I am needing to get a new base and rings for my 300. I am in the process of building this gun to be a good long range gun (hopefully out to 1000). I am still trying to decide on the scope right now. Give some good rings and base to look at and what makes one better then the other.
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I run the larue 20 moa base. Best bang for the buck IMO. Badger ordnance, seekins, etc all make good ones but they are more money. As far as rings, take your pick. Tons of good options. All depends on whether you want light weight or not. My 6.5 i am running nightforce ultralights on. They fit the bill great and are light. I found a deal on a used set and snagged em. $120 i think is what i paid. -
What makes the bases you listed better then other ones?Comment
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I like the DNZ single piece mounts. Machined from a solid block and you do not have to lap the rings.
I've converted several of my guns to the DNZ system, they have taken a beating from Alaska to all over the US without issue.
http://www.dnzproducts.com/
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can you please describe your LR rifleOriginally posted by texas bound View Post
make, model, stock, weight, etc....
the reason I ask is b/c certain model guns will yield greater accuracy than others. Additionally, I highly recommend you hand load for optimum accuracy and start at short range yardages 200, 300, 500, etc.. before trying to hit the steel plate at 1000 yds
do you have a spotter , and/or a spotting scope ?
what kind of front and rear rest ?
doping wind may be your biggest problem, especially if shooting a rifle that weighs 8 lbsComment
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I guess it depends on which ones you are comparing them to. With the larue, i am getting a very good machined 20 moa base for under $100. I have also ran an EGW HD 20 moa base on a kimber 308. Pretty close to the same money but they were one of the few who built one.Originally posted by texas bound View Post
The cheap ones may beok, but i havent used them. I dont risk it. That is a direct link between your optics and your rifle. Same with the rings. You can have the best gun in the world and the best scope in the world. If the rings and base suck, you aint got much.
There is a ton of models and sizes and makes to choose from. Blake has alot more experience than i do. He can hook ya up!!Comment
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Model 70 with syn stock. I am keeping the factory stock for now. Not exactly sure on weight but its around 8-9 pounds probably. I will be doing hand loads for this gun just starting to get all my reloading stuff set up now. I do have a spotting scope and spotter and will be putting a bipod on the gun. The gun is being set up more for hunting then bench shooting.Originally posted by Cajun Blake View PostComment
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Thanks that was the answer I was looking for. I figured it had a lot to do with quality of machining and material.Originally posted by trophy8 View PostComment
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X3 on DNZComment
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DNZ all the way. Best out thereComment
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Couple recommendations ....
1. For all common calibers you will need a 20MOA base or you will run out of adjustment before you get to 1000. Holding off is possible, but will make it VERY difficult when adjusting windage. (many adjust elevation and hold wind... or at least tune windage with holdoff)
2. Know what scope you are mounting before you buy rings (not just diameter). You want your rings to be as low as possible, but still able to mount the scope (remember to include the scope sun guard or barrel thermal guard if you are using them) The goal should be to keep the overall height as low as possible. Cant is a huge issue at 1000 yards, where 1 degree is about 5" lateral (or 1/2 MOA).
3. Adding on #2, ensure you have space for a scope level in easy view.
4. Unless you plan to pay a bajillion dollars, go with fixed rings vs QD. I can't afford heavy QD rings that would be repeatable at those distances. Buy 1 piece, 12 screw rings to keep all possible connections to a minimum.
I am not a brand specific guy, but rings are a fine machined part and should be purchased as such. My 2c.Comment
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Originally posted by howabouttheiris View Post
ditto, also be sure to confirm the windage/elevation adjustment range .... if you don't have enough MOA adjustment, you'll never hit the target at 1000 yds. This is where the 20MOA base helps, but know your scope specs
regarding the bipod, IMO you're wasting your time as it will never be repeatable and provide a solid foundation especially when doing load development. Shoot from a rock solid bench that is level when working up loads at various distances (short range first) , then switch to a bipod for hunting once you know your rifle and dopeComment
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Blake that is what I was going to use the bipod for not for range shooting. I will probably build a good bench for that.Originally posted by Cajun Blake View PostComment
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You CAN be accurate on a good bipod. I shoot with an atlas bipod 90% of the time and when i shot that 1.5" group at 500 i was only using a bipod. no shooting mat, no rear bag of any sort.
But it makes it a heck of a lot harder. And cheap bipods suck. The atlas was $250 but its worth every stinking pennyComment
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