Heli-m Tuning questions

[glpoe1]

I'm seeing your arrow rest is to high. Your arrow should cover the berger button hole when viewed from the side. Move your rest down, reset your knock point, adjust your peep to your eye and make sure you adjust your arrow about 13/16" from the sight window (a good place to start). When I saw you were shooting 340 spine arrows I thought you might be a tad over spined but my Helim shoots pretty strong at 60# so I bet your good on arrows. At 29 1/2" DL you may be a tad long on your arrus but it probably doesn't hurt. Also just for peace of mind, get some spray foot powder and spray your cable and shelf to make sure your not getting any vane contact, OH Yes, and get rid of WB and get you a drop away. JKING, WB guys.

ALSO, form and release has a lot to do with arrow flight as well.

[Quackedup]

I'm seeing your arrow rest is to high. Your arrow should cover the berger button hole when viewed from the side. Move your rest down, reset your knock point, adjust your peep to your eye and make sure you adjust your arrow about 13/16" from the sight window (a good place to start). When I saw you were shooting 340 spine arrows I thought you might be a tad over spined but my Helim shoots pretty strong at 60# so I bet your good on arrows. At 29 1/2" DL you may be a tad long on your arrus but it probably doesn't hurt. Also just for peace of mind, get some spray foot powder and spray your cable and shelf to make sure your not getting any vane contact, OH Yes, and get rid of WB and get you a drop away. JKING, WB guys.

ALSO, form and release has a lot to do with arrow flight as well.

This is solid advice. Also make sure the biscuit is parallel to the riser. If it isn't it can cause problems. I think 3/4 inch tear is too far off for me to be happy with. I usually get it as close to a bullet hole as I can, and have never left one that the hole wasn't within the cross of the vanes.

[cuttingedge]

The WB, is a good rest, but it is in full contact with the arrow until it leaves the bow, making form and grip pretty important.

I agree that the rest is too high, and/or the nocking point is too low. Your cam timing could be off due to string stretch or creep, which would cause your nocking point to change.

13/16" from the riser to the center of the arrow is a good starting point. However, depending on how the yokes are twisted this could vary some. We usually set the arrow at 13/16" and yoke tune the center shot.

Maybe a dumb question, but are you positioning your arrows cock vane up? If the cock vane passes through the stiff bristles on the bottom of the whisker biscuit, it would cause some pretty wicked arrow kick.

[05 gray ghost]

Make sure that if you are shooting with one eye closed, that it stays closed until the arrow hits the target. If your eyes are close to the same in dominance, when you open the other eye it will look like your arrow is flying all over the place.

This happened to me, but it may not be the same for you.

Good luck.

[old killer]

A high tear can indicate a weak spine. Reset the rest and nock point. Then take 1.5 turn off both limbs and shoot through paper. If it is better your arrows are weak. If it is worse they are stiff. Then do at 6 steps, this is typically the distance at which an arrow that is fishtailing will be the farthest out.
As stated above, the wb can cause problems if you do anything with the bow hand before the arrow passes the rest.

[txdukklr]

here's what i'd do:

1. cock vane up on whisker biscuit
2. Get the nock and rest back in line, it looks off the arrow should be a bit more in the berger. I'm going to be this is your problem. low tear is high nocking point
3. then I'd reduce weight because low tear is also sign of a weak arrow

you can easily check your cam tuning the string should run through the tuning hole on the cam. If it is don't worry about that it's either your rest/nock or spine.