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    Scope Leveling Tool

    What are y'all using to insure your crosshairs are level when mounting a scope?

    #2
    I do have a small bubble level I use sometimes but I usually just eyeball the vertical to the center of the barrel.

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      #3
      First you have to make sure the gun remains level. For that, I use Wheeler’s Professional Reticle Leveling System is by far the best AND easiest. IMO of course. You set the small level on top of the receiver (east and west), level the gun, attach the other level to the barrel, and adjust until that one is level and matches the level on the receiver. You can then remove the level from on top of the receiver. Then start with mounting the scope.

      If the scope has a flat base, set it on a perfectly level surface (level the surface if necessary). The base of the scope is what all of the internals are “calibrated” to (not really the correct term but you get the drift). In other words, the vertical line of the crosshairs is perfectly perpendicular with the base of the scope. If it isn’t, trash the scope or send it back. If the windage knob won’t allow it to sit on the level surface, use several washers to set the scope on. Place a level east and west on the elevation turret and see if the elevation turret is level. If it isn’t, turn the elevation turret until you find spot where the level will actually read level. Leave the elevation turret in that position. You can now use the elevation turret to place your level on when mounting the scope. Follow that and it’s fool proof. However, I have had one scope that had a “plug” at an angle on the bottom of the scope. I simply ground down the plug and was able to use my method.

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        #4
        Sig Whiskey 5 and Tango 6 have internal light level that light up to either side when the scope is canted one way or the other. If the rifle is setting level then when you mount the scope you just twist it one way or the other to turn the internal light off. That's the easy way.
        On other scopes I will hang a string bob or plumb bob out in front of the gun and line the vertical reticle up directly on the string. A black string against a white background works best. This of course, the gun must be locked down perfectly level. Next I tighten the ring screws alternating from side to side equal amounts until tight enough to torque to spec to keep the rings from twisting the scope tube over to one side which will happen if you tighten one side too much. Like torquing a set of heads on a motor you must alternate tightening the ring screws.

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          #5
          I use the level kit made by wheeler. But even with some fine high end scopes you will end up with a canted reticle unless you eyeball it or use the rope/string method.

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            #6
            I have the Wheeler leveling kit, but I can usually eyeball just as close, but then I’m not shooting at ranges over 200 yards anymore.

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