Tuning method

[enewman]

I look at a lot of post on tuning.

This method called kitchen sink by nuts&bolts is a very good way to tune your bow. It's easy for every one.

You do have to make sure your bow is in spec. AtA, brace height, knoc level( drop away rest) cams in sync.( this is not same as cams in time). I still check tiller. Check bow is making lb when set at max. And if you have yokes you need to set so cam is straight at full draw.

Yoke tuning in my opinion should be done at the end of tuning. Fine adjustment. Not in the beginning.


I also like to check my arrow before I start tuning. I do this by setting my bow and shoot a bare shaft with different tip weights if the best is shot with a tip weight more then I want to use. I know my arrow needs to be longer. If less then I need to shorten my arrow. Doing this will get you closer before tuning starts. This is a tedious. And if your a short range shooter not needed.

I cannot post the kitchen sink method. Hopefully Fergeris will come and post the method for me.

[enewman]

KITCHEN SINK tuning method....

where everything, including the "kitchen sink" will be checked, will be adjusted, fine tuned, if needed.

Start to finish, just follow the steps in order.


The KITCHEN SINK METHOD...

Slightly re-worded.

STEP by STEP Procedure to...

TUNE SIGHT PINS WINDAGE
and
ARROW REST CENTERSHOT
and
SIDEWAYS NOCK TRAVEL ON THE BOWSTRING
and
BOW DL SETTING.....

THE "KITCHEN SINK" METHOD.


I have a combo method that checks:

a) draw length setting on the bow
b) arrow rest centershot position
c) sight pins windage position
d) top cam/top axle levelling (fix/check sideways nock travel).


STEP 1:

So,
hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end,
in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.
Fire a fletched arrow at the string.
Tweak the sight pins windage a skosh left...a skosh right,
until the fletched arrow TOUCHES or even SPLITS the string material.

You should get this result.






Then,
we goto the next stage.

Step back 5 feet,
and try again with a bareshaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.






If you are a RIGHT HANDED shooter
and
the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the string...


STEP 2:

Press your bow
and shorten the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and lengthen the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and fire a bareshaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

the bareshaft point of impact should MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...

repeat the shortening of the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (ADD)
and
repeat the lengthening of the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (REMOVE)

STEP 3:

IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT CHANGE...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT STAYS OFF TO THE RIGHT...

THEN WE HAVE A DRAW LENGTH PROBLEM....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION
cuz your elbow is too far back
cuz your elbow is behind your head
instead of DIRECTLY behind the arrow...in line behind the arrow

so,
when the elbow is BEHIND YOUR HEAD,
your release forearm is pointed OFF TO THE RIGHT,
and
your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways (FAMOUS LEFT PAPER TEAR for right handed shooters)
and
when we have a nock left paper tear,
cuz the bowstring is pulled sideways to the LEFT,
cuz your forearm is pointed off to the right,
then...

the bareshaft goes whereever your forearm is pointed
and the bareshaft misses sideways to the RIGHT of the string.


So if STEP 2 (buss cable leg tuning) has ZERO EFFECT,
we must goto

STEP 4.

SHORTEN the bow DL setting.

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module).

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting less than a complete module replacement...

maybe you need to shorten the bow DL setting only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

HOW do you shorten a bow DL setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

FIND the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and REMOVE twists to INCREASE ATA
and the bow DL will shorten. As you continue to UNTWIST the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow
and the bow DL will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable LONGER, until the bareshaft hits the string, like this...






So,
stay at 5 feet
and fire fletched arrows at the string
and
fire bare shaft arrows at the string
until both fletched and bareshaft hit the string.


When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage)...to adjust
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable (bottom of the buss cable to make LARGE adjustments for point of impact....missing RIGHT by inches)
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable legs (shorten left side leg when missing right of the string by tiny amounts IF YOU ARE a RH shooter).


Soon,
your fletched arrows will be touching the string.

Soon,
your bareshafts will also touch the string.

STEP 5

The final half of MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING.


Goto any CONVENIENT longer distance...anything longer than 5 feet.
Might be 10 feet.
Might be 19 feet.
Might be 14 yards.
Might be 20 yards.
Might be 60 yards.

Of course the LONGER the better,
but even 19 feet is better than nothing.


Fire fletched arrow groups at a bullseye.
ONLY ADJUST THE ARROW REST, when shooting the convenient LONG RANGE distance.
The goal is to get the arrow group CENTERED around the bullseye.

ARROW GROUP missing LEFT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly right.
ARROW GROUP missing RIGHT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly left....like driving a car.

TWEAK THE ARROW REST to get the arrow group CENTERED around the LONG DISTANCE bullseye.
Whatever convenient LONG DISTANCE is available to you.

Then,

STEP 6:

Repeat shooting the fletched arrow at the string at 5 FEET.
We want to touch or SPLIT the string.

Might need to MICRO ADJUSt the sight pins windage...this is a fine tuning adjustment.
SPLIT the string fibers at 5 feet. BE PICKY. EACH adjustment we make, we get a tiny bit CLOSER to perfect.


REPEAT STEP 5

LONG RANGE arrow groups at a bullseye.
MICRO adjust the arrow rest to get the arrow group perfectly CENTERED around your bullseye.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

You get the idea.

EACH cycle of step 6, then step 5...

maybe the first cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/8th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/8th-inch...

and then,
maybe the second cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/16th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/16th-inch...

and then,
maybe the third cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/32nd-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/32nd-inch...

and then,
maybe the 4th cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/64th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/64th-inch...

you get the idea.

You decide how many cycles you want to try.

EACH cycle is a smaller and smaller adjustment.

You decide how TIGHT you want your groups.[/QUOTE]

[enewman]

It had pictures. Sorry they did not copy

[SwampRabbit]

I lost you on step 1... I don't have sight pins... what do I do now?!?!?!?!?

[Fergeris]

I lost you on step 1... I don't have sight pins... what do I do now?!?!?!?!?

There's always gotta be that one person lol

[Fergeris]

See if the pics come up with this one Newman
I have my new KITCHEN SINK tuning method....

where everything, including the "kitchen sink" will be checked, will be adjusted, fine tuned, if needed.

Start to finish, just follow the steps in order.


The KITCHEN SINK METHOD...

Slightly re-worded.

STEP by STEP Procedure to...

TUNE SIGHT PINS WINDAGE
and
ARROW REST CENTERSHOT
and
SIDEWAYS NOCK TRAVEL ON THE BOWSTRING
and
BOW DL SETTING.....

THE "KITCHEN SINK" METHOD.


I have a combo method that checks:

a) draw length setting on the bow
b) arrow rest centershot position
c) sight pins windage position
d) top cam/top axle levelling (fix/check sideways nock travel).


STEP 1:

So,
hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end,
in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.
Fire a fletched arrow at the string.
Tweak the sight pins windage a skosh left...a skosh right,
until the fletched arrow TOUCHES or even SPLITS the string material.

You should get this result.






Then,
we goto the next stage.

Step back 5 feet,
and try again with a bareshaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.






If you are a RIGHT HANDED shooter
and
the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the string...


STEP 2:

Press your bow
and shorten the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and lengthen the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and fire a bareshaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

the bareshaft point of impact should MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...

repeat the shortening of the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (ADD)
and
repeat the lengthening of the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (REMOVE)

STEP 3:

IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT CHANGE...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT STAYS OFF TO THE RIGHT...

THEN WE HAVE A DRAW LENGTH PROBLEM....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION
cuz your elbow is too far back
cuz your elbow is behind your head
instead of DIRECTLY behind the arrow...in line behind the arrow

so,
when the elbow is BEHIND YOUR HEAD,
your release forearm is pointed OFF TO THE RIGHT,
and
your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways (FAMOUS LEFT PAPER TEAR for right handed shooters)
and
when we have a nock left paper tear,
cuz the bowstring is pulled sideways to the LEFT,
cuz your forearm is pointed off to the right,
then...

the bareshaft goes whereever your forearm is pointed
and the bareshaft misses sideways to the RIGHT of the string.


So if STEP 2 (buss cable leg tuning) has ZERO EFFECT,
we must goto

STEP 4.

SHORTEN the bow DL setting.

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module).

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting less than a complete module replacement...

maybe you need to shorten the bow DL setting only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

HOW do you shorten a bow DL setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

FIND the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and REMOVE twists to INCREASE ATA
and the bow DL will shorten. As you continue to UNTWIST the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow
and the bow DL will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable LONGER, until the bareshaft hits the string, like this...






So,
stay at 5 feet
and fire fletched arrows at the string
and
fire bare shaft arrows at the string
until both fletched and bareshaft hit the string.


When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage)...to adjust
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable (bottom of the buss cable to make LARGE adjustments for point of impact....missing RIGHT by inches)
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable legs (shorten left side leg when missing right of the string by tiny amounts IF YOU ARE a RH shooter).


Soon,
your fletched arrows will be touching the string.

Soon,
your bareshafts will also touch the string.

STEP 5

The final half of MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING.


Goto any CONVENIENT longer distance...anything longer than 5 feet.
Might be 10 feet.
Might be 19 feet.
Might be 14 yards.
Might be 20 yards.
Might be 60 yards.

Of course the LONGER the better,
but even 19 feet is better than nothing.


Fire fletched arrow groups at a bullseye.
ONLY ADJUST THE ARROW REST, when shooting the convenient LONG RANGE distance.
The goal is to get the arrow group CENTERED around the bullseye.

ARROW GROUP missing LEFT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly right.
ARROW GROUP missing RIGHT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly left....like driving a car.

TWEAK THE ARROW REST to get the arrow group CENTERED around the LONG DISTANCE bullseye.
Whatever convenient LONG DISTANCE is available to you.

Then,

STEP 6:

Repeat shooting the fletched arrow at the string at 5 FEET.
We want to touch or SPLIT the string.

Might need to MICRO ADJUSt the sight pins windage...this is a fine tuning adjustment.
SPLIT the string fibers at 5 feet. BE PICKY. EACH adjustment we make, we get a tiny bit CLOSER to perfect.


REPEAT STEP 5

LONG RANGE arrow groups at a bullseye.
MICRO adjust the arrow rest to get the arrow group perfectly CENTERED around your bullseye.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

You get the idea.

EACH cycle of step 6, then step 5...

maybe the first cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/8th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/8th-inch...

and then,
maybe the second cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/16th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/16th-inch...

and then,
maybe the third cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/32nd-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/32nd-inch...

and then,
maybe the 4th cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/64th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/64th-inch...

you get the idea.

You decide how many cycles you want to try.

EACH cycle is a smaller and smaller adjustment.

You decide how TIGHT you want your groups

[enewman]

I lost you on step 1... I don't have sight pins... what do I do now?!?!?!?!?

.

I didn't write it. It was done by a Yankee. What do you expect. Haha

Plus I couldn't come up with a smart *** comment. Dang I'm off today. Need more coffee

[hoyt21]

It's just so muc to read

[Fergeris]

It's just so muc to read

Ain't like you got much better to do rite now lol

[SwampRabbit]

There's always gotta be that one person lol

I tried, but couldn't resist.

[Fergeris]

Hey I hear ya I thought it was hilarious

[enewman]

It's just so muc to read

Your doing nothing but laying around. You get a couple of holes put in you and your worthless now. Haha.

[TEXAS 10PT]

I like to play Dueling Banjos with my cables

[popup_menace]

I may be doing some bare shaft tuning in the near future.

[Fergeris]

This has worked for me improved my shooting