Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Not getting better

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    60 yards is totally doable with todays equipment. Yeah a lot can happen but the theory is practice at 60 and 30 is a chip shot. Hand torque is over hyped imo, i have tried doing CRAZY stuff with my hand trying to get it to have MAJOR effect and can't make the effect ppl talk about.

    Top things that are likely culprits,

    1. Punching the release, that arrow went right where it was supposed to, but you punched/slapped the trigger and the pin wasn't where you thought it was.

    2. flinching at the shot, you anticipate the release of the weight on your arm. You drop the bow, or relax your arm/shoulder. I see this issue more than any. You have to focus on following through and not expecting the shot. Think of your draw length, a little movement with that anchor hand translates to a big change in the way the arrow goes. (after further thought I shoulda put this as one, it is SOOO common, people don't catch themselves not following through) or sometimes (seen it once) the opposite, they try to "let the bow roll forward" and are actually pulling it down pre maturely. to me its looks like the flinch on the shot. Had a buddy who was bad about dropping the bow trying to watch the shot. So he would pull his head away right as he shot. Was worse when he shot luminocks...

    3. Anchor point... anchor point, anchor point, doesn't really matter where it is as long as it is comfortable, as long as it is ALWAYS the same. Its like a free throw, same motion every time

    The flinch can be helped with a less weight on the pull, you are less focused on, "HOLY CR@P I GOTTA SHOOT THIS THING BEFORE I BLOW UP MY ARM...
    Last edited by catslayer; 08-19-2014, 11:49 AM.

    Comment


      #17
      One other thing I should add. If stretch isn't the problem. Last year I didn't shoot much during the summer. I whipped out by bow and shot a few and did alright. Then all of a sudden my groups were all over the place. Couldn't figure out why. Well long story short, my anchor floated away from what I had been doing. I had to go back and practice hitting my consistent anchor (for me, tip of nose on string, knuckle under ear, etc.) What I had been doing was putting the string on the side of my nose... which wasn't consistent from draw to draw.

      Comment


        #18
        RELAX!!!!!!!!!!!! don't put so much pressure on yourself it's a hobby, have fun and go shoot. Remember to breath and relax your hand all the way through the shot and see the arrow hit it's mark. Oh and shoot a Matthews couldn't resist.

        Comment


          #19
          Yes get some lessons. There could be any number of problems with your form and you won't see it or feel it until someone shows you. If you are grouping well at 35-40 yards, there is nothing wrong with your bow.
          You could be 'chasing your pin', dropping your arm, not staying straight through your draw arm elbow, etc. All these things don't become apparent until you shoot the longer distances. also, what lighting conditions are you shooting in? Shady areas cause your peep and sight housing to fit better whereas bright sunlight conditions will cause your peep to appear smaller and it becomes more difficult to center it, especially over longer distances, so your pattern widens out.

          If you are in North Texas, and want some help on Sunday, my husband and I will be at the Irving Bowhunters club shoot (see the 3D forum FMI). You can come by and we can help you some.
          Last edited by Pistol; 08-19-2014, 12:07 PM.

          Comment


            #20
            Good stuff from all of you. I will try and tune it again. I didn't expect the string to change much. But I should have anticipated it.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Pistol View Post
              if you are grouping well at 35-40 yards, there is nothing wrong with your bow.
              That is the thing. Started off pretty good but even at 30 the groups are getting worse not better. I am going to retune it and check the rest.

              Comment


                #22
                Too often all the attention is on anchor. Anchor is very important, but nothing is ever said about sight picture.
                A consistant anchor's primary purpose is to make it easy to achieve the same sight picture on every shot.
                There is a large difference on the sight between 30 and 60yds. Be it ever so slight, your anchor has to change slightly to shoot longer distances, however, the sight picture has to remain the same. All tournament archers will tell you, you have to aquire the sight picture and maintain it during the shot sequence.
                You torque the bow every time you draw it. The key is to apply torque the same on every shot. Torquing the bow differently on a shot usually will give you inconsistant left and right arrows.
                To help with sight picture when you shoot at longer yardages, you should set your peep height when at 40 to 45 yards. When you set your peep height with your sight on 20 yards, you will have to make a larger change in your anchor point to shoot at 60 yards.
                This will cause your sight picture to change during the shot. Get at 40yds and draw with a normal anchor and the eyes closed, check your sight picture. Then repeat at 60 and 20 yards.

                Comment


                  #23
                  My problems when I had my strings changed
                  1) bow wasn't tuned when I got it.
                  2) floating anchor
                  3) peep was served in too low
                  4) my form was wrong
                  5) fixed form, had to learn to relearn my preshot routine
                  6) I haven't walk back tuned my bow yet. I haven't shot more than 30 yards yet

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Pushbutton2 View Post
                    My problems when I had my strings changed
                    1) bow wasn't tuned when I got it.
                    2) floating anchor
                    3) peep was served in too low
                    4) my form was wrong
                    5) fixed form, had to learn to relearn my preshot routine
                    6) I haven't walk back tuned my bow yet. I haven't shot more than 30 yards yet
                    Pretty sure only one of the things listed is needed by a shop after a string change. The rest are the Indian. And honestly, the shop could have paper tuned it, and all the form issues made it look like it wasn't.

                    But as long as you got it lined out, that is all that matters.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by bowhuntntxn View Post
                      Pretty sure only one of the things listed is needed by a shop after a string change. The rest are the Indian. And honestly, the shop could have paper tuned it, and all the form issues made it look like it wasn't.



                      But as long as you got it lined out, that is all that matters.

                      This is my first bow ever.

                      I bought it used from a friend of a friend.

                      They set my DL for me and some shooting instructions.

                      I shot it a bunch and could consistently put 4 of 5 arrows touching a roof tack.

                      Several months later I wanted new strings. They replaced them for me.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        All the technique suggestions but paper tune isn't even close to tune.

                        Walk back
                        Third axis on sight
                        Broad head tune

                        My experience which is marginal, I would shoot long distance trying to figure out what was wrong. Arrow here, there, everywhere.

                        Once I understood how to tune and was 100% confident I found my groups long range were drastically improved. If it went low left I could diagnose why ..... It reflected something I had done during shot.

                        Never understood this until I truly had a tuned bow. A walk back proved to me that there is most likely drift unless I've addressed it.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I shot more this morning and focused on some of the form tips. Even though the bow it sighted in at 10-20, to the best of my ability at least, it still seems to be shooting erratic at 30 plus. I am almost sure it is a tuning problem or a problem with the arrow rest.

                          I'm going to work on tuning it some more. Headed to NM tomorrow to try and arrow an antelope and I wish I had more confidence. I should have time around camp to work on this. Maybe I can get it figured out before Saturday.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Shallowater View Post
                            I shot more this morning and focused on some of the form tips. Even though the bow it sighted in at 10-20, to the best of my ability at least, it still seems to be shooting erratic at 30 plus. I am almost sure it is a tuning problem or a problem with the arrow rest.

                            I'm going to work on tuning it some more. Headed to NM tomorrow to try and arrow an antelope and I wish I had more confidence. I should have time around camp to work on this. Maybe I can get it figured out before Saturday.
                            If going after an antelope, I would probably find a shop and have them tune it and get that confidence back. Going to be tough to get within 20 yards of a goat....

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I could fix you, but unfortunately not before Saturday...

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by stryker93 View Post
                                At longer distances, any small amount of torque or movement with be magnified. The thing that helped me the most was try to hold the pin on the target until the arrow hit the target. That coupled with allowing my pin to float on the spot I wanted to hit.
                                X2

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X