Flying Arrow Toxic

[ElGatoBandito]

I was wondering if anybody has had any experince (good or bad) with these. I saw them, and as mean as they look, it seems to me that they need a lot of thump behind them to get them to penetrate well. I found them on the Northwood Archery Youtube channel, and saw that they were devastating to the Ballistics gel.

[Mudslinger]

Almost anything devastates ballistic gel. And yes it will take some thump.

[ElGatoBandito]

Well... I'm hoping by the time that I get my wheeled bow, I'll be pulling 70 pounds, plus I got a 32" draw length... I imagine I can punch it through a big deer. I'm seriously considering them, down the road.

[ETABNT]

Got a few guys that have shot some deer with them and said they did not like them. No pass thru. they basically just punch a hole. they dont really cut. Great for shooting hollow body animals like Turkeys but not great on animals with fur and fat.

just my opinion.

[ElGatoBandito]

Got a few guys that have shot some deer with them and said they did not like them. No pass thru. they basically just punch a hole. they dont really cut. Great for shooting hollow body animals like Turkeys but not great on animals with fur and fat.

just my opinion.

Do you have the arrow weight/ rough bow speed on those guys?

I've been looking through alot of online reviews and it seems to be a love/hate relationship with these. I'm wondering if you have to be over a certain threshold to get them to penetrate effectively. I'm really interested cause they seem to have the capability to do massive damage, but I don't want something to underpenetrate. I may start testing broadheads on pigs before I start hunting deer with them, but these are awfully expensive to just buy to test.

[ElGatoBandito]

Got a few guys that have shot some deer with them and said they did not like them. No pass thru. they basically just punch a hole. they dont really cut. Great for shooting hollow body animals like Turkeys but not great on animals with fur and fat.

just my opinion.

Oh, and Thank you!
I really need real person input, and bad is better than good because that means I know where It can go wrong, and If I'm willing to deal with it.

[Mudslinger]

70#'s with a 32" draw and moderately heavy arrows will probably work with these heads. Not sure I would shoot them with a light arrow set up.

[ElGatoBandito]

70#'s with a 32" draw and moderately heavy arrows will probably work with these heads. Not sure I would shoot them with a light arrow set up.

Could you define moderately heavy?
I'm still learning what is the normal arrow weights are, I think the very lightest I could get my arrows to was 405 grains using gold tip's build your own arrow set up. Would that qualify as moderately heavy?

[texasrazor]

My son shot a buck Christmas day afternoon. 65# shooting easton FMJ's, 24yd shot.
Got clean pass thru double lung, deer went 50 yds and bedded took a little while to die.
Blades were destroyed by ribs. I wasnt real impressed with wound channel. he did use one as a practice head and they do fly well, exactly like his field points out to 40 yds.

[trey.c]

Yes they do fly well..I killed a 9pt with them(my biggest bow deer)...complete pass through but very little blood trail..I didnt like that..he ran about 40 yards..I haven't killed a pig with them yet so that's going to be my next test with them!

[Mudslinger]

I would say a minimum 6 grains of arrow weight per pound of pull for a hunting set up, so 420 grains would be average, 7 grains per pound of pull would be moderately heavy, 490 grains and 8 grains per pound of pull would be heavy, 560 grains. Your choice and just my opinions. Most people will say 6 for hunting with most bow companies warranties being no less than 5 grains for the warranty to be in effect.

[ElGatoBandito]

I would say a minimum 6 grains of arrow weight per pound of pull for a hunting set up, so 420 grains would be average, 7 grains per pound of pull would be moderately heavy, 490 grains and 8 grains per pound of pull would be heavy, 560 grains. Your choice and just my opinions. Most people will say 6 for hunting with most bow companies warranties being no less than 5 grains for the warranty to be in effect.

So most people base their arrow weight off of their draw weight? I guess I've been going about this all wrong, I've been trying to get 300 spined arrows and find them in the weight class I wanted. I've been playing with the Gold tip calculator and have been working with the "velocity" arrows trying to get speed up.

Why do most people base their arrow weight off of draw weight? All the bows exert different amounts of force upon the arrow, even with identical draw weight and length... I'm sort of confused right now.

[Mudslinger]

Bow warranties are based on the GPP of the finished arrow vs draw weight. Thus a minimum of 5 GPP of finished arrow weight for the warranties. High Country is the only mfg to warranty their bows to 3GPP finished arrow weight. 60#'s would be 300 grains, 70#'s would be 350 grains. This is also the weights used for IBO comparisons, 30" draw, 70#'s and a 350 grain arrow. The force exerted on an arrow comes mostly from the design of the cams. Also, the lighter the arrow, the less energy that arrow will absorb on the shot. The energy that is not absorbed by the arrow will go into noise and vibration. I would say that the spine of the arrow is the most important aspect in starting. The majority of the time you will end up with enough arrow weight for hunting when you get the right spine. What you are doing is still fine, you know your arrow spine and are trying to find an arrow in a weight class that you want. I am doing the same thing, but in a direction of weight, heavier on a finished shaft. Where mines get more complicated is with a lot more weight up front for a high FOC, spine really changes and I am very limited in my arrow choices. Keep doing what you are doing, you will be fine.

[ElGatoBandito]

Bow warranties are based on the GPP of the finished arrow vs draw weight. Thus a minimum of 5 GPP of finished arrow weight for the warranties. High Country is the only mfg to warranty their bows to 3GPP finished arrow weight. 60#'s would be 300 grains, 70#'s would be 350 grains. This is also the weights used for IBO comparisons, 30" draw, 70#'s and a 350 grain arrow. The force exerted on an arrow comes mostly from the design of the cams. Also, the lighter the arrow, the less energy that arrow will absorb on the shot. The energy that is not absorbed by the arrow will go into noise and vibration. I would say that the spine of the arrow is the most important aspect in starting. The majority of the time you will end up with enough arrow weight for hunting when you get the right spine. What you are doing is still fine, you know your arrow spine and are trying to find an arrow in a weight class that you want. I am doing the same thing, but in a direction of weight, heavier on a finished shaft. Where mines get more complicated is with a lot more weight up front for a high FOC, spine really changes and I am very limited in my arrow choices. Keep doing what you are doing, you will be fine.

Ok. You had me slightly panicking there. I didn't think about the vibration/noise aspect though. So as a general rule of thumb (I understand that it doesn't happen all the time) the heavier the arrow, the quieter the bow will shoot due to less energy going into the bow itself?
I'm trying to get a setup where it will drop ~4" to 30 yards, how fast should I get my arrow going at the beginning to get that performance? Is that unreasonable?

[Mudslinger]

At 70#'s with a 410 grain arrow and only a 29" draw I was getting 314 fps out of my set up. With your 32" draw you cold see 25 to 30 fps over the 314. 10 fps increase per inch of draw on average. You could probably shoot a 450 grain arrow with that 32" draw and still be smoking fast.