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Loading the .357 Magnum

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    #16
    Originally posted by TacticalCowboy View Post
    H110/win296

    titegroup for plinking loads in .38
    X2

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      #17
      38’s unique. Full power 2400

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        #18
        Originally posted by Txhunter3000 View Post
        I use 296.
        Yes, 296 and 231 have very narrow ranges in the manuals. Read years ago that especially 296 was capable of double ignition in load development by going below the recommended minimums. Not really sure what that means or does. I've reloaded many, many rounds of 357 using 296, and never had a problem, but I was going for max. power when doing so.
        I haven't reloaded in many years, but still have my equipment and a lot of components for pistol, rifle, and shotgun. Some of my safe queens have never shot a factory round. Have and old early '70's vintage south paw 700 BDL in .270 Win. that's like that. I had/have other .270's that I used to work up my hunting loads, so when I got me a south paw bolt gun, I was ready to go. Tried 2 of my loads in it. It liked them both, so never even bought any factory ammo for it... Still probably have a hundred rounds or so, which is likely to be handed down to my grandsons, since I haven't rifle hunted for deer since about '95....

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          #19
          Under minimum loads with 296 or 231 can lead to excessive pressures. I’m sure I’ve read the why of it but all I need to know is not to do it. I very seldom load the “rocks and dynamite” loads in anything, it’s not needed unless you are hunting something other than what we see in East Texas. I would rather load heavy for caliber bullets at less than the highest velocities. It make for less recoil and muzzle blast, and that’s a good thing !

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            #20
            I believe that the problem with "under loading" or loads with not enough 296, was hang-fires, which I've had happen in the past when I first started using it. Heavy crimps are super important. So, I'd start in the middle of the load suggestions and work up. Otherwise, H110 or 2400 make great choices for hog stoppers. Blue Dot is another great powder for both 357 and 44 mag. And many others. But sometimes hard to find right now. Unique is great for conservative powders if you can find it. I've used it to load 38, 12ga shotshells, 9mm, and many more. 4.0-4.5gr is what I've used in both .38 sp and 9mm plinking loads with standard pistol primers. It can be used with some 357 and 44Mag loads as well. Consult your manual on all loads. I used to get a box of reclaimed lead 158gr already waxed and sized, 1500 quantity for really cheap back in the 1980s. It was pretty cheap till lead got the hazmat tax. Cost me lil over $2.00 to reload a 50rd box of 38Spl for plinking and practice back then. Now, the same retailer/gun shop/range has another company reclaim the lead shot out of their trap and skeet fields, and sells it for a little less than new shot. And they don't mess with bullets anymore. I don't know what they do with the lead from the rifle and pistol ranges any more.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Texas Grown View Post
              I believe that the problem with "under loading" or loads with not enough 296, was hang-fires, which I've had happen in the past when I first started using it. Heavy crimps are super important. So, I'd start in the middle of the load suggestions and work up. Otherwise, H110 or 2400 make great choices for hog stoppers. Blue Dot is another great powder for both 357 and 44 mag. And many others. But sometimes hard to find right now. Unique is great for conservative powders if you can find it. I've used it to load 38, 12ga shotshells, 9mm, and many more. 4.0-4.5gr is what I've used in both .38 sp and 9mm plinking loads with standard pistol primers. It can be used with some 357 and 44Mag loads as well. Consult your manual on all loads. I used to get a box of reclaimed lead 158gr already waxed and sized, 1500 quantity for really cheap back in the 1980s. It was pretty cheap till lead got the hazmat tax. Cost me lil over $2.00 to reload a 50rd box of 38Spl for plinking and practice back then. Now, the same retailer/gun shop/range has another company reclaim the lead shot out of their trap and skeet fields, and sells it for a little less than new shot. And they don't mess with bullets anymore. I don't know what they do with the lead from the rifle and pistol ranges any more.
              I’m going to explore my Alliant #7 and #9 a little after I get time to do it. They kinda bracket 2400 on the burn rate chart so I should be able to do something good with one of them if not both.

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                #22
                H110 on full loads. Unique on 38 cast bullets. Back a few years ago i would shoot 38 about like a .22. They sure are quiet suppressed

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                  #23
                  Reloading cast bullets, just about any target shotgun powder will work, like red dot, Clays, unique, etc.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Drycreek3189 View Post
                    Under minimum loads with 296 or 231 can lead to excessive pressures. I’m sure I’ve read the why of it but all I need to know is not to do it. I very seldom load the “rocks and dynamite” loads in anything, it’s not needed unless you are hunting something other than what we see in East Texas. I would rather load heavy for caliber bullets at less than the highest velocities. It make for less recoil and muzzle blast, and that’s a good thing !
                    This is very true with H110/296. Those are high energy elastic powders. If there’s any space between the powder and bullet base, that’s where your pressure spike occurs. Imagine a violent explosive abruptly slamming into the base of the bullet.

                    if you ever noticed publish data with H110/296, there’s not a lot of difference between the min and max.

                    keep in mind these powders where originally designed for small bore shotgun.

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