Should I buy or build my first AR?

[lovemylegacy]

I need some insight from the AR community:

I am looking at buying my first AR, but I can't decide which route to take? I am wanting a style like the Bushmaster Predator, 20" fluted barrel with metal forearm. I am trying to find the less expensive way and the most options that I am looking for. I wish I could sit down and read the AR thread, but I just dont have that much time in a day.

The first option: I know that I can buy the bushmaster at Cabelas for $1200-$1300 or I found a few on gun broker for $1130. I know if I buy one I may not get all the options I am looking for.

The second option: I have been looking at model1sales.com and can customize the AR to my liking, but I guess I am not smart enough to figure out what else I need to buy to complete my gun if I buy the Varmint Complete Kit. I think buying a kit from them would be less expensive, but not sure what else I would need to purchase. It says I need a Lower parts kit, but I think I am just not reading some right.

I would appreciate any insight from the AR gurus

Buy your 1st one, learn it, then build your 2nd one.

[JP8]

I use Knipex Plier Wrench for roll pins. Check em out. Saves a lot of time and scratches.

Here is a example of a budget build.. No 20"

Ordered a 16" upper with Vortex Strikefire No BCG/CH for $299.00

Ordered 10 Lowers for $499 shipped $20 FFL for all. $52.00 per lower

Ordered a Lower build kit that had a CH/BCG combo in it for $149.99

After shipping on the items it is $553.00

Added a cheap quad rail, AFG, sling, for $50

$603.00 for a budget AR with decent parts and optic. No BCM or Colt but will shoot every time you pull trigger.

[Mike D]

Buy your 1st one, learn it, then build your 2nd one.

^^^^^This. I built my first one and would never do that again. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a ton of inferior crap parts. By the time I swapped them all out for decent parts, I had way more invested than what the gun was worth.

Also, if this is going to be a ride around gun and may be grabbed up for quick shots you are going to grow tired of the longer, heavier 20" barrel and it's really not necessary.

[cas077]

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...dle-15620.html

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/lower-receivers/anderson-lower-receiver.html

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/build-kits/palmetto-state-armory-enhanced-lower-build-kit-blk.html

Here is your 550$ 20" AR.

What twist is best for a 20" barrel? This one is 1/7, I am trying to build one comparable to Bushmaster Predator. My dad has a predator and that thing will shoot a snuff can at 300 yards, the twist on his is 1/8. Is that better or worst?

[aac_shooter]

If you plan on keeping it then build your own. If you are going to sell it later, then buy one. You will usually not get as much for a Frankenbuild as you would a factory built rifle.

[txfireguy2003]

What twist is best for a 20" barrel? This one is 1/7, I am trying to build one comparable to Bushmaster Predator. My dad has a predator and that thing will shoot a snuff can at 300 yards, the twist on his is 1/8. Is that better or worst?

Barrel length is irrelevant when dealing with twist rate, twist rate defines what bullets it will shoot accurately. The longer bullets require a faster twist rate, the shorter bullets will stabilize fine in a slow twist. A 1-7 twist will stabilize the longest bullets out there I believe, but a 1-9 will not. In small caliber rifles like a 223, twist rate is pretty critical because in order to make a bullet 10gr heavier, it has to grow in length since it can't grow in diameter. For say, a 30 cal rifle, 10gr of bullet weight will not amount to hardly anything in bullet length, but for a 22 cal rifle, 10gr makes a significant difference. It's better to be too fast of a twist as the bullet will still stabilize, but if you're twist is too slow, you will have a bullet tumbling down range and hitting the target (if it even hits it) sideways, that's never good for accuracy. The only problem with spinning the bullet too fast is when dealing with real lightweight varmint bullets, occasionally they will spin apart in the air and never reach the target, too much RPM on light bullets will cause the centrifugal force to rip them apart. A 1-7 is good for the 55-77 gr range IIRC, 1-9 is good up to about 65 gr, 1-8 would be a good middle ground, so, it really depends on what bullets you want to shoot out of it, which is determined by what critters you want to kill with it.

The exception to the rule would be the Barnes bullets. Because copper is not as dense as lead, a 65gr Barnes will be considerably longer than a 65gr standard cup and core bullet, meaning that it will require a faster twist barrel to stabilize.

[offroadodge]

look at model1sale.com as well. PSA is good, and guns shows for lower build kits. Its fun to build. I just got a 762x39 upper complete here on TBH and it shoots great.

[Easttxbowhunter]

If you build it will mean a lot more to you, only thing is after you build one you will want to build another, I built mine on a small budge then I built my father inlaws on an unlimited budget. its almost addicting

[aftex99]

I would Build

[Kankles]

following, thinking about building for myself and 3 kiddoes.

palmetto would be the way to go, you can build a standard carbine ar for around $450 bucks

[JP Weld]

I guess I will be pretty much the only one to say buy, but I am no fan of frankenguns unless they are built with premium parts by a smith..

[Kankles]

If you build it will mean a lot more to you, only thing is after you build one you will want to build another, I built mine on a small budge then I built my father inlaws on an unlimited budget. its almost addicting

I was able to get the serial number of my lower to be my birthday...

It is very addicting

[freezerfiller]

Marked for later reference

[cphlandman]

It also depends on how much you want to "build".
If you're handy and have access to a vertical mill you can buy a 80% lower and finish it out yourself and get to chose your own serial number PLUS you don't have to go through an FFL.
I just ordered 3 of these AR-10/DPMS lowers and they are in transit

http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/TACMHDM8

Build one... it's addictive

[Mike D]

It also depends on how much you want to "build".
If you're handy and have access to a vertical mill you can buy a 80% lower and finish it out yourself and get to chose your own serial number PLUS you don't have to go through an FFL.
I just ordered 3 of these AR-10/DPMS lowers and they are in transit

http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/TACMHDM8

Build one... it's addictive

Hope you like that 80% lower build cause you are stuck with it.