Now sighting in: need help

[Unicorn]

Switched from aluminum to carbon arrows recently, so decided to re-sight. Am accurate at 20 & reasonable at 30 yds, but level and consistently right (4-6") from 40 yds. The pins are completely in line, so what gives with my "slice" at 40?

[oktx]

Try moving your rest just a hair left, like 1 mark.

[Unicorn]

Thanks, I'll give that a try; but would that throw my 20 & 30 yf shots left?

[bowhuntntxn]

Does your sight have a level in it? Are you using the level in your sight to make sure you are not canting the bow? Right hits are common at longer distances because the natural tendency is to lean the top of the bow towards the right. This is less evident at closer ranges because the arrow gets there before the drift is noticable.

Also, since your carbon arrows are more than likely a smaller outside diameter than your aluminum arrows, your nock point and rest could need minor adjustments as mentioned above.

[Unicorn]

It doesn't have a spirit level, but I am most likely canting right and shooting a little tired now. I'll trymaking sure I'm level next time.

[Pushbutton2]

Google Walk back tuning.

Here's a pdf I used
Walk back tuning.pdf


this is for paper tuning

[Pushbutton2]

Try this link out

http://arcus.dk/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Walk-back-tunning.-4-sider..pdf

[enewman]

Ok let me make some comments on the paper tare chart push button2 posted.

I believe in paper tuning as one of my methods. But let's look at a few things.

High tare. If you have a high tare and your bow is set correctly. That means center shot set. Knoc set 90 degrees. Cams in sync. Etc. Do not move you noc of rest at this point. Read the last possible cause. It said shorten arrow. That means the arrow with a high tare is possible weak arrow. With out cutting arrow change tip weight or turn bow down. If the tare corrects it self then the problem was a weak arrow. If it does not change them fine out why. At this point moving the knoc may be the correct fix.

Left of right tare. Again look at possible problems. If left tare then again possible weak arrow. Right tare does not talk about arrow stiff or weak. This is an rest adjustment.
Most of the time what I have found for me. If I have my high tare correct by cutting arrow to get correct dynamic spine. Then if I have left or right tare it is mainly do to my center shot being off and arrow is not straight I front of string

I have had a left tare with out a high tare and knowing my arrow was weak. As I shorten the arrow the left tare gets less and moves to a high tare then starts to get better as I cut down the arrow.

This is not a fast process. Move slow and take small cuts. 1/8 inch will make a differance.