Cam rotation

[enewman]

When rotating the cam toward the shooter. Is this advance or retard.

I have two charts and they same the opposite of each other.

[DoubleGArchery]

I think if the cams roll forward when you draw the bow,and you are moving the cams back toward the shooter.Then you have retarded the cam,if you are moving away from normal rotation.

[enewman]

See to me if you untwist cable. The cam will rotate toward you. Moving the cam into the draw cycle. Meaning advancing. I don't know.


So if the draw curve takes 6 inches to reach peak. Then if you untwist cable the cam rotates toward you meaning the peak is now reached at 5.5 inches. So it's advanced.

Riser on left string on right. Cam turns clockwise.

Again I've seen it wrote Botha ways

[Rat]

There are three positions in which the cam can be oriented:
1) Advanced
2) Neutral
3) Retarded

Cam position is measured when the cam is in the FULL draw position. A cam is either advanced or retarded based on the neutral position of the cam while at full draw.

So, if your upper cam is slightly advanced it will NOT be rolled all the way into the valley or draw stop. IOW, it will begin to fire first (before the lower cam). The cam, in this advanced position, is rolled slightly toward the back of the bow. This may be where the confusion comes in; the back of the bow is the part that faces AWAY from us when at full draw. It is advanced because it has already started or it is in an advanced starting position.

Think of it like this: If you shoot a half drawn bow, both cams are advanced.

If the top cam is advanced it doesn't mean that the lower cam is retarded; it can still be in a neutral position. The lower cam will be retarded IN RELATION to the UPPER CAM, but not in relation to it's neutral position.

We don't usually retard a cam, we usually advance a cam. For example, if we want to keep the knock high we advance the upper cam slightly; we don't retard the lower cam.

[enewman]

There are three positions in which the cam can be oriented:
1) Advanced
2) Neutral
3) Retarded

Cam position is measured when the cam is in the FULL draw position. A cam is either advanced or retarded based on the neutral position of the cam while at full draw.

So, if your upper cam is slightly advanced it will NOT be rolled all the way into the valley or draw stop. IOW, it will begin to fire first (before the lower cam). The cam, in this advanced position, is rolled slightly toward the back of the bow. This may be where the confusion comes in; the back of the bow is the part that faces AWAY from us when at full draw. It is advanced because it has already started or it is in an advanced starting position.

Think of it like this: If you shoot a half drawn bow, both cams are advanced.

If the top cam is advanced it doesn't mean that the lower cam is retarded; it can still be in a neutral position. The lower cam will be retarded IN RELATION to the UPPER CAM, but not in relation to it's neutral position.

We don't usually retard a cam, we usually advance a cam. For example, if we want to keep the knock high we advance the upper cam slightly; we don't retard the lower cam.

This makes all the since in the world. And I see what your saying. And this goes with the elite chart. This is the cart most say is wrong.

You are the first to talk about looking at it a full draw. This is something me and my hunting buddy have been talking about. If we should be looking at things at rest or draw. Thanks again

[TEXAS 10PT]

This makes all the since in the world. And I see what your saying. And this goes with the elite chart. This is the cart most say is wrong.

You are the first to talk about looking at it a full draw. This is something me and my hunting buddy have been talking about. If we should be looking at things at rest or draw. Thanks again

That's why I think it is essential for all who tune to have a draw board. Need to see where the cams are at FULL draw then make your adjustments to either your cables or string and then put it back on the draw board. I never figured out how shops who sold Bowtechs, Elites, Hoyts etc sent out new bows without ever checking the cam timing. If I remember right you can check single cams at brace (Mathews string going through the center of a hole on the cam) but dual, cam and a half need to be checked at full draw.

[Rat]

That's why I think it is essential for all who tune to have a draw board. Need to see where the cams are at FULL draw then make your adjustments to either your cables or string and then put it back on the draw board. I never figured out how shops who sold Bowtechs, Elites, Hoyts etc sent out new bows without ever checking the cam timing. If I remember right you can check single cams at brace (Mathews string going through the center of a hole on the cam) but dual, cam and a half need to be checked at full draw.

I agree, a draw board makes this much easier. It is possible to do it without a draw board using two people; but it is much easier with a draw board.

Draw boards are easy to build; mine is just a small winch, a 2 x 4, a couple of 1 x 2s and some dowel rod.

A draw board can also help you plot the draw force curve, calculate exact let off, draw length and many other tuning procedures.

[TEXAS 10PT]

I agree, a draw board makes this much easier. It is possible to do it without a draw board using two people; but it is much easier with a draw board.

Draw boards are easy to build; mine is just a small winch, a 2 x 4, a couple of 1 x 2s and some dowel rod.

A draw board can also help you plot the draw force curve, calculate exact let off, draw length and many other tuning procedures.

Totally agree

[enewman]

I'm with you on the draw board. Even on my Mathews. After aligning the cable in the hole I still put it on the draw board. And chech cam sync.

I brought that up a few years back on here. I was told to stop reading Archerytalk. Draw boards are not needed in a good bow shop.

Not going to say who that was.

[TEXAS 10PT]

I'm with you on the draw board. Even on my Mathews. After aligning the cable in the hole I still put it on the draw board. And chech cam sync.

I brought that up a few years back on here. I was told to stop reading Archerytalk. Draw boards are not needed in a good bow shop.

Not going to say who that was.

There is absolutely no other way to tune binary cam bows than with a draw board. If you really want to get it right. IMO

[Rat]

I'm with you on the draw board. Even on my Mathews. After aligning the cable in the hole I still put it on the draw board. And chech cam sync.

I brought that up a few years back on here. I was told to stop reading Archerytalk. Draw boards are not needed in a good bow shop.

Not going to say who that was.

Draw boards have been around a lot longer than archerytalk! I was taught by my bowhunting/archery mentor in 1989/90 how to tune cams on a draw board (dang, I'm getting old)!

To each their own though; it's okay with me if others want to do things the hard way...