Easton tuning guide

[enewman]

The whole post was just to show you that the chart can be miss leading. The arrows are very stiff. Beyond stiff but yet it shows a weak arrow according to the chart. The bow is actually very close on tune. You can see that by the slight lean on the bare shaft. And that lean is mainly do to my grip on that bow and it being to short for me.

Also what that shows is that a very stiff arrow can be tuned and shot with out problems.

If I was to put a 100 gn tip up front. The arrow would never flex being shot from this bow. Extreamly stiff.

And yes I'm showing you that the Easton tuning chart is flawed. When that was written its biggest part was for traditional shooters with fingers. Then they came in and put in compound with release.

It's just like there paper tuning chart that I tried to show on another post. A left/right tear is not a weak/stiff arrow. It's no more then a center shot adjustment. And yet there chart states a weak/stiff indication. This is true for traditional shooters or finger shooters. Not a release aid shooter.

[enewman]

Just to show you what the program states on spine for this bow. The arrow is stiff by .094. If I was to put an 100 gn tip on it it would be stiff by .146. For that arrow to be correct spine for that bow I would have to put a 375 gn tip.

This bow if shooting a 125 gn tip and arrow is 26 in long it requires a .454 spine arrow. Or a 400 spine cut to 28 inches long.

[Bill]

Easton tuning guide

I've been on bowhunting web sites for 20 years and involved in an archery club for 10. This is the first time I have read the Easton guide is wrong. It applies to both string bows and compounds.

If the arrows are as over spined as you say, somebody sold someone the incorrect arrows for their bow.

I found the best way to check spine is with the bare-shaft test in the Easton tuning guide- never with a broadhead.

Shoot straight friend!

[sutherpride59]

it's a guide not a law lol. It is good to remind people that the guide isn't the end all be all to arrow and bow tuning though.

[enewman]

I've been on bowhunting web sites for 20 years and involved in an archery club for 10. This is the first time I have read the Easton guide is wrong. It applies to both string bows and compounds.

If the arrows are as over spined as you say, somebody sold someone the incorrect arrows for their bow.

I found the best way to check spine is with the bare-shaft test in the Easton tuning guide- never with a broadhead.

Shoot straight friend!

You did not read the post very well. I was proving a point. I shot a very stiff arrow to show that the chart can cause people problems.

The Easton chart is not a very good way to test for spine. As I just showed I have a bare shaft shooting with slight left knoc. And a very stiff arrow shooting from almost touching to being right of field point.
I can take a very weak to very stiff arrow and tune it. As you can see. The best way to test for spine is shoot with broad head. As a weak arrow will not group very well.

Also if your bare shaft tuning by the Easton chart. Go and look at what it's for. It is set up for recurve and compound being shot with fingers not release aid.

When you use the method on Easton to bare shaft tune. It leaves the arrow not being the best it can. If you want to bare shaft tune. You do not compare fletch arrows to bare shaft. You just bare shaft shoot.

You also have to index your shafts and have them all flying the same before you tune or you will never get them to tune. Get a bullet hole at 20 yards. Then shout a horizontal line and fix. Then shoot a vertical line and fix. Now fletch your arrows. Then double check your walk back. You will need very little to know more tuning. At this point your broadheads will be grouping as long as the spine is not to weak.
Lot of this is my opinion from my testing. But the Easton chart can screw with you and the bare shaft section is not for compound shooters with release.

[bowhuntntxn]

You did not read the post very well. I was proving a point. I shot a very stiff arrow to show that the chart can cause people problems.

The Easton chart is not a very good way to test for spine. As I just showed I have a bare shaft shooting with slight left knoc. And a very stiff arrow shooting from almost touching to being right of field point.
I can take a very weak to very stiff arrow and tune it. As you can see. The best way to test for spine is shoot with broad head. As a weak arrow will not group very well.

Also if your bare shaft tuning by the Easton chart. Go and look at what it's for. It is set up for recurve and compound being shot with fingers not release aid.

When you use the method on Easton to bare shaft tune. It leaves the arrow not being the best it can. If you want to bare shaft tune. You do not compare fletch arrows to bare shaft. You just bare shaft shoot.

You also have to index your shafts and have them all flying the same before you tune or you will never get them to tune. Get a bullet hole at 20 yards. Then shout a horizontal line and fix. Then shoot a vertical line and fix. Now fletch your arrows. Then double check your walk back. You will need very little to know more tuning. At this point your broadheads will be grouping as long as the spine is not to weak.
Lot of this is my opinion from my testing. But the Easton chart can screw with you and the bare shaft section is not for compound shooters with release.

What you proved is that you did not complete all of the steps to determine if you have a weak shaft. According to you, the rest has not been moved or draw weight has not been reduced.You also have not changed tip weight to affect the arrow.

And if you feel the chart is so flawed, then why not take it up with Easton rather than try to tell everyone here that has been shooting and tuning bows for decades that you know more than them about how to do it?

I have never been steered wrong by this chart since I started in archery in the mid 80s, and have shot nothing but compounds with mechanical release aids. It has worked every time to determine what needed to happen to get good solid grouping with any arrow and bow combination.

And yes, technically you can get any bow to shoot any arrow at any length/draw weight combination, it is just a matter of how much time you want to tinker with it. Even a Genesis bow would shoot this arrow correctly or could be made to show a weak shaft indication. So again what is the point of your thread, other than to say you know more than arrow engineers?

[enewman]

The shaft is not WEAK. It is .094 to the stiff side. I have repeated this. Look at what arrow I'm testing with. From that spec you should no it's not weak. I'm just showing people that you need to be careful when using the Easton chart. You need to read my post. The rest is in center. You are not looking at what I'm saying. Just go test for your self.

Not my bow this has been stated. I'm not going to practice enough with this bow. The grip dose not fit this is why the bare shaft has a slight lean in it.


Let's look at a few things. The Easton chart tells you that an arrow being shot with fingers flexes to the side. With release it flexes up/dn. if this is correct. And it is. Then when you make a paper chart for release shooter. Then a side tear is not a sign of weak or stiff. They tell you how to fix a weak or stiff arrow. Then in the paper chart they tell you to move your rest. First. Then adjust for weak or stiff. Moving your rest is to A line the power stoke of the bow. Nothing else. If you don't understand that then you do not understand tuning.

I brought all this up cause I was at a pro shop the other day. And that is what the did. Shot through paper got a weak reaction. According to Easton chart. Told the customer his arrow was weak. Then moved the rest. And got a hole. Customer walks out happy and knows no different.

We all have been taught. From long time ago about something and we have taken it to be the truth. Just break it down. And you will see.

The Easton tuning is flawed. Maybe I need to email them. But to them what does it matter. Most people in the last few years do not use it.
Read some stuff on Tim from gold tip.

Now some of this I'm posting is hurting some feelings. I'm showing some things that goes against your tuning ability. Not really ability cause I. Very sure you shoot very well. But I am showing that you don't completely understand why or what is happening.

Go out test for your self prove me wrong.
I'm just getting you to think about what is going on.
It's like I have stated before for bare shaft tuning. If you do not index your arrows first it will not work. You can get close. But just like horse shoes close does not win the game

[enewman]

Here is the start of the Easton tuning. It tells you what an arrow is doing with a release aid and what you are suppose to be doing. But then in paper tuning it says a side tear is a sign of weak or stiff. What. You just told me that my arrow is not lines up.

It's how it worded.

[enewman]

Easton bare shaft tuning. Look at it. It tells you for finger shooters. That means not for release shooters.


I didn't write it.

[enewman]

The purpose of bare shaft is to get a bullet hole. Not just grouped with fletch arrows and not worry about the lean. If we where not worried about the lean then why bare shaft tune.

[Bill]

My feelings are not hurt, and you're more serious about the mechanics of arrow flight than myself. I'm interested what they respond to your comments.

Do you suggest a better document to follow when tuning?

Shoot straight.

[bowhuntntxn]

Yes. I believe you can never have to stiff of an arrow. Plus. I'm comparing to the Easton chart. It says sigh of weak arrow. I think it's a draw length and a slight tuning problem.

Doesn't the last sentence in this post discredit everything you are talking about, since the tuning issue was not properly addressed according to the tuning guide?

Until you have exhausted all tuning and draw weight issues you are not getting a true weak/stiff spine indication. You are getting tune issues indicated through the spine of the arrow.

Adjusting tip weight, rest position and draw weight have to happen before you can determine a true spine indication. And surprisingly you will find any spine issues in the process of eliminating tune issues.

Again I say put a 100 grain BH on your original test set up and see what kind of indication you get. Then use the chart and see if it is accurate. Your blanket statement of it being incorrect, while not following the same methods it was written with is not accurate. Your variables are out of the scope of the document.

[enewman]

Doesn't the last sentence in this post discredit everything you are talking about, since the tuning issue was not properly addressed according to the tuning guide?

Until you have exhausted all tuning and draw weight issues you are not getting a true weak/stiff spine indication. You are getting tune issues indicated through the spine of the arrow.

Adjusting tip weight, rest position and draw weight have to happen before you can determine a true spine indication. And surprisingly you will find any spine issues in the process of eliminating tune issues.

Again I say put a 100 grain BH on your original test set up and see what kind of indication you get. Then use the chart and see if it is accurate. Your blanket statement of it being incorrect, while not following the same methods it was written with is not accurate. Your variables are out of the scope of the document.

I will put a 100 tip in it just for you I can even go as high 417 gn field point and see if the arrow will move I believe I have a 350 gn broadheads also. Will have to find it And know is does not discredit it the bow is very close closer then most. Look at the bare shaft.
The only thing I cannot do is the bow being a .5 to short. This cannot be changed.

[bowhuntntxn]

I will put a 100 tip in it just for you I can even go as high 417 gn field point and see if the arrow will move I believe I have a 350 gn broadheads also. Will have to find it And know is does not discredit it the bow is very close closer then most. Look at the bare shaft.
The only thing I cannot do is the bow being a .5 to short. This cannot be changed.

Are you going to move the rest and adjust the DW as suggested? Isn't close like being kind of pregenant? Until you have addressed ALL of the tuning and draw weight issues the shaft indications will be erred our or misleading at best IMO.

[enewman]

My feelings are not hurt, and you're more serious about the mechanics of arrow flight than myself. I'm interested what they respond to your comments.

Do you suggest a better document to follow when tuning?

Shoot straight.

OCD. it's a killer.

I believe if you understand the mechanics. You will be a better tuner. Just like anything. Understand it and you can fix it.

And no on the document. The is a tuning book called nuts and bolts. Allen is hard to follow some times but it is a good read. I still use the Easton even though I dis agree with part of it. I just make lots of notes. Well mostly. Part of it is in my head. Note a good place.



Lot of this as I've stated is opinion of mine. But others have the same thought. Again just got onto this do to what I saw at a pro shop.