Ragin. Dang this is fixing to hurt. I agree wth you. Yep that hurt.
Now. But bare shaft tuning helps for a lot of things. It lets you see form flaws so you can fix. It lets you see knoc travel vertical and horzontal.
I don't care anymore about focusing on bare shaft hitting with fletched arrows. I just want to have them straight.
Now your saying this is a traditional tune. So is paper tuning. So is walk back tuning. So is group tuning. Most all of the tuning methods we use are traditional tuning methods
So from what your saying we shouldn't be doing any tuning. So what tune method do you suggest.
You did t answer my question. What method should we use.
I'm not going back n forth with you dude like a couple kids. All I said was what I said about bare shaft tuning a compound. The rest of that you made up on your own. [emoji6]
Haha. Your so funny Ragin. The op asked for help. You came on here and trashed the post and gave no help what so ever.
Your argument is bareshaft is for traditional not compound. All tuning methods came from traditional. I think my question is a legit question.
But it s a question that cannot be answered. Because again all tuning methods except cam sync. tuning and a few that is strictly cam settings comes from traditional. This would go against your statement.
I also shoot trad and a compound. Nock high or low basically means nothing. It's all about where the point hits. Don't worry about what the nock does.
I shot trad exclusively for 7 or 8 years and am a big fan of bare shaft tuning for that. The main thing I am tuning is the spine of the arrow. This matters with trad because with most bows the arrow has to paradox around the riser. When I bought a compound this year, I considered bare shaft tuning but it didn't make sense to me in my head, with a compound being center shot and all.
I do think there could be some legitimacy to using it for setting a nocking point though.
I also shoot trad and a compound. Nock high or low basically means nothing. It's all about where the point hits. Don't worry about what the nock does.
I shot trad exclusively for 7 or 8 years and am a big fan of bare shaft tuning for that. The main thing I am tuning is the spine of the arrow. This matters with trad because with most bows the arrow has to paradox around the riser. When I bought a compound this year, I considered bare shaft tuning but it didn't make sense to me in my head, with a compound being center shot and all.
I do think there could be some legitimacy to using it for setting a nocking point though.
It is hard to look at. But bare shaft is a good way to fix knoc travel. Vertical and horzontal. The down fall to bareshaft is if bow is to long or short for you you can have some problems. If your grip is not the best or consistent you can get bad readings. This is not a beginner tuning method. It is an advanced tuning method.
Even though I shoot a compound I still do the traditional method to find that sweet spine for me and bow. I trim arrow.
Haha. Your so funny Ragin. The op asked for help. You came on here and trashed the post and gave no help what so ever.
Your argument is bareshaft is for traditional not compound. All tuning methods came from traditional. I think my question is a legit question.
But it s a question that cannot be answered. Because again all tuning methods except cam sync. tuning and a few that is strictly cam settings comes from traditional. This would go against your statement.
Bareshaft tuning when done correctly yields the most forgiving arrow flight. Pretty simple. The less correction the vanes have to do the better. Once you've bareshaft tuned the vanes have no correcting to do giving you the most efficient arrow flight there is. Bareshaft tuning requires the whole package a balance of correct form, draw length, bow tune, grip, and consistent shot execution. Sure I can take an un tuned bow and shoot great groups with field points. But when I screw my fixed blade broad heads on I will have a nightmare with trying to get them to group with field points. Once o bareshaft tune my bow I have never had to worry about where my broadheads will land in correlation with my field points.
That being said generally people who say it's a waste of time either can't do it or have never done it or a combination of both.
Bareshaft tuning when done correctly yields the most forgiving arrow flight. Pretty simple. The less correction the vanes have to do the better. Once you've bareshaft tuned the vanes have no correcting to do giving you the most efficient arrow flight there is. Bareshaft tuning requires the whole package a balance of correct form, draw length, bow tune, grip, and consistent shot execution. Sure I can take an un tuned bow and shoot great groups with field points. But when I screw my fixed blade broad heads on I will have a nightmare with trying to get them to group with field points. Once o bareshaft tune my bow I have never had to worry about where my broadheads will land in correlation with my field points.
That being said generally people who say it's a waste of time either can't do it or have never done it or a combination of both.
Oh no I can do it. Have done it. I just worry with it on my Trad bows.
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