Let’s talk arrows and broad heads

[JakeM]

Thank you. Do you have any recommendations on an arrow? I will just be hunting white tails and pigs with this bow.


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I personally shoot Easton match grade axis right now but ive shot easton FMJs and had no complaints. I hear the Victory arrows are good too. The archery shop will be able to guide you in the right direction too

[enewman]

Let me show you an example. This lady is shooting a 41lb vertex. she is a long draw, 29.5" arrow is 425gr with a G5 striker 125gr broadhead. The blade was sticking out the opposite side. The animal ran 50 yards. This was her third kill with the same arrow. She has done this every year for the last 8 to 10 years.

[enewman]

Broadhead choice is more important than arrow weight. Nothing is more important than having the setup tuned to the best it can be. Except for one thing. Shot placement.

FOC is to help stabilize arrow flight. If you shoot a fixed head, I recommend 15% to 18%. Even a little higher will not hurt.

Mechanical broadhead keep above 10% FOC. No real reason for that number. But it helps with tuning.

[Pushbutton2]

Here's my thoughts.

I shoot GT XT hunters with a grim reaper hit head. Why? It's cheap. Pigs are low to the ground your basically sitting and there ground. The arrows are going to break and the head is going to get damaged. Not always but it's more likely

My white tail set is Gold Tip Kinetic Fierce I like the 150 grain Magnus Stingers. However this year I'm contemplating going to a single bevel

[nimrodtracy]

mechanicals work fine until you hit the heavy shoulder bone of the heavy part of the shoulder blade. The idea is you want the arrow to pass through, so you go through both lungs and out the other side of the animal. On the cheap you could go with a 29 or 30" 2216 Easton aluminum arrow with a 100 to 125 Magnus Black Hornet or the Stinger and you will kill everything you get a good shot on. Or if you want to go with carbon arrows that will cost more you can use the same heads just at least stay close the 500 grains arrow weight.

[kd350]

Let me show you an example. This lady is shooting a 41lb vertex. she is a long draw, 29.5" arrow is 425gr with a G5 striker 125gr broadhead. The blade was sticking out the opposite side. The animal ran 50 yards. This was her third kill with the same arrow. She has done this every year for the last 8 to 10 years.

That’s awesome. I recently listened to a podcast with Tim gillingham that has ladies shooting 38-40 lbs getting pass throughs on elk with mechanicals and light weight arrows

[lovemylegacy]

You asked a loaded question OP. As proven above, you can be successful with many different setups.
I shoot a 365gr arrow…Beman 400 ICS, Wasp 75gr broadhead. 60lb draw Mathews Creed. I have used this arrow setup for a long time. It has been very productive.
Go to a pro shop, they will get you on the right path.

[Codym]

I'd go with the go see a pro shop method. I'm a big KISS guy myself (Keep it simple stupid), and since you're just starting I'd focus more on learning form and shooting the bow a lot. Archery is a giant rabbit hole and you can get lost in the sauce real quick. If you're just wanting to hunt your best bet is keep up with string maintenance and let someone (archery shop) tune your bow and guide you. Also I don't know if you're on ArcheryTalk but there are infinite forums on things like this, Nuts and Bolts is a heck of guy and knows quite a bit. Check out his posts on arrow weights if you really want to dig into it.

This hit the nail on the head. No magic arrow formula is a substitute for good shot placement.

[txtrophy85]

mechanicals work fine until you hit the heavy shoulder bone of the heavy part of the shoulder blade. The idea is you want the arrow to pass through, so you go through both lungs and out the other side of the animal. On the cheap you could go with a 29 or 30" 2216 Easton aluminum arrow with a 100 to 125 Magnus Black Hornet or the Stinger and you will kill everything you get a good shot on. Or if you want to go with carbon arrows that will cost more you can use the same heads just at least stay close the 500 grains arrow weight.

Trick there is to not shoot deer in the heavy shoulder bone.

Sure, we can make bad shots and hit too far forward. But we can also make bad shots and hit too far back. A big mechanical has advantages and a margin for error that a single bevel or 3 blade head does not have on a shot that’s a touch too far back

[Gunnyart]

Trick there is to not shoot deer in the heavy shoulder bone.

Sure, we can make bad shots and hit too far forward. But we can also make bad shots and hit too far back. A big mechanical has advantages and a margin for error that a single bevel or 3 blade head does not have on a shot that’s a touch too far back

so the trick is to shoot deer that don't move.

[buck_wild]

What is this trash ?? This is TBH. We don't talk hunting here, specifically not bowhunting!

[StickFlinger]

What is this trash ?? This is TBH. We don't talk hunting here, specifically not bowhunting!

Good grief this HANDS DOWN! We're here for Rosie, Kylie, and the PACE forum!

[Duckologist]

Trick there is to not shoot deer in the heavy shoulder bone.



Sure, we can make bad shots and hit too far forward. But we can also make bad shots and hit too far back. A big mechanical has advantages and a margin for error that a single bevel or 3 blade head does not have on a shot that’s a touch too far back

Trick here is not to shoot too far back lol. The reality is most folks aren't aiming far enough forward in the V in the 1st place

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[Duckologist]

so the trick is to shoot deer that don't move.

Lol

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[Duckologist]

I'd go with the go see a pro shop method. I'm a big KISS guy myself (Keep it simple stupid), and since you're just starting I'd focus more on learning form and shooting the bow a lot. Archery is a giant rabbit hole and you can get lost in the sauce real quick. If you're just wanting to hunt your best bet is keep up with string maintenance and let someone (archery shop) tune your bow and guide you. Also I don't know if you're on ArcheryTalk but there are infinite forums on things like this, Nuts and Bolts is a heck of guy and knows quite a bit. Check out his posts on arrow weights if you really want to dig into it.

No one can tune a bow for you. Archery shop can put your bow in spec but they cant tune it for you. No two people have the same grip and form.

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