I use the Hornady LNL modified case. How I learned to get very consistent measurements is... Take the correctly sized coated or carbon fiber cleaning rod with no jag. Gently guide the cleaning rod down the bore. Next take the LNL modified case and hornady tool with the bullet inside the modified case. Place into the chamber. Slowly press the grey rod on the LNL tool till you just barely touch the lands. Then hold both the cleaning rod and grey LNL tool to just tap back and forth just touching the lands back and forth a few times to get a certain feel of the bullet touching the lands. Lock down the grey rod on the LNL tool and you can confidently remove... Doesn't matter if the bullet falls off or no as you have the grey plunger rod locked down. Replace the bullet back onto thr LNL tool then take the measurement and record the number. I will repeat the process a few times to get a confirmed number record that number for that bullet. You should be able to repeat this measurement when you take your time. You will need to do this for different size and brand bullets.
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Reloading - Seating depth*****
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Originally posted by JohnnyI View PostI use the Hornady LNL modified case. How I learned to get very consistent measurements is... Take the correctly sized coated or carbon fiber cleaning rod with no jag. Gently guide the cleaning rod down the bore. Next take the LNL modified case and hornady tool with the bullet inside the modified case. Place into the chamber. Slowly press the grey rod on the LNL tool till you just barely touch the lands. Then hold both the cleaning rod and grey LNL tool to just tap back and forth just touching the lands back and forth a few times to get a certain feel of the bullet touching the lands. Lock down the grey rod on the LNL tool and you can confidently remove... Doesn't matter if the bullet falls off or no as you have the grey plunger rod locked down. Replace the bullet back onto thr LNL tool then take the measurement and record the number. I will repeat the process a few times to get a confirmed number record that number for that bullet. You should be able to repeat this measurement when you take your time. You will need to do this for different size and brand bullets.
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Originally posted by Cajun Blake View Postthe slit in the brass neck has enough tension to old the bullet securely. You can slide the bullet in/out of the case by hand pressure, as it won't fall out. Closing the bolt pushes the bullet into the case, as it's secured with neck tension.
The bullet will not get stuck in the lands because it is allowed to seat itself during bolt closure. Bullet won't fall out of case during bolt removal b/c it's held on tightly by neck tension
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Originally posted by Tommyh View PostWhen you start making rounds, do you back off any to allow jump or do you keep the exact depth as it comes out of the chamber?
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Originally posted by Tommyh View PostWhen you start making rounds, do you back off any to allow jump or do you keep the exact depth as it comes out of the chamber?
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Originally posted by Tommyh View PostWhen you start making rounds, do you back off any to allow jump or do you keep the exact depth as it comes out of the chamber?
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Bullet seating has more to do with accuracy than anything else IMHO. Invest in the Hornady Lock-n-load case length gauge and bullet comparator, maybe $50-60 dollars total and learn to use them. It will make all the difference in your groups and accuracy. I used the old sharpie on the bullet method for a lot of years but that marginal at best.
Do it right and you will be rewarded with a much higher level of accuracy.
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And then you have rifles that just go completely against conventional wisdom. I have a custom 257 Weatherby that has a huge amount of jump to the lands, but will shoot 1/4" groups with factory ammo all day.
I tried seating a 115 Brger to the lands with it and there wasn't even enough bullet base in the case for it to hold.
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