip bent at a 90-degree angle for 1/8" at the tip. Stick the angled end into the case mouth all the way to the case base, and carefully pull it back towards the mouth with the tip of the paper clip scratching against the inside of the case. When it goes into the inside groove you can feel it.

This is a common problem with belted cases when the reloader does a full-length resize each reload which allows the case to stretch because the belt keeps the base of the case in place when you fire the shot and several repeats later you get the separation.--all you need to do is barely "bump" the shoulder enough to chamber and have slight resistance on the bolt handle closing.

Go to Midway USA and search for case gages and comparators -- to get optimum accuracy, I recommend using a chamber length gage and case comparator to enable you to find the actual bolt-face to start of rifling distance so you can load as small as .001" increments off the rifling lands until you find the bullet jump your rifle prefers for best accuracy. The case gauge allows you to measure the amount you are "bumping" the shoulder back on resizing too.

[GasGuzzler]

If it came out of that gun it should go back in. Looks like you already found your problem.

[LWolken]

The RCBS Case Master is very good at detecting and measuring case head seperation. It also measures bullet run out, Neck thickness etc. Not as good as some higher end units but does alot for the money.

[ItsLeo]

I agree with the impending case head separation.

Also take a pair of calipers and measure the case diameter right in front of the belt on cases that fit and ones that don't.

If the diameter is bigger on the ones that don't fit they are probably trying to headspace in the chamber off of the swell in front of the belt. This makes the case stretch more when it's fired because it sets the shoulder farther away in the chamber.

It's true that full length resizing can aggravate the issue but you will eventually get that even if you only neck size. Eventually even neck sizing bumps the shoulder back enough times to get a swell in front of the belt. The stretch gets progressively worse as the swell grows. Eventually after a few firings the case will not chamber after resizing.

Not every belted magnum rifle has this issue but it's not uncommon.

If you use a Larry Willis Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die you can build reloads that reliably and consistently headspace off the case shoulder. This will significantly reduce your case stretch and will also help your reload accuracy.