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    7-08 build

    OK, this is what Ive got. I have matched a 700 Remmy to HS Precision stock that is Pillared and bedded. What should be my next step to increase accuracy? Shooting .75-1 1/8" groups with Fed Prem Partitions.

    #2
    Hand loads ?

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      #3
      What trigger do you have?

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        #4
        A rifle is only as good as the glass that sets on it.

        After that I'd look into trigger.

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          #5
          Originally posted by lovemylegacy View Post
          OK, this is what Ive got. I have matched a 700 Remmy to HS Precision stock that is Pillared and bedded. What should be my next step to increase accuracy? Shooting .75-1 1/8" groups with Fed Prem Partitions.
          Trigger
          Good glass
          Float the barrel
          Bed the action
          Hand loads

          Comment


            #6
            3/4" group is not bad. You can try handloads, better trigger, custom barrel, better scope. sounds like you already have a good stock. I would start with the cheapest thing i could do to improve accuracy and go from there!

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              #7
              Xmark trigger, barrel is floated, action is bedded and pillared, I have a low end Vortex and have a new scope in my sights, hand loading is next I guess. I looked into a new barrel, but it was expensive and lengthy turnaround. Good info everyone I appreciate it, more is welcomed if ya got it.

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                #8
                Originally posted by lovemylegacy View Post
                Xmark trigger, barrel is floated, action is bedded and pillared, I have a low end Vortex and have a new scope in my sights, hand loading is next I guess. I looked into a new barrel, but it was expensive and lengthy turnaround. Good info everyone I appreciate it, more is welcomed if ya got it.
                Yup better glass then step up to a timney or a Jewell. Your groups will improve when you can see what your shooting at and are able to touch off a round exactly when you want to.

                When building a rifle, especially on a budget I fix the weakest link first, then continue until I'm confident with the firearm... Then I start another project and it just sets in the safe until I get another wild hair

                (Sorry about that exclamation mark triangle in the top left corner... I fat fingered the buttons and ended up with it... And now can't remove it. )

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                  #9
                  Practice is always good too. form.

                  I have a really nice rifle setup with lots of those things too and I still suck. I need more practice.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Coach W View Post
                    Yup better glass then step up to a timney or a Jewell. Your groups will improve when you can see what your shooting at and are able to touch off a round exactly when you want to.

                    When building a rifle, especially on a budget I fix the weakest link first, then continue until I'm confident with the firearm... Then I start another project and it just sets in the safe until I get another wild hair

                    (Sorry about that exclamation mark triangle in the top left corner... I fat fingered the buttons and ended up with it... And now can't remove it. )
                    Been saving for a scope, just about there, however dont want more scope than I can operate.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by lovemylegacy View Post
                      Xmark trigger, barrel is floated, action is bedded and pillared, I have a low end Vortex and have a new scope in my sights, hand loading is next I guess. I looked into a new barrel, but it was expensive and lengthy turnaround. Good info everyone I appreciate it, more is welcomed if ya got it.
                      3/4" ~ 1" is very respectable for a factory hunting rifle especially with your aforementioned components

                      Are you sure it's pillared and glass bedded ? (see pics below)

                      HS stocks have an machined aluminum bedding block inserted into the stock as I've never seen one pillar bedded before. The bedding block rarely has 100% contact with the action, as I'd recommend skim bedding the action and making sure the recoil lug is bedded with full barrel contact 1-2" in front of the lug.

                      as others have mentioned, (1) replace the trigger with a Jewell, Shilen, or Timney based on your wallet ....then (2) step up in quality optics that are crystal clear , minimum 16x preferably with a Adj, Objective, and repeatable turrets , (3) lap the scope rings for optimum contact with the scope tube (4) hand load for precision accuracy (5) replace barrel if not satisfied - cost will be around $625

                      what type of shooting bench, front rest, and rear rest are you currently shooting off of ? If you want repeatable tiny groups, a stable platform with solid rest are pretty important.

                      Do you clean your rifle, and if so, how often ? and with what cleaning tools ?

                      Your first shot should always be a "fouler" to season the bore and remove any cleaning chemicals residue, then followed by a 3 or 5 shot group . I shoot my groups based on weather condition (wind) and take my time (2-3 minutes) to shoot the group for size.

                      I handload at the range with an Oehler 35P chrono using Wilson benchrest hand dies. I load 6-7 rds and shoot a 5 shot group for size. I'm pretty **** and OCD about my rifles and shooting equipment since I'm addicted to precision 1 hole group accuracy .

                      I don't own any factory rifles, all are custom built to benchrest specifications /tolerances and utilized in a hunting rifle platform.

                      pillar/glass bedded stock


                      HS stock w/ machined aluminum bedding block fit into stock


                      HS stock that has been skim bedded for 100% contact (rear tang area not shown)

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                        #12
                        Starting with the trigger, I like the Xmark Pro, mine is down to 2#, about as light as I want to go and it is crisp/no creep. I have an adjustable rest that I can shoot the rifle with minimum contact. The stock I purchased was ordered and labeled as bedded and pillared, priced at over 400, got it on clearance for less.I dont know if I have the confidence to skim a 400 dollar stock....just being honest.I have an older 700 I could practice on, I guess. When I shoot I start with a clean barrel and as you stated, "foul" one off. I shoot 3-5 shots, clean and repeat.Rifle has been broken in using a break in procedure. When I leave the range the rifle stays as is after last shot "dirty". I do not handload so Im shooting factory ammo. The barrel, I have talked to the maker that I liked and he was talking almost a year turnaround so I scrapped that idea. Cajun Blake I really appreciate this, very knowledgeable. Do you think I really need to replace the XMark trigger to hunt with? Any more comments would be welcomed.

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                          #13
                          Barrel and handloads. There are so many adjustable variables that can truly increase accuracy with a hand loads. Primers, podwer, bullets, depth of the bullet seating. Using the exact same with all of the aforementioned but simply adjusting the depth of a bullets seating a few hundredths of an inch can increase/decrease accuracy by .5". Not hand loading is like giving a fat lady a make over and expecting her head shots to look like those of a 90lb model. Also partitions aren't designed for accuracy. There designed to bring down big game. You'll never unlcok a rifles full potential without handloads...my 2 cents.
                          Last edited by JBJTX81; 01-03-2014, 01:16 PM.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by JBJTX81 View Post
                            Barrel and handloads. There are so many adjustable variables that can truly increase accuracy with a hand loads. Primers, podwer, bullets, depth of the bullet seating. Using the exact same with all of the aforementioned but simply adjusting the depth of a bullets seating a few hundredths of an inch can increase/decrease accuracy by .5". Not hand loading is like giving a fat lady a make over and expecting her head shots to look like those of a 90lb model. Also partitions aren't designed for accuracy. There designed to bring down big game. You'll never unlcok a rifles full potential without handloads...my 2 cents.
                            Yea, handloading is probably my next step, however, for whatever reason Partitions shoot great out of my rifle. The worst was Hornadys. The adjustable variables is what gets me, by nature I am not as ****. as alot guys. A lot for my feeble mind to keep track of, how do you do it. I have couple of friends that reload and I still dont know how they do it. I have purchased a Nosler Handloading Manual, my 1st step. Thanx for your 2 cents, I can use it. Calvin

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                              #15
                              what other loads have you tried? Neither of our 7-08's would shoot the Fed Prem any better than yours but shoot the Barnes Vortex consistently did considerably better

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