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Finding the correct arrow spine. (Sorry long)

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    Finding the correct arrow spine. (Sorry long)

    How do you know if you have the correct spines arrow.

    First let me say how I got to this point

    I went on a ram hunt. My goal was to shoot at a long distance. So I build a arrow velocity 340 spine. I want a high foc. I put a 100 gn insert install a 125 tip and I got a foc around 20. sight in. Paper tune and start shooting. I'm okay out to 80 yards not the best but okay. Go on a hunt got the ram at 88 yards. Not the best shot I have made. I did go get him, and he's in the freezer.

    Now I'm looking at my set up. Do some reading of dr ashby on how to find correct spine on a high foc.. Found out that my arrows where to weak.

    My mistake was setting up this type of arrow just like I have always done. Build it. Eye ball center shot,paper tune and go

    So starting over, first find center shot. Lots of different methods. I measured from limbs to center of cam and lined up. Doing this the center shot is not lined up with the center of riser. But it is directly I front of cams

    Got my arrow. Shot fletch at 5 ft. Got my sight Lind up. Shot bare shaft good to go. Moved back 10 yards shoots to the right and knoc leans left. I adjusted lbs and tip weights only. To weak to straighten out with out moving the rest.

    Now I get a 300 spine put 100 gn insert and tip start shooting. Still weak. I start cutting arrow down till I got to what I like to shoot 26.5. The hole time I'm cutting arrows it's moving left and straightening up.

    I now have bare shaft arrows with out moving my rest from center shot. Shooting straight at 20 yards. I would now say my arrow is spined correctly for my bow.

    Arrow is 26.5 long. Total weight is 481. With a 25 foc. Bare shaft. 245 gns of that arrow are in the tip

    Next out to 30 plus
    Last edited by enewman; 05-21-2014, 09:19 PM.

    #2
    Pinwheel On Target software and plug in the dynamics of what you want to use and go from there. I have always gone to the stiffer side on spine, except for the ones I am shooting now and I just put these together because I had 2 dozen laying around. That is bow I picked the Nitro Stingers and spine for my Cape Buff arrows, that and info from some other sites and help from other folks and just doing some reading and investigating.
    Also, because I tend to go stiff on the spine, I have not had any trouble getting them to tune and shoot BH's, but I have not made huge jumps in arrow weight like you have, except for the ones I shoot now, but I got lucky on those.
    Last edited by Mudslinger; 05-22-2014, 05:54 AM.

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      #3
      Mudslinger
      I also use the programs, but that is still just a starting point.

      Doing the dr ashby high foc method just makes sure my arrow is tuned to the bow. Not bow to arrow like most are tuned.

      It was pointed out to me that I'm limited to shooting that arrow only, but I'm okay with that.

      I think for people like you and me with the high foc this method seem to work. For the normal shooter. This is more work then needs to be done

      This does make sure your arrow is correctly spined. The paper tune method does not. I'm thinking once I get the bare shafts shooting out at what ever yardage I decide is a good stoping point(60yards) I bet their will be very little adjustment needed on walk back.

      My only draw back is the wind will not stop blowing, and I can only get 20 yard shot in my shop.
      For some reason my wife will not let me add on so I could get to 50 yard shot. She's kind of one sided
      Last edited by enewman; 05-22-2014, 09:45 AM.

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        #4
        Buy a Carnivore .250 spine and go huntin.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Ragin' View Post
          Buy a Carnivore .250 spine and go huntin.
          I'll do that but indeed to barrow one of them new broadheads you just got

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            #6
            Originally posted by enewman View Post
            Mudslinger
            I also use the programs, but that is still just a starting point.

            Doing the dr ashby high foc method just makes sure my arrow is tuned to the bow. Not bow to arrow like most are tuned.

            It was pointed out to me that I'm limited to shooting that arrow only, but I'm okay with that.
            I've been tuning my arrows to the bow for my entire archery life (more than 50 years) and am not aware of any such restriction. I've always been able to tune multiple and vastly different arrow/point combinations for any bow I've owned.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mike Javi Cooper View Post
              I've been tuning my arrows to the bow for my entire archery life (more than 50 years) and am not aware of any such restriction. I've always been able to tune multiple and vastly different arrow/point combinations for any bow I've owned.
              I think what the person was telling me was once I tune that arrow. I would not be able to just shoot another arrow with out retuning

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