Alright sports photographers, I have a Nikon D3100 and a Nikon D7100. The D7100 is my new toy and I'm looking for my best options to set up for indoor soccer, it's dimly lit with non stop action. What lens should I target for this type of photography? Thanks for any and all advice in advance!
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Originally posted by Chad C View PostAlright sports photographers, I have a Nikon D3100 and a Nikon D7100. The D7100 is my new toy and I'm looking for my best options to set up for indoor soccer, it's dimly lit with non stop action. What lens should I target for this type of photography? Thanks for any and all advice in advance!
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I had a feeling that would be the lens that was brought up. The fields are really small, it's my sons team so it's for personal reasons. I want that lens, but I'm not sure I'm ready to cut that check. I thought about maybe getting the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 to get started. I know it doesn't have the reach, but these fields are only 80 yds x 40 yds.
I should have mentioned that, but that being said. What do y'all think about the Sig 24-70?
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Following as I'm new to the game but as Shane mentioned 2.8 apature is a must for indoor low light.
My finance was taking photos of deer at 50 yards with her 24-70 2.8 on a Sony and it was still pretty dang far even with some cropping. Also megapixels becomes a factor there I would imagine.
We'll see if I'm wrong though
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Originally posted by Chad C View PostI had a feeling that would be the lens that was brought up. The fields are really small, it's my sons team so it's for personal reasons. I want that lens, but I'm not sure I'm ready to cut that check. I thought about maybe getting the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 to get started. I know it doesn't have the reach, but these fields are only 80 yds x 40 yds.
I should have mentioned that, but that being said. What do y'all think about the Sig 24-70?
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Originally posted by Shane View PostSigma would be good to start (maybe even to keep, I don't know). On the Nikon lens, you don't have to have the VR version. I shoot Canon and have the Canon non-image stabilization version of their 70-200. I shoot on a monopod, and that solves any hand shake problem that the more expensive image stabilizing lens would solve, and it's just as effective. You still need fast shutter speeds to stop the action on the field, and the VR lens won't be any different one way or another for that. High ISOs and larger apertures in dim light will get you faster shutter speeds.
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Originally posted by Casey View PostDon't be afraid of used lenses either. You can save some cash and get serviceable equipment doing this. I've bought several used lenses in the past and they're still performing.
My best body I have is the D7100 which I recently picked up for $700 (I'm skeered of the high dollar rigs), dang expensive hobbies are killin the pocket book. lol
Is there a prefered shop to buy used glass from online while targeting some local shops as well?Last edited by Chad C; 01-30-2017, 01:16 PM.
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Originally posted by Chad C View PostThis is probably the direction I'm headed. It appears the non VR version is the 80-200mm f/2.8 which runs $1200 new and the 70-200 f/2.8 runs $2100 - $2800.
My best body I have is the D7100 which I recently picked up for $700 (I'm skeered of the high dollar rigs), dang expensive hobbies are killin the pocket book. lol
Is there a prefered shop to buy used glass from online while targeting some local shops as well?
B&H and Adorama are a couple. Also, you can rent a lens from lens rental and if you like it then buy it. I have not done the last option but they have it listed to do so.
Good Luck!!!
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Also, part of the reason you want to shoot at 2.8 is so the background is well out of focus. Shoot super high ISO. You want your shutter speed to be shooting at 1/500 at the very least. Get an idea of how large of a print you want to make. Are you doing 16x20's or just 8x10's? If it is for the web, then even better, higher ISO is your friend. You can really dial up the ISO without much loss of detail. A sharp photo that is a little grainy is way more interesting than a slightly blurry pic that has lots of detail. Grain is reality. I don't remember if in those cameras you can crop the sensor. If you can, then your FPS will be higher. More frames per sec, the better.
One of the tricks to shooting sports is shooting the persons face. That is really all that matters. No matter what sport, there is really no reason to see the ball. Soccer is a little different, but there is a lot of start stop action, so that helps. Don't waste your time shooting their backs. You have to see the face. Who's kid is that? I dunno, who is number 3? Who cares, can't see his face.
Try and shoot exclusively in vertical format. Ever see a horizontal fat head? Neither have I. Folks that shoot horizontal sports are wasting many pixels.
Another trick is mental. Stop watching the game. Don't watch what is happening as a spectator, you will miss too much. Concentrate on one kid at a time. Watch their facial expressions you will start to see how they act when they are in contact with other kids or the ball. There is a lot of pushing and pulling going on that folks don't realize. Emotion is fun. Shoot the coaches too, they get pretty animated in those team huddles.
Anticipate, shoot a few frames before you think you need to, and a few frames after. The frames after end up used more often than not.
A monopod really will help a ton, saves your back.
Have fun!
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I most often buy used from KEH. I look at B&H's used department as well but they are normally a bit higher. Both have a grading system and I have been more than pleased with their "product as described".
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Originally posted by yaqui View PostAlso, part of the reason you want to shoot at 2.8 is so the background is well out of focus. Shoot super high ISO. You want your shutter speed to be shooting at 1/500 at the very least. Get an idea of how large of a print you want to make. Are you doing 16x20's or just 8x10's? If it is for the web, then even better, higher ISO is your friend. You can really dial up the ISO without much loss of detail. A sharp photo that is a little grainy is way more interesting than a slightly blurry pic that has lots of detail. Grain is reality. I don't remember if in those cameras you can crop the sensor. If you can, then your FPS will be higher. More frames per sec, the better.
One of the tricks to shooting sports is shooting the persons face. That is really all that matters. No matter what sport, there is really no reason to see the ball. Soccer is a little different, but there is a lot of start stop action, so that helps. Don't waste your time shooting their backs. You have to see the face. Who's kid is that? I dunno, who is number 3? Who cares, can't see his face.
Try and shoot exclusively in vertical format. Ever see a horizontal fat head? Neither have I. Folks that shoot horizontal sports are wasting many pixels.
Another trick is mental. Stop watching the game. Don't watch what is happening as a spectator, you will miss too much. Concentrate on one kid at a time. Watch their facial expressions you will start to see how they act when they are in contact with other kids or the ball. There is a lot of pushing and pulling going on that folks don't realize. Emotion is fun. Shoot the coaches too, they get pretty animated in those team huddles.
Anticipate, shoot a few frames before you think you need to, and a few frames after. The frames after end up used more often than not.
A monopod really will help a ton, saves your back.
Have fun!
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