Scope and rifle question

[ctom87]

I'd like to get my scope properly mounted. I have a Tikka T3x in 6.5 PRC and the scope I have for it is a Sig Sauer Sierra3 BDX 6.5-20x52mm.

I had it mounted, took it out to zero and was missing low. I maxed out the vertical travel and was still about an inch low.

I sent the scope to Sig Sauer under the lifetime warranty and they confirmed that nothing was wrong with it.

Here's where I am no where near as familiar as most on here might be when it comes to scopes and rifles... I was told I need something like this to give me the extra height I need.

Unfortunately that was a year ago, and I never got around to it until recently. I haven't bought anything yet, and to be honest I couldn't remember the product I was recommended, so I took it to a gunsmith, explained the issue, explained the possible solution, and explained that I'd be willing to pay for extra parts if he could mount the scope and bore sight it to his satisfaction so that I could get my rifle zeroed.

They just mounted the dad gum scope and told me what I already knew, it didn't have the travel to zero. Frustration ensued, they wanted $45, I told them I wasn't paying because the problem was fully explained and you did nothing but tell me what I already knew. (This also took over 2 weeks and they never had to order parts.) They did mention that the bell on the scope is too wide for the caliber. I understand what they are saying but I don't understand what the caliber has to do with it...

Anyway all that to say I have 2 weeks before I start my new job and I have to scratch the itch. I've had this gun a year and a have and it's never been zeroed. It's going to be a great rifle, I hope that I can use a great scope, and I hope to never buy another rifle ever again. (My fingers were crossed when I told that to my wife.) Is the 20 MOA rail what I need? Does this raise the scope up? Does it cant the scope? If it does cant the scope, is it not necessary to be parallel with the barrel for accuracy out to distances?

Many thanks...I know it's a long read.

[doright]

I can't solve your problem, but I had a similar issue. My problem was left to right noy up and down. I had 3 different gunsmiths try and bore sight it and even sent the scope back for inspection. The issue was the front ring was out of alignment. Turned it 180 degrees and solved the issue. Try swapping rings and see if that helps.

[masonred]

I've seen a shim made from aluminum can used. This was for an older 22 military trainer and a med level used scope. It worked but a new rifle scope and rings of that quality shouldn't need a fix of this type. New rings would be the place I'd start. Good luck

[Killer]

Get the right rings and mount for that set up. There are dozens of different types
There is nothing wrong with the scope or gun from what you explained

[McClain]

So if I understand correctly, after mounting your rifle was shooting too low at your zero range (100 or 200 yards) and you didn’t have enough adjustment in the elevation turret to bring up to zero? If so, my first question would be - were you turning the turret in the right direction? Secondly, do you perhaps have a canted (10 or 20 MOA) base or rings mounted backwards?

[ColinR]

OP where do you live?

[Rswan13]

Could you post pics of the current setup? Id be questioning the rings and/or mount to start like others have mentioned.

[Chase4556]

First thought in my mind, not knowing the actual setup or parts bought, is a 20MOA rail coupled with possible MOA canted Rings, stacking up to give you possibly 40moa to overcome from the get go. That scope only has 40MOA of adjustment on both the windage and elevation, compared to some others(pulled a Leupold VX3 real quick) that have up to 70MOA. That is what prevents you from zeroing, but you still should be able to do it with the 40moa you have.

Can you let us know exactly what products you are running on the rifle? This should be something pretty simple to fix.

[Chase4556]

Anyway all that to say I have 2 weeks before I start my new job and I have to scratch the itch. I've had this gun a year and a have and it's never been zeroed. It's going to be a great rifle, I hope that I can use a great scope, and I hope to never buy another rifle ever again. (My fingers were crossed when I told that to my wife.) Is the 20 MOA rail what I need? Does this raise the scope up? Does it cant the scope? If it does cant the scope, is it not necessary to be parallel with the barrel for accuracy out to distances?

Many thanks...I know it's a long read.

I saw when I quoted this that you put a link to an area 419 20moa rail. That may be what you need, but without knowing what you are currently running and the setup as it sits, you may not.

The 20MOA rail doesn’t always RAISE the scope up, but yes it does cant the scope down. This allows you to be in the BOTTOM half of your total elevation travel. IE:40MOA in the scope, and being zeroed in the middle and having somewhere near 20MOA up and 20MOA down of adjustment, you will be zeroed in the bottom half and have maybe have 50MOA of upward elevation travel. This allows you to dial up for those long range shots.

It is not necessary to be parallel to the barrel for long range accuracy. Take a look at the scope mounts the folks shooting 3000+ yards looks like. Dang scope is pointed toward the ground with the rifle level. Haha.

[Walker]

Google your scope elevation stop. I bet you can take the torrent off and go passed the stop.

[ctom87]

So if I understand correctly, after mounting your rifle was shooting too low at your zero range (100 or 200 yards) and you didn’t have enough adjustment in the elevation turret to bring up to zero? If so, my first question would be - were you turning the turret in the right direction? Secondly, do you perhaps have a canted (10 or 20 MOA) base or rings mounted backwards?

Yes, low at 100, didn't have enough adjustment. I was low like 18 inches or something pretty big. I did like 40 or 50 clicks and was still about an inch low. The turret was being correctly turned. I was making progress towards zero. I don't have a base mounted on there yet.

ColinR, I am in Hurst.

RSwan13, pic posted.

Chase4556, thanks for the info.

Appreciate all the help fellas. I think this is an easy fix but dang how come the gunsmith doesn't know all this? Ha, I figured since I stumped an expert this might be complex.

[McClain]

Hmmm, I’m not familiar with those rifles. Is that a built-in weaver mount on that action? Does it also have the option of mounting a scope base on the receiver? Seems to me something in your set up is canted, but wrongly so, either the rings or that built in setup is not meant to support typical rings as you have it set up. Sorry I am not able to be more helpful, just not familiar with that receiver.

[Monark]

Buy these Leupold mounts & start over. I have never used those squeeze type mount in your picture except for a .22.

https://www.leupold.com/backcountry-tikka-t-3-t3x-hunter-2-pc-1-in-med-matte

I just went back to your original post. I see you have a 55mm objective. You may have to buy a taller mount but they are available.

[justletmein]

Those Tikka dovetails drive me nuts. Wouldn't be surprised if you have a set of 20 MOA Tikka dovetail rings and they're mounted backwards.
edit: Looking at the pic I can almost see it, but not sure if it's bias in my eye looking for confirmation. You might measure and see.
edit2: If it'll accept a Picatinny rail I'd absolutely be slapping a rail on it.

[Chase4556]

So no rail to deal with. There HAS to be something up with those rings. I’m going with those are 20MOA rings but they are installed backward like Justletmein said. I would put a set of calipers on them and see what they measure out at.

Or ditch the dovetail and get a rail(20moa or not) and a pair of rings and see what happens.

https://warnescopemounts.com/v4t3-20moa-tikka-t3-vapor-picatinny-rail/

https://warnescopemounts.com/515m-warne-30mm-pa-high-matte-rings/