Arrow thoughts

[enewman]

So looking at the easton tuning method book. It talks about how a release shooter the arrow flexs up/down not side to side

So with that. Why is it that when you shoot through the paper a left or right tare is a weak arrow.

This is my thoughts. A weak arrow will show a high or low tare. This is after some minor knoc adjustments are made and no change is noticed.

A side tare is an arrow that is being shot that is not in direct line of the power stroke.

Again this is just a thought in my madness of tuning

[rocky]

So looking at the easton tuning method book. It talks about how a release shooter the arrow flexs up/down not side to side

So with that. Why is it that when you shoot through the paper a left or right tare is a weak arrow.

This is my thoughts. A weak arrow will show a high or low tare. This is after some minor knoc adjustments are made and no change is noticed.

A side tare is an arrow that is being shot that is not in direct line of the power stroke.

Again this is just a thought in my madness of tuning

Mostly true.
Other factors that give false spine reads are:
Rest timing
Spring tension (TM style rests or BoDoodle types)
Firm bottomed rests (Hostage)and to a very slight degree WB rests
Up pressure on arrow nock due to using nocksets and no cushion buttons
Nock pinch due to loop.
Over-advanced cams (single) jerking nock point down at shot

[enewman]

Thanks rocky. Thanks to add to my thoughts on tuning.

[rocky]

Another tuning issue I've seen is on Binary bows with draw-stop set way long.
Always gives a high tear, mimicking a weak shaft.

[rocky]

Of course I forgot the most common, Dual cam timing, this includes the Hybrid cam bows.

[enewman]

Of course I forgot the most common, Dual cam timing, this includes the Hybrid cam bows.

yes it does I was playing with that the other day. having top cam hit first. it still falls back if your bow is not set up correctly from the start you will be chasing your tail.

[rocky]

All bow and rest set-up need to be in order before we start evaluating the arrow.

[hoyt21]

With out correct spine. Form. Tuning can drive a archer crazy. I believe it should be done over weeks of small tinkering

[BTLowry]

I know very little about tuning but..........


If you had everything set up just right and the arrow was weak spined, why wouldn't it tear in relation to the spine of the arrow?
I have heard that arrows have a "side" (for lack of proper terminology) that is stiffer, think rotating nocks to get arrows to group

[enewman]

I know very little about tuning but..........


If you had everything set up just right and the arrow was weak spined, why wouldn't it tear in relation to the spine of the arrow?
I have heard that arrows have a "side" (for lack of proper terminology) that is stiffer, think rotating nocks to get arrows to group

This is just my thoughts

An arrow shot with a release flexs up and down. So a weak arrow will flex more and take longer to recover. So,yes if everything is correct. And the arrow is leaving in direct line of the power stroke. Then through the paper it should show as a up/down tare not an side to side tare.

The reason I started thinking about it is I shot an arrow with a175 tip. One with 14 gn insert one with 50 gn insert and one with 100 gn insert. From 6 ft out to 24 ft moving back 3 ft at a time the 14 gn and 50 gn had almost a bullet hole all the way out. The 100 gn has an slight right tare but it has an up tare.

I just thought I would have seen bigger chages between the arrows.

Then I may just be way off in left field,

[rocky]

I know very little about tuning but..........


If you had everything set up just right and the arrow was weak spined, why wouldn't it tear in relation to the spine of the arrow?
I have heard that arrows have a "side" (for lack of proper terminology) that is stiffer, think rotating nocks to get arrows to group

In most cases where it was clearly evident that I had a spine issue, with a weak shaft, I would get a nock-high tear thru paper, and stiff would give me nock-low.
As far as the spine of each individual shaft, most shafts are pretty consistent all the way around,... enough that the inconsistency might show up after finishing shaft and grouping, but probably not in the paper process.
I'm always shooting different shafts thru paper to make sure I'm not trying to read what a bad shaft is telling me.

[Pushbutton2]

I know very little about tuning but..........


If you had everything set up just right and the arrow was weak spined, why wouldn't it tear in relation to the spine of the arrow?
I have heard that arrows have a "side" (for lack of proper terminology) that is stiffer, think rotating nocks to get arrows to group

All carbon arrows have a stiffer side. I was told It's from where the carbon overlaps in the manufacturing process. It is advantageous to us long draw archers to index out arrows. That's where the cock feather/vane is put on the stiff side.
With Goldtip arrows you can see it on the inside.
I looked in my Bemans but couldn't see it.

You can find it with a spine tester.

[cbd10pt]

I know very little about tuning but..........


If you had everything set up just right and the arrow was weak spined, why wouldn't it tear in relation to the spine of the arrow?
I have heard that arrows have a "side" (for lack of proper terminology) that is stiffer, think rotating nocks to get arrows to group

Before you fletch

Install your field points and knocks. then float your arrow s in a bath tub, in about 6" of water. Mark the side that floats up . This becomes your cock feather location, and it places the stiff side down if you shoot cocktail feather up

[enewman]

In most cases where it was clearly evident that I had a spine issue, with a weak shaft, I would get a nock-high tear thru paper, and stiff would give me nock-low.
As far as the spine of each individual shaft, most shafts are pretty consistent all the way around,... enough that the inconsistency might show up after finishing shaft and grouping, but probably not in the paper process.
I'm always shooting different shafts thru paper to make sure I'm not trying to read what a bad shaft is telling me.

Ok rocky. I know you have been tuning bows a long time. I feel I'm getting closer to an level of tuning for me. No where close to you. But I'm trying. Haha All through lots of testing in the last year.

So you are answering my question that I have came up with as of how a weak/stiff arrow tares through paper. So why do all paper charts show weak or stiff an side tare. The second question is why do very people talk about it.

It seems to me we have a lot of people on here. Some i consider to be friends. Like me we like to help as much as we can. But I'm coming to an conclusion that a lot of info we give. I've given is not totally correct. We still get a good end result mostly.
The more I test the more I see that the easton tuning chart that I have used has miss information.

Again this is just my opinion and I may be looking at it wrong. Been known to do that

[rocky]

Ok rocky. I know you have been tuning bows a long time. I feel I'm getting closer to an level of tuning for me. No where close to you. But I'm trying. Haha All through lots of testing in the last year.

So you are answering my question that I have came up with as of how a weak/stiff arrow tares through paper. So why do all paper charts show weak or stiff an side tare. The second question is why do very people talk about it.

It seems to me we have a lot of people on here. Some i consider to be friends. Like me we like to help as much as we can. But I'm coming to an conclusion that a lot of info we give. I've given is not totally correct. We still get a good end result mostly.
The more I test the more I see that the easton tuning chart that I have used has miss information.

Again this is just my opinion and I may be looking at it wrong. Been known to do that

We can only pass on conclusions we've come to after seeing recurring issues.
Some are wrong, even in my case, simply because a lack of experience with any one particular issue.
In my case, I have trouble with Hoyt bows, because I don't see enough with same problems.
Fortunately, in my case, Bowtech and most Mathews bows leave my shop in pretty good tune and shoot well.
These I've seen tons of.
I have never gone into the depths on arrows that you have, as I tend to stay in the middle of the road for speed and weight.
Typical weights, (+/- 400 grains), and FOC around 11-12 % are more common and serve most bowhunters well.