Serving string, bow string and dloop questions

[Briar Friar]

I am a new archer and tuning for the first time on my first quality bow. Darton 3800 LH 31" 70 lb.

I finally got my rest and sights set...and my dloop frayed when I moved to 50 yds and I sent one into orbit....hopefully just the pasture. I was gonna restring a d loop but found that the serving string below the d loop was separated and the dloop had been tightened down directly onto the bow string. Should I have the whole nocking area re served?

My bow has 6" limbs. Ive been working on my grip and getting better to where Ive been grouping 3.5" at 40 yds with field points. However, initially I was having string slap on my forearm....and periodically still do...to the point where Ive made it a habit to wear a forearm guard. Ive noticed the string above the guide stop serving and below the nocking serving is a bit frayed. I was thinking of having that area of slap served to reduce wear on my bow string. Itll reduce my speed a tad but would it a bad idea? What problems might I occur if I were to have the bow string served from below the string guide rubber string stop (served for string stop at end of guide rod) all the way to above the nocking point?...roughly 6-7" of serving.

The string guide on the string guide rod is plastic. Ive noticed some fraying on the bus/control cable (sorry, not sure which is which....both frayed slightly) above the guide on both strings. Is this common?

I noticed wax build up on the string guide and strings...so I took some d loop string, wrapped it around the strings and scraped excess wax off the control strings. I also took the guide off the guide rod and cleaned it thoroughly. Is the wax build up common or a sign of excess wax?

I didnt realize how easily the string guide was uninstalled until I did it today. I was fearful that removing the string guide would mess the cables up and didnt know how to wax below the guide. Now Im less fearful, unless after dloop is reinstalled, my bow gets caddywhumpass.

Preemptively, thank you for your time, considerations and input.

[Briar Friar]

D loop serving string separation

[Briar Friar]

Worn bow string from arm slap....above string stop at end of guide rod

[Briar Friar]

Worn strings above string guide

[Briar Friar]

Gooped up string guide and worn strings

[Briar Friar]

Frayed d loop

[wes122984]

if the string is slapping your arm, you are either holding it wrong or your draw length is too long. nothing wrong with serving from the stop all the way to the top of d loop

[popup_menace]

I'd get the knocking area re-served and check your draw length. Sounds too long

[mding]

how tall are you w/ that 31" draw length, or... what's is your wingspan? ratio/calculation: wingspan divided by 2.5... get you closer to appropriate DL

[Briar Friar]

Thanks for the responses gentlemen.

Im am 6'5" tall. My draw length is 31.5"-32". My bow draw length is 31". Ive moticed from shooting other bows and fitting other bows, in store, with a mechanicl release, I could fit comfortably behind a bow with 31" DL. However, that might be the problem. My bow has 6" limbs. I thought when I bought the 3800...worse comes to worse...I could send it back to Darton and have them put on the 7" limbs....effectively making it a 3700. Only difference between the 3800 and 3700 are the limbs....same riser...same cams...however the 3700 with 7" limbs can go to 32" DL....and slightly slower speeds.

My thinking seems contrary to what several of yall are saying...not going longer but potentially shorter in DL.

[Briar Friar]

Ive noticed a considerable change in accuracy and in string slap after I changed my grip from closed with fingers touching grip ( torqued terribly) and now modifed grip of thumb and fore finger touching in front of riser and all others open...riser is pressed between pad of thumb and heel of hand. I believe I have what might be considered a low wrist grip.

Wes...your serving response gives me great confidence. Thank you!

[wes122984]

the reason draw length is usually first thing to check is because when its too long it forces you to extend your bow holding arm straight. when your bow holding arm is straight the string will slap it. it needs to have a slight bend in it and a little relaxed.

since your draw length is good, check your form and make sure your holding with a little bend in your arm. there also was a good grip chart posted recently that may assist but i can't seem to find the link.

[agwrestler]

Your bow arm should be locked, but your elbow/hand/wrist need to rotate 45 degrees out away from the riser. This will rotate your forearm down and clear the string (if your bow DL matches your body DL).

[agwrestler]

Also, the grip should only touch your hand on the thumb side of your lifeline, a crease on your palm shaped like (

[Briar Friar]

Thanks you Wes and AgWrestler. Ill take the time and really purvey my grip and wrist/arm angles. I took my bow in and the shop owner wasnt happy of my request. He didnt explain why...but said the string would still break/fray even though below serving. Ill ask today.

Overlying message and consensus....good grip is fundamental and critical. I had read somewhere that if someones has string slap....theyre doing something wrong. Work in progress.