Grind to fit butt pad....

[Slick8]

What's the advantage to buying one that needs to be fitted compared to one that's made for the gun already?

The pre fit pads are never more than close.

I've done a few over the years and have learned to stay away from limb savers. Too soft and turn gumny after a year or two. Not sure if they've fixed that or not.

I'd go with a Pachmayr pad. Tried and true.

The last time I checked at carters country is was $35 to install. Even if it's $50, it's worth the money considering your time unless you're looking to learn a new skill.

Good luck.

[Skinny]

The pre fit pads are never more than close.



I've done a few over the years and have learned to stay away from limb savers. Too soft and turn gumny after a year or two. Not sure if they've fixed that or not.



I'd go with a Pachmayr pad. Tried and true.



The last time I checked at carters country is was $35 to install. Even if it's $50, it's worth the money considering your time unless you're looking to learn a new skill.



Good luck.

You nailed it.

I bought an H n' R .223 for my daughter. The LOP is 14 1/4 and she needs about 11 1/2 or so. Kelsey aka Oval-o sent me a stock he had cut down for his daughter so I didn't have to cut the factory one. I called a gunsmith in Springtown today and he said $55 for the labor and whatever for the butt pad.

He said the same thing about the Limbsavers gumming up and being junk.

Thanks y'all

Skinny

[iamntxhunter]

You nailed it.

I bought an H n' R .223 for my daughter. The LOP is 14 1/4 and she needs about 11 1/2 or so. Kelsey aka Oval-o sent me a stock he had cut down for his daughter so I didn't have to cut the factory one. I called a gunsmith in Springtown today and he said $55 for the labor and whatever for the butt pad.

He said the same thing about the Limbsavers gumming up and being junk.

Thanks y'all

Skinny

I have a limbsaver and it turned soft on me and sticks to the inside of my gun case. I had mine done about 7 years ago and it cost me 50.00.

[grizzman]

I've done a couple with pre-fit and they have always required some grinding and re-drilling the holes. As far as durability, I like the Kick-Eez pads.

[DRT]

I've used a belt sander to do several. All of them looked as good as the one I paid a gunsmith to do. Most of them better. Take your time and tape the stock with scotch tape. When you hit the tape stop. Use a fine enough grit when you get close and clamp the belt sander to a saw horse and work the stock.

[Skinny]

I've used a belt sander to do several. All of them looked as good as the one I paid a gunsmith to do. Most of them better. Take your time and tape the stock with scotch tape. When you hit the tape stop. Use a fine enough grit when you get close and clamp the belt sander to a saw horse and work the stock.

Like!!! I'm a definite DIY guy so I may try doing this on another rifle/stock I have.

Skinny

[bboswell]

I have done several on guns that I knew would be outgrown by my kids quickly and they came out good. On a nice lifetime gun it is worth paying someone with the proper tools.

[TxNurse]

When this thread started, I thought you were talking about a more expensive gun. For a Handi Rifle, I would do it myself on a belt sander. Have done some that way myself, and as long as you take it slow, looks pretty good.

[Skinny]

When this thread started, I thought you were talking about a more expensive gun. For a Handi Rifle, I would do it myself on a belt sander. Have done some that way myself, and as long as you take it slow, looks pretty good.

Well I'm kinda talking about guns in general...not just the cheap prize possession of my 8 year old.

Skinny

[Capt Glenn]

I have done a few and it isn't hard but it does take a time or two to get them to look what I would consider 'good'. Just go slow. You can always take more off but it is dang hard to put material back on.

The tricky part to me is getting the toe angle right. Also getting everything nice and smooth with no little dug in spots. A jig and good belt sanding setup make this much easier.

I have done them on the stock and off. I prefer to scribe a line with the pad on the stock, remove the pad from the stock and then grind the pad off the stock. The good thing about doing your own is you can shape it how you want it. I have a 20 ga I put a pad on to lengthen the LOP a half inch and I was able to round the edge on the heel and down the sides so that it doesn't catch on my shirt.

I have Limbsavers, Kick Eez and Pachmayrs. I prefer the Kick Eez pads. You can order them from Brownells. Not cheap but they are good.

[Slick8]

I've used a belt sander to do several. All of them looked as good as the one I paid a gunsmith to do. Most of them better. Take your time and tape the stock with scotch tape. When you hit the tape stop. Use a fine enough grit when you get close and clamp the belt sander to a saw horse and work the stock.

I've used this method except I use aluminum tape.

And I agree with Costal Ducks, getting the toe angle to match the stock is the hard part.

Since your talking about an in-expensive rifle it's a good learning tool if you have the time.

I used a 4" belt sander on mine.

BTW-if the stock needs refinishing then the hole tape thing isn't required. Just sand to fit and refinish.

[Rhaas90]

Gunsmith